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February 26, 2021.  Issue #5,287.
  Wishing you and yours a happy, safe and RV-filled weekend.
  Need a Contract SIC?  Use Me!

AIRWORTHY! ...jcarne

Well, only one more big milestone left I suppose! Followed by mass quantities of fun I hope!

The DAR inspection went great! I had everything ready for him and a lot of the paper work was taken care of before he even got there. His help in dealing with making changes in AWC was big!

Tim Mikus did a great inspection on the plane and the 2.5 hours he was there was quite a joy actually; had some great conversation during the process. He said the work looked great and the only thing he found was that there needed to be labels on the throttle, prop, and mixture controls. No biggy to add.

It sure was a rough journey to get to this point at times but I'm glad that one is behind me now! Next up, transition training in a little over a week and then first flight!  --->


The sky was on fire last night ...AX-O

Took Dilemma out yesterday. Parked the airplane and went to grab the towbar. Looked back at the plane and had one of those OMG moments.


Almost ready for airplane noises! ...Scott 14A

Fuse is finished. Just in time to find out about the sweat snafu for some of the QB wings. Hopefully not mine since i was planning to start assembling them next month.


Prostate Surgery and Building On... or derailed?

Does anyone know how soon after prostate surgery (radical prostatectomy via da Vinci robot) it is possible to resume RV building?

The generic medical advice says it is OK to drive after about 1 week; return to light duties after 2-3 weeks; and avoid strenuous activity for 6 weeks. That would seem to imply that "building on" could resume after 3-6 weeks, and so the project would not need to be mothballed long term. Is that realistic? I would appreciate hearing advice from anyone who has "been there", which could be quite a few of us VAF fellas (based on the statistics).  --->


More RV-4 Action Shots


Eleven Hours of Night in 1.2 Hours.

61.159 (paragraph b) "A person who has performed at least 20 night takeoffs and landings to a full stop may substitute each additional night takeoff and landing to a full stop for 1 hour of night flight time to satisfy the requirements of paragraph (a)(2) of this section; however, not more than 25 hours of night flight time may be credited in this manner."

Per the above, I logged 11 hours of night Wednesday evening, and each landing got better as the night went on (movie here doesn't show the stops, but they were there).  Shared the pattern with a couple other planes, so a couple of 360s got thrown in for spacing.  Keeping the power in a little until touchdown helped lessen the bounces.  I'm currently using the original fog/landing lights from 18 years ago (LED setup enroute).  Got a pic of the 'Before' to compare with 'After' down the road.  Current rig just barely comfortable at my home strip 52F (KAFW is a light farm - might as well have been noon).

So, I'm night current and 11 hours closer to the 100 required for the ATP requirement.  Goal-oriented baby steps... ;^)



February 25, 2021.  Issue #5,286.
  Need a Contract SIC?  Use Me!

RV-4 Action Shots ...it begins

(smokyray) Here's my post of my RV4 in action way back when over the ID backcountry taken by my good friend and F16 squadron bro "Chuck" from his dialed in Cessna 180K.  Chuck texted it to me last week when we swapped low temp comparisons between TX and where he lives, AK....We agreed, No comparison...

(Scott Hersha) A little formation action in my RV4 with Bruce Brielmaier, and Larry (Skater) Wolf:


AN924-6D vs AN818-6D Torque Values

Hello All,

I'm installing fuselage fuel lines and looking for some clarity on torque values for the fittings. Specifically I'm looking for torque values for both the AN924-6D jam nut on the AN833-6D 90-degree elbow and the AN818-6D B-nut on the 3/8" flared tubing.

In the Standard Aircraft Handbook, p.203, Table 7-19, it specifies for aluminum alloy tubing, bolt fitting or nut a torque of 75-125 in/lbs for any -6 size hardware. This torque value would seem to apply to ALL aluminum -6D sized hardware

However, in AC43.13, Ch 9 Hydraulic Systems, Table 9-2 it specifically mentions AN818 nuts. It specifies for aluminum alloy tubing a torque of 110-130 in/lbs for a -6D nut. The lower range is significantly higher then the 75-125 in/lbs value in the Standard Aircraft Handbook.

Can anyone shed some light on the correct values for each type of -6D nut? And given the wide torque range each reference gives what initial torque value should I go for on each nut? Lower range? Middle?

Thanks for your time and advice.



Nice Joke ...Vlad

(regarding mis-dimpled hole - the kind we've all made)  Back in the days when I was building Vans included a special rivet for mishaps like that. You had to sift through thousands of them to find it though... Nowadays, sorry you have to buy the whole new empennage kit...<g>


Cole Melby is Happy

In love.  I've been able to fly my new-to-me 6a now for about 16 hours and it is an absolute blast to fly. My drools over the last several years wanting one were well-founded!

A friend and I flew to Half Moon Bay and back yesterday in perfect weather. It was my first chance at seeing the sea level performance (150hp fp cruise prop) and I was airborne at 60kts in roughly 700ft at around 1500lbs. That was by far the most fun takeoff I've ever had. Too bad I don't get quite the same performance at 4700ft lol.


Recent Additions to Mothership First Flight Section


Elevators Getting Fitted ...Kentlik 7A Rebirthing

I haven't put her on the gear yet, I am vertically challenged and it is way easier to work on her when she is lower...



February 24, 2021.  Issue #5,285.
  Need a Contract SIC?  Use Me!

Gear leg fairings and support ...welcome new guy Gary (first post)

Hi Folks,
Old time -6 here (s/n 38) first batch out of the factory. I'm flying after decades of building and stuff. I've got stiffeners on the gear legs and fiberglass over that. No aluminum. Struggling to keep the leg fairing (not end but whole assembly) from twisting and moving up and down the leg. Might be too stiff, not sure. I'm looking for some good pictures of what you have, how to keep things from moving up and down the steel legs, etc. I've got original made end fairing too. After landing the whole gear leg fairing will shift up/down/twist.
Thanks for you assistance.
Gary N38GK NH

(Aden Rich) There is an aluminum "Tee" that is riveted to the fairing and has a flange that sticks out and that is what get's hose clamped to the gear leg itself. This is at the top. THen when you get the fairings aligned with the aircraft, you are supposed to put some "Great Stuff" foam up inside the fairing at each end. Only about 2" on each end should be enough to hold it in place. If you gear leg is primed and painted, or powder coated, you don't have to worry about moisture corrosion under the foam. Don't put too much foam in there or it won't allow the leg fairing to flex and it break your fairing.

I put stiffners on my gear legs and wrapped with fiberglass. On the larger engine RV's it helps with gear leg splaying out and shimmy. Also keeps the intersection fairing from being shaken apart.

(fixnflyguy) My fiberglass fairings over stiffeners on my -4 migrated downward for no apparent reason, and after re-setting them a few times I discovered the AFT upper corner of the fairing (where the hinge runs) was contacting the fuselage when the gear flexed AFT. it moves WAY more than you can imagine, often just taxiing. I trimmed mine at an angle from the gear leg down and AFT so it just barely was in the cuff fairing and the problem stopped.


Help needed... who has that skybolt tool?

Hi Together,

.... it came out that for my specific skybolt setup a special tool is needed. there's no other way to adjust the in-depth of the receptacles. problem is that this tool (that came with the fasteners kit ordered in 2010) was lost in the chaos of past 11 years.

with that kind of problems you usually just contact the supplier and let them send you a new tool. but skybolt tells me that it's not available anymore. they say just order a new set and install it. for several reasons i don't want to go that route.

so my last hope is that someone here with the same setup would borrow that tool to me. the idea is to try to copy the thing.

i would cover all costs and return the tool asap with a gift basket from bavaria. any help is really, really, really appreciated.


(rv8ch) here are the pictures of the two tools I have - let me know if you think these will help and I'll get them in the mail to you tomorrow.

I live near Lausanne, and my RV-8 is based in LSGY. My German-speaking friends all tell me that my German hurts their ears, so I usually stick with French or English!


How to pick up manifold pressure for the P-Mag ...Tomas_J

I'm installing dual P-mag's in my RV-4 and thinking of the best way to get the manifold pressure. I'm thinking of installing a DISCHARGE NIPPLE AN4022-1 in cylinder #3 or #4 primer port, and use a AN FITTINGS AN824-2D TEE to split the pressure for both ignitions. Or is it better to give the ignitions manifold pressure from separate cylinders, use both #3 and #4 and skip the tee?

But what about the fluctuates in pressure? Will they affect the ignitions? Can the discharge decrease that effect? Is there an alternative and better place to get manifold pressure on a Lycoming 320 with Marvel carburator?

(Scott Hersha)  Here's a pic of my install. Braided line to an AN fitting/aluminum line - to a T (blue on the firewall manifold), feeding the MAP sense probe, and also to the Pmags. The nylon T in the silicone line to the two Pmags isn't visible.


Quick Build Kits - Review Announcement ...Mothership

Van's staff has been working the past couple of weeks to review a few reports of surface corrosion being seen on quick build kits received by customers in the second half of 2020. We will be communicating this morning with a specific, defined group of customers who received QB kits from us, where the QB kits were received from the assembler by Van's between this past June and January. The purpose of reaching out to those customers is to ask them to complete a set of assessment steps and report their results (photos and info) to us so we can catalog each kit's results and, if and where needed, help take care of any issues.

Please note that the scope of this review is limited to those kits received by Van's from our QB assembly contractor between June 2020 and January 2021.

Below is the text of our announcement. It's important to us at Van's to deliver a quality product and take care of our customers.  -->


Accidentally dimpled a new hole through the skin

Is this oops salvageable? Or am I buying a new horizontal stabilizer skin?  [ed. Josh, I have a hole just like that on my HS.  Hasn't slowed me down yet <g>.  v/r,dr]


Wire Labeling ...Galin

I use a cheap Dymo P-touch label maker for the label then slide clear shrink wrap over it. Looks great and makes future maintenance or repair significantly easier.



February 23, 2021.  Issue #5,284.
  First RV time off the surface in (17) days Monday.  Yay!  KXBP for gas so I'll be topped off for some night time logging later this week hopefully, WX permitting.  AeroLED lights enroute for upgrade.  Steep turns on the way back - wind from the bottom left, you gotta believe me <g>.  Two RVs flew in to see GLO Monday a.m. (8 and 14A).  Back to normal mostly (lots of talk around of home repairs in progress).
  Need a Contract SIC?  Use Me!


Purchased my RV-10 this weekend! ...Ryan Bliss

Just want to share my news with the group on my first official day as an RV-10 owner. I had quite possibly the best two days of my aviation life this past weekend. My dream plane has been the RV-10 since I started flying 3 years ago, but I knew that finding one would be very difficult as 50% of RV-10's are sold by word of mouth and the other 50% that are listed on Trade-A-Plane, Controller, Barnstormers, etc., are usually sold within hours of being listed.

I reached out to John Stewart to let him know that I'm on the hunt for an RV-10 and the very next day John also received a call from David Jones about selling his 2007 RV-10. John connected us and the rest is history.

Vic Syracuse performed the pre-buy inspection on Saturday and N331DJ passed with flying colors and the test flights were a pure joy. I'm a low-time private pilot (215 hours) with HP and Complex endorsements and I have time in multiple aircraft (Warrior, Arrow, 172, 182, SR20, RV-12, Beech Sierra, DA40) and have enjoyed flying all of them, but OMG that RV-10 is another category of flying machine!! I was absolutely blown away with the harmony, response, SPEED, comfort, view from the cockpit and efficiency of this aircraft. As you can probably tell, I'm still riding high from my experience this weekend.

I look forward to getting to know everyone on VansAirForce.net and flying with local RVators in the New England area. My home field will be KRUT in Rutland VT. Thank you to Van's for designing such an amazing aircraft, to David Jones for building and maintaining N331DJ to such a high standard and to Vic Syracuse for his guidance and expertise with the pre-buy!!


A Way To Find Valve Stem When Adding Air

There are many ways to "skin" this cat - but this is one that I have used:

Use your borescope, connected to a truncated wooden (cork or ?) cone, with a hole in the middle for your 'scope camera, and sized to wedge into access hole in WP.

Bring up the 'scope image on your phone - roll the airplane forward (or back) until valve stem is centered. Voila!


David Howe


7A Rebirthing Status Report ...kentlik

HS Mounted.  Moving on to the VS, hope I can find all the parts...


14A Milestone: Engine Hung ...Mark in PA

Hung my Thunderbolt IO-390 EXP119 a few months ago. This weekend i mounted the Prop. I'll get more shots after I screw on spinner and remove the plastic - this is just a teaser. Thanks to Jeff and team at TB for beautiful engine.


The Weekend ...many



February 22, 2021.  Issue #5,283.
  -1*F here last Tuesday.  72*F five days later (a bit of a Δ).  I considered going out to fly the RV Sunday, but it was an 80* crosswind gusting 21.  Maybe today - been too long.  Hope you had a nice weekend, your pipes didn't bust and the power is ON.
  Need a Contract SIC?  Use Me!

AviationNation-Omaha RV-12iS Project Takes Flight

In all 31 students helped with the project over the 3+ year build. We met twice per week for two hours...plus three trips to Oshkosh, a covid delay, etc...it took a while but the students and mentors persevered.

All the credit goes to the student builders and mentors.


Filed Under 'Office Decorations'  ...J_Long

It is becoming quite the lounge, wish I had some blue taxiway lamps to accent it. The empennage is hanging in the more serious workspace: my wife's and my covid-days home office.


Airworthiness Insp. Coming Up This Week ...jcarne

Well I'm currently waiting on my airworthiness inspection which should be Tuesday of this week. It was supposed to be two days ago but we had to resubmit the application to the FAA in order to make some changes. The new AWC system isn't too bad but it is TERRIBLE if you need to make any changes!!! Good thing my DAR has a contact at the FAA because he had to call them to cancel the old one.

In the meantime I realized that A. I have nothing better to do at this point and B. I forgot to post pictures of the new FWF setup.

Here is the new setup on top of the engine. Sooooo glad that I can get a socket AND the torque wrench in there to tighten them plugs now without taking any baffle pieces apart!


Enlarging Bore of Short Tubing Sections - w/o a Lathe

Here is a simple (and fairly accurate) way to enlarge the bore of short sections of tubing - maybe used as a bushing or something similar, without the benefit of the precision of a lathe.

This tip is only as good as the alignment of your drill press - if its off, the resultant hole will not be concentric with the o.d.

Make a wooden (ideally oak, maple or some other hard wood) holding fixture as shown in the photo.

Position the tubing section so that the bottom is flush with the bottom of the fixture, and tighten securely with the cross bolt.

Set the drill stop at slightly more than 1/2 the "thru" distance, bore to the stop, maintaining contact of the fixture with the press table.

Loosen cross bolt and push tubing thru fixture until drilled portion is flush with fixture face, re-tighten cross bolt, flip fixture over (un-enlarged end now up), and drill to "stop". This step is to minimize the built in "out of true" aspect of drill press.

The result isn't perfect, but may be good enough for the projected use.

If there is a need to have different bores at each end, maybe using the tubing as a connector for two different size diameters, bore each half slightly less than 1/2 the depth. This will generate a stop face between the two diameters.




What gets ink off the seat?

Probably a lot of people did this ink Stain on the vynal seat. I'm not sure what to use To remove it. Anyone know what to us?


Around CO/UT Friday ...Greg Arehart 9A


AeroSportProducts Cowl Pin Cover Installation ...Tom

Q; Anybody have any instructions or tips on how to incorporate these into their cowl?

A: Yup


Dynon A/P Install on a RV-3A

Q: I have a Dynon EFIS-10A and servos are $750 for each axis autopilot - so $1500 to add it. They have mounting kits for the 4,6,8, but not the 3. Does any of them work for the 3?

A: Yup.  (David Paule) I used the standard Dynon wing mount kit for the roll axis, and made my own pitch servo mount. For connecting to the pitch bellcrank, I used Dynon's generic mount kit.  Here's the pitch servo. I don't seem to have a photo of the roll servo installation but it's fairly stock.


Whistling at 150 KIAS .. any ideas?

I know my little RV wants to grow up to be a F4U Corsair, aka "Whistling Death" ...it's developed a pronounced whistle at 145-150 kts. It's a clean tone ~800 Hz, (~ A above middle C for musical types), significantly loud, and not a vibration; it's some cavity resonating in the airflow.

I initially thought is was something in the gear fairings, with the little cuts to allow the removal of the pants and root fairings. Played with duct tape thought I found the issue at the gear fuse fairing. Liquid shimmed the gap and made those nice and tight now, but it's still there. Yawing, etc, makes some difference, but nothing magical

Other threads have suggested the tail fairing and the cutouts around elevator attach points (rudder I suppose as well), which I'll check.

Anyone else have a baby Corsair on their hands as well? Any success finding your whistle? Any anecdotal info would help to prioritize where to look.

We have a lot YAKs on our field, and I don't want them to hear me coming up on their 6...



February 19, 2021.  Issue #5,282.
  One last day of solid white stuff on the ground here.  Near freezing Thursday and clearing skies have started our melt.  Several hangars out at our field had water running out of them so a few of us found the cut off boxes and at least stopped the flow.  Checked in on the RV-6 - no cracks in the plexi best I could see at a quick glance.  Gonna be a busy next few days fixing pipes in the area and cleaning up.  Yuck.
  Wishing you and yours a warm, ice-free, above-freezing, power ON, water working, safe, happy and RV-filled weekend.
  Need a Contract SIC?  Use Me!




The Van's business offices will remain closed on Friday, February 19th to allow our staff to recover from a significant regional power outage that resulted from a major winter storm over the past weekend. We will not have telephone or in-person services available on Friday. Our website and web store will remain available. We plan to reopen for normal business activity on Monday morning, February 22nd.

Power was restored to our factory on Thursday evening. Therefore, Van's employees should report to work at the factory on Friday morning. Office staff should also report to work to complete the move-in of the newly remodeled office area, which was completed while the power is out.

This power outage was the result of a major ice storm that resulted in many downed transmission power lines, feeder lines and trees across the northwestern Oregon region. Utility crews are working to make repairs and restore power, but the damage is widespread. Many Van's employees have been without power at their homes since Friday evening and remain without power today.

We will update with any new information as it becomes available.


SB 14-02-05 Elevator Spar Cracks


I'm getting ready to perform the service bulletin that repairs the cracks in the elevator spar. I have cracks emanating from the upper and lower rivets that hold the nut plates for the outboard rod end on each elevator.

I'm at the point where I need to drill out the rivets. Normally, when drilling out a rivet, one drills enough to snap off the head and then punch out the rivet. I fear using this procedure to drill out these particular rivets will result in bending the nut plate ear out of the way and leaving the shop head buried in the nut plate ear. I think even normal drilling pressure could mess things up since the only thing holding the nut plate in place is the rivet in the opposite ear.

I could figure out a way to to keep some pressure on the nut plate against the interior doubler of the spar while I drill. I could do this by threading in the rod end bearing with the jam nut back in instead of using the nut plate holding tool. Once the rivets are drilled out and the nut plate held with Clecos, I could then use the nut plate holding tool and proceed with the rest of the SB.

So what have you done? Did you run into any problems drilling out those rivets? Did you drill, snap off the head, and punch out the shank or did you simply drill all the way through?

Thank you!



Q: G3X pitch trim indicator

I need to add the pitch trim indicator to my PFD (GDU 470 touch). When in config mode, I have green check marks in all the right boxes except "PTRIM". It just skips over this box while scrolling through the various points. It won't let me "click" on it.

A: (Longez) If your system has a "PTRIM" entry in the Device List on the System Information page, it means you incorrectly enabled a pitch trim GSA 28 servo in the LRU configuration.

While you might have a typical pitch trim motor in your plane, you probably are not using a separate GSA 28 servo for pitch trim.

Make sure that both roll and pitch trim servos are disabled on this page.


J_Long's Pretty Sweet Shop Setup


Golfcart/Pickup Towbar ...DanH

What Sam said. Fire up the welder...here's your towbar. I use this one with a golf cart or my pickup.



February 18, 2021.  Issue #5,281.
  Need a Contract Embraer Phenom 300 SIC?  Use Me!

Milestone: SB Wings DONE! ...Jeff Long RV-7

Finally finished my last wing skin rivet (besides tips and body fairing). Now to figure out how to store both wings in my basement shop and start reconfiguring my small adjacent garage shop for the SB body construction, expected to arrive hopefully in May..


My RV Weekend  ...Jerry and Axel

(Jerry) Early morning takeoff 7L KDVT.  Not to make you Texans feel bad but early morning in Arizona can be great flying. Went to Payson and on the return there was plenty of snow, but not as much as Texas.

(Axel)  Chase duties this weekend for a first flight on Justin Inman's Cassutt.


phloidtrout Dog Entry

Took our dog Ziggy camping in the RV. He was a bit apprehensive prior to takeoff.  Once in the air, he put on the Vans Grin just like always...


Mothership Closed Info ....click the link for the latest info.


Recessed Dynon HDX ...some people doing it.

(Zero4Zulu) I set my HDX recessed into the panel by making "Z" brackets and cutting the panel opening to fit the bezel periphery. It helped minimize the overhang over my switches.  [ed. And check out those switch guards! v/r,dr]

(johnbright) I made STL files if you want them. ShapeWays wants $245 for the bezel and $62 for the knob portion only. I didn't have them made.

What about using styrofoam or wood or poster-board and fabricate with ref to views in the installation manual section 4?

I came up with a blind area using SolidWorks... images below. I'm showing a 1/2" dimension for the blind area and if you made it 3/4" it would be quite conservative IMO.


Classic Aero Designs Phone/Internet Down ...Wed 1900Z

Hello Everyone,

Our Phone and Internet are down as of sometime last night. Comcast says there is a large outage in our area, and they don't know when we will be back online. If you have something urgent, send a PM, and I will try to respond when I am able.

I am accessing VAF from home. I'm not too up on accessing VAF through my phone, but I'll give it a try to check PMs.

I'm very sorry for the inconvenience.

Best regards,
Luke Doughton
Classic Aero Designs


No carb heat at cruise speeds ...Tim E. RV-4

Another dumb question from the new owner. I have carb heat via one of these heat muffs, connected straight to the opening of my airbox (no standoff type adapter, since there's no ram air I suppose).

On the ground and at low speeds in flight, it's effective -- I see several degrees of temperature rise on my carb temp gauge. But at cruise, I don't see any temperature change at all.

Is it possible the ram air speed at cruise is forcing the door open? Or does the brain trust have any other ideas? Flying around here in the PNW with no carb heat in winter sketches me out. I should never have installed that temp gauge, then I would have remained blissfully ignorant (I don't think I've ever actually had ice in it)!


How Know Which Mag Wire Connect To Which Cylinder ...PhatRV

I have a Slick magneto with impulse coupler on the left side of the engine. How can I know which wire goes to which cylinder? From what I can find this is what I "think" the sparkplug wiring should be. However, is there a way to find out with certainty which wire goes to which cylinder from looking at the magneto?

I've search the Champion website and could not find the documentation other than the sales brochures. The picture is from Lycoming M1A engine. However, various Lycoming docs only show a doodle of the wiring but do not explain how to know which wire goes where.

Thanks in advance.


DIY Broken Hinge Eye Replacement ...HFS

Here is a simple way of replacing those hinge eyes, at the end of a segment that seem to break off (with some regularity).

Just turn a new piece of hinge over (doesn't have to be the same material - can be SS or steel for more "durability"). Add "gap" spacer in between to align hinge pin. Drill/deburr and rivet together.

Worked for me on my -4 some 20+ years ago. I replaced the aluminum eyes with SS - never broke any of those.




February 17, 2021.  1500Z UPDATE
  Mothership is closed today.

February 17, 2021.  Issue #5,280.
  A friend in Oregon sent me the pic below.  Seems like a large portion of the country is dealing with nasty WX issues.  The Mothership was closed Tuesday due to power outages (the planned remodeling probably didn't get finished).  I think there is a chance Wednesday could be the same.  If they are closed and I get word from Greg I'll post a note in the 'Temp' area of the forums.  Houses on both sides of us have blown pipes and it's snowing again here, so we're riding herd on our faucets closely.  A healthy dribble and so far so good and fingers crossed.  The airport where our plane is has no water and may not for a week.
  Sure hope everyone is doing OK and safe.  Nasty stuff this round.
  Need a Contract Embraer Phenom 300 SIC?  Use Me!


First Attempt at Sawtooth Climb Tests ...Saville

"... I need more practice. Paul Dye generously suggested a technique in another thread. I'll try that next time.

However, so as to not make the flight a total loss (not that any flight in an RV is a waste), I also checked out the duck hunting and fishing ponds (Crane and Pentucket ponds) to see if the ice stretched to the shore. Lately it's been too warm for any appreciable ice build up on these ponds but we've had a cold snap. Would like to get a little ice fishing in. Looked good Saturday but today it's warm and raining."


Hydraulic Parking Brake ...blaplante

Got my Hydraulic Parking Brake valve off eBay at a good price. Was for some model Beechcraft. Still working fine.

(abwaldal) All models are pretty much the same except the 4's and 8s are tandem. These are pictures from an RV-6 install with a T-cable on the wall.
This system only works for the pilot side anyway I think. I've never tried from right side.


Fuel line fracture in flight

My RV10 has 1470 hrs on a IO 540. It is maintained by my A&P who has built two RVs and is familiar with the 100 hr AD to inspect the fuel lines. So less than fifty hrs after annual I experienced a ruff running engine suddenly with power change an a immediate landing was made and fracture of fuel line to # 2 cylinder and small crack #1 fuel line was discovered. My question is has anyone else experienced this or found cracks in their fuel lines? You can imagine I am quite freaked out by the potential for fire from this so any additional info I can collect will be welcomed



7A Rebirthing Update: Tail Mounting ...Kentlik

I have wanted to mount the HS for months but did not have room in my garage as it was partitioned for work stuff. Now I can get to it! 


Fun overnight at SC55 - March 26 and 27, 20211

Looking to stir the pot a bit and get some folks out to a fun destination in South Carolina.

Broxton Bridge Plantation - SC55 - South Carolina

My wife and I will be there on Friday evening, staying the night in one of the houses on the Broxton Bridge Plantation. We will be sitting around the camp fire and look forward to spending time with some aviation friends, and making more.

RSVP via private message.

Landing fee $20 donation, covers lunch for you and your guest.

Camping Friday night, bring your own food/beverages. Or just come out Saturday for lunch.

Lunch is served Saturday morning, 11 am through about 1 pm or when we run out of food in the afternoon.

Well maintained grass strip, 2600 feet, Rwys 01/19.

CTAF: 122.9. Look for a golf cart to follow for parking, get a ride back to the kitchen for lunch.

Activities. Other than lunch there's a bass pond for fishing, pistol shooting range, skeet shooting range and lots of shade trees for hanging out and talking with new friends.

I'm going to drive out to bring all the food, drinks and supplies to support the lunch. I've got a couple rooms reserved and will be bringing my family, fishing poles, chocolate lab, and some food for Friday night around the camp fire.

Check your favorite information source to find more informtation on the runway or if you want to stay the night, call Jerry Varn, the owner/operator.

We will be providing home made sloppy Joes, crock pot mac & cheese, a veggie platter, a variety of beverages (sodas, water).

To make sure we prepare enough food in the kitchen there at the B&B we will need an RSVP. We have plenty of parking for lots of planes, plenty of seating inside and outside, we just don't want to run out of food.

Send me a note via private message if you plan to attend so I can keep track of how many are coming from this forum. There are others who have been invited from other groups too! The purpose of this fly out is to encourage aviators in the South East to share a new experience in light of all the cancellations of fly outs, airshows, etc going on.


Tailwheel Towbar Mod ...Carl Froehlich

Every "put the little wheel between the rods" type tow bar i tried proved to be close to useless as the tail wheel always popped out.

I did a simple modification of the nose gear tow bar by making one side have a longer and larger diameter - one that would slide over the axle nut (the left one in the below photo). In addition, two bushings were added along with a longer axle bolt to make sure the tow bar did not pop off the axle.

This has proven to be very secure, no matter how I'm pulling on the plane.


Andrew From Alaska Checks IN ....needs demo ride

Looking for RV8 Demo Ride -Anywhere
Hello from Alaska!! Need to the forum and new to the whole concept of building my own plane. Have been researching for the last couple of months, staking the forum and learning as much as I can. I really like the RV8 but before I set my heart on thinking this is the direction I'd like to go (wife has given me permission to move forward) I'd like to actually sit and ride in one. With Covid and Vans not doing demos that leaves me wondering what to do. There is an RV7 owner he in Anchorage but he isn't returning messages but I prefer the 8. I have leave and plenty of AK airlines miles and if you'd be willing I'll pay for gas. Thanks



February 16, 2021.  Issue #5,279.
Lotsa snow on the ground in TX (GOES-East Geocolor pic below).  Rolling blackouts.  Hope the RV is doing OK - will check in a few days.  And hope warmer where you are.  Newfound respect for people living more than a mile north of me.   Missing summer...
  Mothership planned office MX through 17th.  More below...
  Need a Contract Embraer Phenom 300 SIC?  Use Me!

DFW upper center slightly right.
Waco just below center
(Lake Waco looks like S.America).


My RV Weekend....various

(Dvalcik)  Many years later, but I am teaching again on weekends as a level 2 PSIA ski instructor at a family friendly ski area, it feels good teaching again. Had a blast teaching over the past few days. Got off early today and did a flyby over Spring Mountain Ski Area.

(Plummit)  Saturday we flew IFR from LGB to CRQ and joined the 200 knot club.

(pazmanyflyer) Almost finished the cabin side install of my smoke-system-helper.

(Mtherr) I worked on installing a landing light on C-GERZ.


A plenum does not need to be complicated. ...Michael Robinson

I used the "stock" baffle sides as a basis for my plenum and simply added a flat wrap "lid" made of .016 2024. As mentioned, held in place by piano hinge on all sides. Takes 30 seconds to remove and 2 minutes to install (no tools).


Build Update ...Tim Foster RV-14A

Cold weather here in Texas has me itching to get some sort of progress on the plane. Feels like -7 degrees in the workshop and not set up for heating since we usually don't need it.

Pulled out the last few pieces I need to peel and prep for priming. So at least got something done. And my better half even decided to try out peeling off the blue stuff.

Hoping for better building weather soon.


Windscreen fairing ...andrewtac RV-8

This started as a what if experiment/learning experience but I think I made a useable part. It still has some finish work to do but fits really well and seems to be solid. This is my first attempt at making a part from scratch.


7A Rebirthing Update ...kentlik


Electric Elevator Trim RV-4 ...Bill E. PIREP

I did mine pretty much as the electric trim kit sketch dictated. The MAC servo is mounted to the skin access plate and all goes in together. Easy and effective. I had already cut the elevator skin for the manual cable, so I did make some minor adjustments, but this photo may help.



February 15, 2021.  Issue #5,278.
Wasn't any RVating around our parts this weekend (pic below).  Moondog was focused on the task at hand when we finally coaxed him into the yard - all business then back under the blanket.  The Rubicon spent more time in 4WD on Sunday than it has total in the five years we've owned it, and I was pretty pleased with myself and its Dana 44s, 4.10 axle gearing and electric lockers, until I looked around and saw I was surrounded by Honda front wheel drive minivans.  For a nanosecond I thought I was cool (wasn't).   I don't know much, but I do know that when a rare snowfall comes to Dallas, TX my role is to drive the wife around so she can look at cows and stuff.  Pretty rare conditions for these parts.
  Hope it was nicer where you are and don't forget the Mothership is down for planned MX through the 17th (more below).  On to today's longer-than-usual snowbound edition.  Enjoy.
Need a Contract Embraer Phenom 300 SIC?  Use Me!



RV8 Tail Strobe Shield Groundd ...smithflys23

I am in the process of correcting my Aeroled strobe wiring. Originally, it was grounded to the airframe causing headset noise. After corresponding with Aeroled, they recommend grounding each strobe at the main ground block. They also recommend grounding the wire shielding to the frame of each light, and then grounding the shields at the main ground block. The wing tip lights were fairly straight forward. The tail strobe is causing me problems. I ran the strobe ground to the main ground block, but I can not figure out a good way to ground the shield to the strobe frame. The mounting location in the fiberglass fairing doesn't present an easy solution. I thought I could put a ring terminal behind the top screw, but that wont allow the tail of the light to fit in the mounting hole. I bought a longer mounting screw thinking I could put a nut on the back. The fairing is too narrow at the top to allow the nut.
Does anyone have a suggestion on how I might ground the wire shield to the strobe frame? Your help is appreciated.


Kevin and the RV-7 Made it to Now-open Alton Bay

Runway and weather conditions perfect. All restaurants are open. Starts to get real busy around 8:30am.


Center Stack Wiring ...PilotjohnS 9A project

Just a quick update.  Center radio stack wiring nearly done. About 100 terminations so far. Only another 150 or so to go.

If you look closely at the picture, lots of things going on. For example, supports modified to allow screens to be high on panel. Connectors are mounted on brackets in approximate locations to allow nice harness routing. Harness pass thru holes in sub panel. Fuse block installed. Wires labeled with printed heatshrink. Splices and terminations are inside backshells for greater reliability and better EMI (dont try this at home, it can go wrong if not carefully done)


Napa To Half Moon Bay RV9 IFR ...SVTPete83 vid

I tired my hand at making a video of the RV catching a little IMC along the way.  The video includes using my new GRT Horizon EX with a trutrak autopilot and a GTN650. Enjoy!


Dogs in RVs ...N546RV entry

Best I can do right now. Dude seemed really interested in climbing into the canoe with me. Unfortunately he passed a few years ago, so that backseat ride will never happen.


Milestone: Wing and Top Skins ...FlyingHusky

[ed. 8 pics and lots of words in this update!  v/r,dr]


How to run conduit for rudder trim?

New builder question.

Working on adding electric rudder trim. I've never routed any wires or conduit and wondering what the best/most correct way to do it might be.

I'm in the planning stages so any advice is appreciated. I was leaning towards running conduit so I don't have to worry about selecting wires, connectors, etc. now since i haven't done that research yet. I have attached a picture with some of the parts to get an idea of what I'm looking at.

So to summarize:
1. Conduit or just run wires?
2. What routing should I take in the rudder?
3. How do I connect said conduit/wires securely to the rudder?

I have ideas and I've done plenty of googling but I haven't been able to find specific enough information that makes me comfortable i'm on the right track.

Thanks for any help.


Section 38 Canopy - Advice Please ...Rich Clark RV-14

Did I mention this section is kicking my butt!!

I'm at the point where I am about to "fill the void" on page 38-28. But the vertical seam where the canopy skin (C-01418) and canopy side skins (C-01419) meet isn't meeting flush the way I'd like. In the attached picture, it would be the aft, upper corner of C-01418 and it is sitting higher than the forward upper corner of C-01419 by about 2 skin widths. Tried some ProSeal down into the void and a clamp to hold, and that worked on one side. The other wouldn't hold. Afraid when the aft end of the canopy faring is built, this will sit way high and create a "thick" trailing edge of the glass faring.

Would love to know if other folks encountered this problem, and if there is solution that worked well. Thanks in advance!


Paint Update ...Scotty G

And even the pro's make boo-boo's! Twice they began with the wrong color. LOL. Hey, everyone makes mistakes!  Overall, I'm very, very pleased with how my design came out. They even asked me to paint part of it, which I begrudgingly agreed to. Brought back my model building days and airbrushing. I think when they saw I kind of knew what I was doing, they wanted me to do more. I politely deferred.

Anyway, enjoy a few of the pics I snapped...


GMU 11 mounting

Hi all whats the best location to mount a GMU 11 in a RV6 slider with vernier trim?  pictures would be great! This is a flying aircraft not in the project state

(mfleming) I'm also mounting the GMU 11 on the aft deck. The unit is straddling the right lightning hole. The connector comes up through the left lightning hole. All stainless hardware of course.



February 12, 2021.  Issue #5,277.
Wishing you and yours a happy, WARM!!!!, safe and RV-filled weekend.
(Need a Contract Embraer Phenom 300 SIC?  Use Me!)

Milestone: Propeller Mounted ...Draker


Right Slick Mag Check, RPM to Zero ... Justin Richardson


Every since I've own this plane when I check my right mag RPM goes to zero therefore you have to listen for an audible difference in RPM drop. I'm used to it but I'd rather it do what the LEFT mag does and see a slight dip in RPM instead of it going all the way to zero.

My panel is basic VFR , old steam gauges so i'm not exactly sure what I need to do to fix this slight annoyance. RIGHT and LEFT Mag are both Slick, I will have to find a model number if you need specifics.

Any wiring diagram or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.


Autopilot Pitch runaway GSA28 ...mciaglia

Started the autopilot config per the G3X manual. At the point of turning on the AP and adjusting the heading to confirm stick movement. As soon as the AP is engaged the pitch servo goes to a full nose up position (stick comes full back).
Stein built the panel
Software is most current
On configuration page all servos are "green check"
Tried switching the servo - same problem
Reversing the servo in setting caused just the opposite...stick goes full forward
Trim test works on the trim motors

What next?


Two Pics of DeeCee 57's Temp Long Haul Fuel Bladder


Garmin Pitot Install ...how goatflieg did it

This is how I did it. The location is just on the outside of the rib by the access cover for the bellcrank. Instead of using a skin doubler I made an aft end brace to help support the mast more securely.


Any really TALL pilots? ...rileyspoon RV-12iS

Ok, I admit it is a little late now since I've already completed the tail section, but until a week ago I had not been able to find an RV-12iS to try on. I'm 6'5" so it was a little tight. Unfortunately, the canopy was not installed so I couldn't tell if my head would actually clear it. As you can see from the photo it looks like I may have a problem with room at the top.

Wondering if there are any tall pilots out there that can share how they manage the room. From what I see in the plans, there isn't any option to move the rudder pedals out or the seat back. Suppose I could investigate the possibility of having a custom canopy made that has a slightly higher bubble but would that change the aerodynamics if the height were increased by 2 inches or so?


Something leaking from exhaust stud ...seagull

I noticed this leak that appears to be coming out of the #1 cylinder lower exhaust stud. It appears to be oil. There are no drips on the lower cowling and it is not blown back on the engine. This tells me it is either evaporating, (not oil) or a very small leak. Everything was cleaned 50 hours ago. The # 3 exhaust is leaking from the same area but the stain is smaller. Cylinders 2 & 4 have no leak.


Old Sectional Aeronautical Charts Scanned  ...Library of Congress

6,520 maps.  Plan on a large monitor, WiFi and a few hours of your weekend.

Waco, TX.  1945.

Dallas / Fort Worth, TX.  1939.

Dallas (a month before I was born).  July 1965.



February 11, 2021.  Issue #5,276.
(Need a Contract Embraer Phenom 300 SIC?  Use Me!)

Dogs in RVs ...continued here with Joe Rainbolt (7A)


RV-7A Status Report ...jcarne

Okay, as many of you know I had an impulse coupler decide to break apart on my newly rebuilt engine. The engine had to once again come off so that I could take the sump and accessory case off to change a gear and look to see if any metal entered.

Luckily not a single piece of metal was found anywhere inside the engine; it was totally captured by the mag spacer.

Long story short there appears to be a manufacturing defect on the impulse coupler flyweights. See this thread for more details/closure on that topic.

Darren at Aerosport was awesome to work with and answered all of my questions so I could get the engine fixed. They warrantied most of the parts as well. (I chose to change two out of my own piece of mind) They even let me credit the bad mag towards a Pmag (no more impulse couplers for me!!!)

In the end I replaced the crankshaft idler gear due to two slightly deformed teeth, the idler gear shaft and bolts/nuts out of caution, and the crankshaft gear out of caution. While replacing the crankshaft gear I followed Lycoming 475C and the supplement. They provided an awesome amount of detail on how to do it properly. I sincerely doubt anything was wrong with the crankshaft gear but I changed it out of piece of mind and Lycoming recommended it come off to inspect the dowel pin (which was undamaged).

Here is a shot of the crankshaft gear and idler shaft after replacement.  (continue / more pics and video)


F-808 Smokers ...DanH

I've developed a few smoking rivets at 950 hours or so, belly skin, at F-808, photos attached. QB fuselage, vintage 2005 or so. The rivets appear to be driven acceptably. There are several possible fixes. Right now I'm more interested in the cause... which may change the best choice of fix.

Offhand (no hard evidence), I'd guess the belly skin between F808 and F809 may be pumping due to exhaust pulse. I use a 4-into-1 with a 45 degree downturn. The typical exhaust belly stain runs the full length of the aft skins.

Mine also lacks the portion of the lower cowl exit which normally extends a few inches below the plane of the belly.

The skin forward of F-808 is braced by the two big baggage floor ribs. I have a dollop of silicone injected between the belly skin and the floor forward of the spar, where the floor ribs come to a point and cracking is common at the aft most rivet. Still crack-free there.

So, looking for comparative data. Anyone reporting loose rivets at 808?

(thread update 2/10)  Looking for anyone who has experienced belly loose rivets at F-808.  Vans support says it's not typical, so best theory right now says it's specific to my configuration. Comparison to another example might be useful.


When you can't fly the plane you're building

When my Meniere's flareup forced me to sell the beloved 7A, I started building an RV-12iS, mostly because I like building airplanes.

I let the medical expire with the possibility I could fly under sport rules. I'm building to LSA specifications.

Meniere's is a slow progressive illness that eventually leaves you (mostly) deaf. The process of destroying a vestibular system is difficult -- lots of dizzy spells and the accompanying throwing up etc. Not fun. But your brain begins to adjust and compensate and eventually you get some stability, which is why the FAA still issues special issuance to people with Meniere's.

As I get older and things begin to deteriorate, though, I increasingly think I'll just stay on the ground, especially since I haven't flown since the day I ferried the 7A away.

But there's this thing I have for building airplanes.

The challenge is once it's done. Painting. I can't do it myself and I wouldn't want to. My 7A was done by Midwest Aircraft Refinishing in Hibbing (probably the 3rd RV they did) and they were great. But a ferry flight to Hibbing would be out of the question.

Fortunately, Wipaire's paint shop is about 20 feet from my hangar and while they're expensive and sometimes have provided unsatisfactory results to at least one of my RV-10 pals, that seems like a reasonable alternative.

The problem? Flight testing.

The LSA requires five hours and my home field - KSGS - doesn't allow first flights to return until after testing (too many of the RVers on the field ignore the rule and are ready to claim they had high oil temps. I don't do business that way).

So that would require hiring someone to do that first flight and testing -- and demo flights to prospective buyers.

So I'm interested in hearing from other people who've done this . What unforeseen challenges await. What would be a fair price for a test pilot to spend a day testing an RV-12iS? etc.
Bob Collins


JD Air New Product

After many requests for a RED light weight tailwheel, we have one!! The same great light weight tail wheel now in bright red anodizing.

I will have these available next week.


DIY Solution for Overfilling Brake Fluid Reservoir ...HFS

I make this little "gadget" that goes in the BF Reservoir when bleeding the brakes to automatically maintain the correct "head space" when there is fluid overflow during the bleeding process.

Pretty self explanatory - when the fluid rises to the level of the bottom of the ez-fill tube, it (fluid) continues up through the tube and out to the discharge outlet (connected to a clear vinyl tube - to monitor removal of entrained air). Once the fluid rises to, and "covers" the inlet, the remaining space above is slightly pressurized (to fluid pressure), and remains to yield the necessary "head space" for an operating system.

The fitting shown has a 90* elbow to clear and potential clearance issues with the cowling hinge line. If conditions permit, a straight thru configuration works just fine.

I silver braze all connections, then bead blast to get rid of "overrun" - then paint.

YMMV - but this works for me.


RV-4 Rear Seat Reinforcement Gusset Installation ...00Dan request

Q: Could someone share a picture of the rear seat reinforcement gusset installation? I'd like to verify I'm visualizing the installed configuration correctly.

A: (Scott Hersha) Here's what mine looks like (RV4). There's one on each side.


200KT+ GS ...Darin Watson

Not the first, just the most recent



February 10, 2021.  Issue #5,275.
(Need a Contract Embraer Phenom 300 SIC?  Use Me!)

Race to Rescue Suri ...Guy Prevost and family (RV-10)

We have a wonderful two-year old Rhodesian Ridgeback that we adopted from Ridgeback Rescue US. My wife recently came across another puppy with the same foster family in Minnesota. Suri spent the first 12 weeks of her life with her littermates in a 5' square box with essentially no human contact. In her two weeks with a foster family Suri began to socialize and my wife and the foster family thought Suri would be a good fit for us. Plans were set in motion.

We reached out here on VAF and on Pilots and Paws looking for some help flying Suri part way to New Mexico. Winter weather in Minnesota is challenging, especially from a New Mexican's perspective. Forecast after forecast failed, and then on a Sunday Morning, it appeared that the Minneapolis area would be VFR for most of the following day, with great weather enroute. The timing was too tight to coordinate with others, especially for a weekday, so we decided to do the whole trip ourselves. We immediately packed some bags and by 12:30 were headed NE to the end of the VFR weather.  -->


Milestone: First Engine Start and Sign Off ...RV-10Man

Did my first engine start Sunday afternoon. Got my FAA signoff today. N781DM is an official airplane now.


Breather Tube

Q: Helping with the CI on our RV6 I noticed the breather tube is curved forward atv the bottom and does not have a whistle hole. The best I can tell it is the stock Vans part. Can anybody confirm that our setup is correct. The bottom of the tube is behind the lower cowl so it should not get any ram air. Thank you. Any pictures of correct setup would be great as well.

A: (jcarne) From my understanding you don't want to slam ram air into it but you also don't want to put a suction on it. It would seem to me that suction would be even worse for oil loss.

Here is how mine currently is. I installed a 1/4" alternate hole in case the end freezes. I would rather keep my crankshaft oil seal intact.

P.S. The alternate hole is not drilled in the pic below. I put it right below the adel clamp. I also pulled a bit up in the hole to deform the material in such a way as to capture any drips. Hope that makes sense...


Dogs in RVs Entry ...XLS+PAT

With the Covid situation, this is my regular co-pilot. She is up to six hours of RV7 time.


GPS Antenna - on or under the cowling

Q: I finally got my GPS 175 that I ordered in November but have not been able to decide where I'm installing the GA 35 antenna. It's down to 2 options separated by 2 or 3 inches vertically. As far forward on the center of the cowling that I can, aft of the rear baffles. Only question is if I take the easy route and install it visible on top or if I come up with a bracket and put it underneath the cowling.

I know that both have been done and are feasible, is there anyone with experiences that might help me decide? I think I'm leaning towards under just because it will look so much better, but any performance concerns?

Thoughts anyone?

A: (bjdecker) There's some anecdotal evidence that active electronics suffer shortened life spans due to the heat under the cowling.  I chose to make fiberglass panels for the "boot cowl" and undermount the GPS & SXM antennas.


RV8/8A Best Glide


What Vbg speeds have you all validated through flight tests? There have been a number of engine out, followed by stall spin accidents this past year.
I'm wondering if any of those were complicated by using the wrong speed for best glide, and then running out of energy short of the intended landing spot.

There seems to be some debate about min sink speeds and maximum glide range speeds (Vbg) on this forum. Regardless of small variances due to build, shouldn't Vbg generally be close to Vy for any given airplanes. This is L/D max at climb power.

I'm asking because I've seen some POHs show Vbg for RV7s in the 80 kt range, including the checklist I inherited when I bought my RV7 from a another owner, who was not the original builder. When I tested it, however, I found 95 kts to be the number for Vbg. I sold the RV7 last year, and now own an 8A, which I purchased from the builder. I did my own tests on it, and my Vbg test results show Vbg to be 100-104 kts, depending on wgt.

A simple way to compare whether Vbg is closer to 80k or 100k is to try this in 2 successive the landing patterns to low approaches in your constant speed prop airplane:

Run 1) trim for 80 kts, flaps up. Plan a normal pattern at a safe altitude. Set MP to min per your comfort level, prop at low rpm to simulate an engine out condition. When you roll out on final, ascertain your likely touchdown point. At a safe low approach altitude, set prop to max RPM and MP to max, and execute a normal go-around. Be ready to retrim as needed for the climb out, as always.

Run 2) do everything the same way, trimming for 80 kts. However, after you roll out on final and assess your likely touchdown point at 80 kts, lower the nose and accelerate/trim to 100kts. See how your touchdown point changes. Again, at a safe altitude, execute a normal go-around.

I found that in Run 2), after accelerating to 100k, my likely touchdown point moved substantially further away the runway. Clearly, my Vbg is much closer to 100 than to 80. These results prompted me to go out and do the tests recommended by Jaros, and get a more precise measurement of Vbg.

I'm very interested in results others may find.

Safe flying!



February 9, 2021.  Issue #5,274.
(Need a Contract Embraer Phenom 300 SIC?  Use Me!)

My RV Weekend ...various


RV-3B Status Report ...David Paule

Before gluing the canopy to the fairing/frame assembly, I needed to prepare the outer latch handle. Otherwise I wouldn't be able to latch it from the outside. I chose to do it like the RV-8 plans show, even though their handle is a little different than the RV-3B version.  Mine is the C-406 handle. The RV-8 version is the C-656 one.


FREE Backup EFIS ...iPhone app

Stumbled across this and downloaded the free monochrome version (the color one costs $).  If it aligns upside down like it did on my phone, go into Settings, scroll to the bottom and click the button.  Select 'Setting by Touch' (that fixed it on mine).  Pretty cool for free! 


RV10: Test Flight 5 ...karrelsj

A shorter flight than the previous trying to get back before the gusting cross-wind picked up into the 20s (I made it back when it was still 10kt right cross). With a little more trust in the autopilot, flew most of the flight via the Garmin. 1) I was able to get a nice slow mixture lean in order to gather another set of data before I start swapping on injector sizes. 2) I got some decent numbers at 4500 for 60% power LOP and 75% power ROP. I wanted to grab those numbers because I am going to start putting the wheel pants on. 3) I finally remembered to calibrate the pitch offset on the PFD. 4) I calibrated two of the AoA settings (viewable and caution). The controllers were busy all around, good job guys.


Dollars and Sense ...Myron Nelson in Kitplanes (article)

"...Early in this article I mentioned renting a Cessna 150 in 1976 for $16.50 an hour. At the minimum wage of the day, it took 8.25 hours of labor to pay for one hour of rental charge. In prep for this article, I looked for a comparison. I found a listing for a flight school renting a Van's RV-12 for $99 an hour. At today's minimum wage of $12 in my state, that equates to the same 8.25 hours of labor to rent a trainer for an hour - albeit one that's of a newer design, nicer to fly and better equipped. Amazingly not what most folks, including me, would have guessed."



February 8, 2021.  Issue #5,273.
(Need a Contract Embraer Phenom 300 SIC?  Use Me!)

Barb's Retirement from the Mothership

We wanted to share this message from the amazing Barb Billman - who is retiring from Van's!

"To all of Van's Aircraft family,

It is with great joy and excitement but with a heavy heart that I announce my retirement from Vans at the end of February. As of Feb 19, I will have given Van's the best 30 years of my life. It has been such an honor and a pleasure to work for a man who is so respected in the aviation industry and who has been such a great employer. I have been so grateful for the opportunity I was given 30 years ago when I applied for a job at Van's and was hired after being a stay at home mom for 10 years prior while raising my 3 sons. I will truly miss my family at Van's, not only my fellow colleagues and business associates, but all of our customers that I have helped over the years realize their dream of building and flying their own aircraft.

My position at Van's has provided me the opportunity like no other to befriend many people all over the world. It is amazing to me that I have touched so many lives in these 30 years and am proud to be part of the Van's family. I am humbled by the support and kind words given to me by my customers over the years and especially on the FB post celebrating my 29th anniversary. I have truly enjoyed working at Van's Aircraft. I've had so much fun in my job and have learned so much from my customers about perseverance to realize your dreams.

As I prepare to start the next chapter in my life, I will remember those who through tremendous odds whether from age, illness, death of loved ones, job loss, etc... still persevered to build and fly their own aircraft even if it took many years to do so. You guys are a real testament to the adage that "if there is a will, there is a way". Thank you all for giving me the opportunity to serve you these past 30 years. I am proud to have worked for such a great company that has brought so much joy to others, and am especially grateful for you allowing me to be part of your dreams. I can only hope that I served you well. I will truly miss you all. Goodbye.


related: Wish her a happy retirement in this thread


Non-Engineer's DIY Tug ...KeithB

I hesitated to post this with all the impressive engineering done by others. Not being nearly as talented, I took a much simpler approach. Since wheel chair motors are a favorite drive mechanism, I started with a used wheel chair, this particular model - a Jazzy Select 6 (photo 1) - comes complete with motors, wheels, motor controllers and stick control, all connected.

I then removed the seat, and created a simple mount on the seat base for the handle of my Bogert tow bar (photo 2) with a hinged cover that pins in place (photo 3), locking the handle of the tow bar and allowing push or pull.

Finished set up - photos 4 & 5

I disconnected the seat rotation stops so the tug can pivot 360 degrees. The tug (and chair suspension) works best in its native "forward" direction - the pictures here would therefore be the tug position for "backing up" the aircraft. Rotate the tug 180 degrees for "pulling" the plane forward. The stick control, removed from the chair arm, has a 5' cord - perfect for walking behind/beside the tug. On my slick hangar floor, traction is an issue, particularly at start up. I reinstalled the foot rest for the wheel chair and as power is applied, I can step on the step applying 150 pounds of ballast that gets the tug moving. An improvement would be built in ballast.

I have found this setup easily accomplishes my goal of a tug for my hangar ramp (gentle - about 2 degrees), but is trickier (non-intuitive) for close maneuvering - like turning the plane around and backing it into place - it will do it, but requires some spinning of the tug to swing the handle, and its just easier to disconnect for the final parking.  -->


Harold VanDeHey ...Rest in Peace

(josnossze post)
Over three years ago I purchased a partially built RV9A kit that was originally purchased and started by Harold VanDeHey in the Portland, OR area. Although I never spoke with him directly we conversed with numerous texts and emails over the next three years as I completed the aircraft he began. His initial workmanship was excellent and in his honor I chose the tail number 762VH to honor his work.

Harold's wife called me last night to say that he had passed away on 29 January, finally losing his long battle with mesothelioma. She told me that Harold had delighted in knowing the aircraft he had started back in 2003 was now finished and flying. Blue skies on your flight west my friend and my prayers for your family's loss.

Joe Simpson
Knoxville, TN


RV-10 Service Letter SL-00003: Optional Fuel Tank Attach Angle Removal

Van's Aircraft has published SL-00003, which approves the optional removal of the F-1054 Tank Attach Angles from existing aircraft. It is at the discretion of the owner whether or not to make this change. At times the attach angle may form cracks, and we have determined through analysis and testing that the component is not necessary. Therefore, owners who wish to do so may remove the part from their aircraft.

It's not often this sort of thing happens, but the short version is this: Analysis with modern design and testing software allowed us to validate during our evaluation of reported cracks that the part was not necessary, nor providing structural value. Whether cracked or not, the part may be removed as desired. This part will no longer be included or specified for RV-10 aircraft kits sold in the future.


RV-10 Build Update ...Tyson Brown

Not dead
So... yeah. I had such good intentions to keep this up as I've gone along, but then not only didn't post, but didn't keep up with the nearby builders. I'm sorry, but trying to get back!

There's been a new job, moving my Mom across the country, and a girl that weren't really part of the plan when I first started, but have all been better than I could possibly planned for. She (un-prompted) volunteered and signed up to take the SportAir sheet metal workshop at Oshkosh 2019, and I went out and bought a ring . I flew her to Mackinac Island (KMCD) the weekend after Osh in the club 172, popped the question, and she said yes!


VP-X and PPS manual update, please get the latest revision ASAP

Hi folks,

We've come across an issue in the field with the PPS when used with an external voltage regulator (the LR3C). There is no problem with the EVR at all, but there is a wiring change that has been updated in both the VP-X and the PPS manuals. Failure to either change your wiring, or wire when installing using this revision will potentially damage the PPS.

There is no safety of flight issue, but the damage would occur when either starting up, or shutting down. The voltage regulator MUST be shut off BEFORE the alternator, or at the same time when shutting down, or the alternator MUST be turned on BEFORE the EVR when starting up.

Revision E is now current for both manuals, and both are available here: LINK

If you have a PPS please get the revised manual whether you have a VP-X or not, but there are new sections covering use of the LR3C with the PPS in a VP-X system, and a traditional buss system.


300 MPH on the Way To A Race ...Jeff Barnes

Great tailwind KENW to KSPA for a race April 2013. 7.6 gph.


RV-14 Panel Mock Up ...rockitdoc

Painted the sub panel last night. First mock up of panel with model avionics. I hope everything fits between the panel and the sub panel.



February 5, 2021.  Issue #5,272.
  Wishing you and yours a happy, safe and RV-filled weekend.
(Looking for a contract Embraer Phenom 300 SIC?  I'm your guy!)

Usual suspects out and about.
Extra style points for the tandems in the middle.


DanH's New DIY Tug Project

Finished this AM. Works fine on the shop floor. Left-Right function is perhaps a bit too sensitive, but I'll get it to the hangar this weekend and see if it's a practical concern.

Yeah, grand overkill, but hey...


Custom Alternator Bracket ...hgerhardt PIREP

...Aluminum would be fine if it's sized appropriately. That way you can make it longer to pick up the next bolt boss to the rear to help with alignment and make it stronger too. Here's the one I made 20 years ago from billet 6061-T6. You can use the free SolidWorks through EAA, design your own, and have it made via hundreds of internet job shops.


Fuel Pump Update ...Kays


imagine you have all this hassle in replacing your machanical fuel pump. you need four days of blood, sweat and tears to put in the new one and than bad weather covers half of europe for three weeks.

then you make a ground test and your Dynon shows only 6 - 7 PSI fuel pressure instead of the 25 PSI or so required for your injected lycoming. if you apply power without the boost pump the engine feels like it's having vapor lock. turning on the boost pump and everything is fine.

then you figure out that tempest builds two versions of the fuel pump. one with low pressure for carburator and a high pressure version for injected.

and guess which one i installed... yikes.


SkyView HDX v16.0.1 Released


Prime rudder horn?

Do I need to worry about the little bearings in the rudder horn when priming? I was debating covering the holes/bearings with tape before priming.

Any tips?


Additional Mothership 2021 Calendars Found ...mothership

So, we miiiiight have found a couple hidden extra calendars. apparently print shops have a few extras sometimes. Go figure. You can email us (see below) to inquire about getting one from our lost-and-found stack. We're going to keep the spirit of Northerliving's original post going here in terms of how we will distribute these ones, because hey - we thought it was pretty freakin awesome. So, until the few remaining bonus calendars that we discovered are gone, here's the (slightly updated) dealio: ...  [ed. I got a nice email from Greg pretty much ordering me to post this <g>.  dr]



February 4, 2021.  Issue #5,271.
  And the hunt begins for upgrading our RV-6's landing lights.... I need to log night time in pursuit of the eventual ATP and my 20yr old original non-LED lights aren't going to work as well now with my 55yr old Mark 1 rods and cones.
  Back in 2002 when our RV first flew I could pull it off, but as our runway deteriorated and the potholes became very real threats at night I chose to not fly after sunset there. 18 years later I need night time in the logbook to meet 61.159.  New runway and new light tech!
  So I'm researching....AeroLEDs SunBeams looking good.  Had to look up when I could log night to the minute - turns out it was on my watch <grin>.  Technology!  I'll plan these flights to be wheels up on the first second of 'night'.  Fun stuff and looking forward to a well lit, non-potholed environment.  I'll get before and afters...
(Need a contract pilot?  How 'bout using me?)


Panel Lettering

Many new options submitted


Goatflieg's Rivet Storage

I put them in little plastic storage bins I got from the grocery store. Labeled the bins, separated them into flush and round head groups and arranged each group by size. Small batches of special sizes are kept in plastic bags. I built the shelf to hold the bins and it migrated to different places in the shop before ending up on this wall.


Cowl Oil Door Options

...coupla options.  PIREPs.

I used Camlock KM610 flush latches and a spring hinge from Cleveland Tools. Looks clean and works great. Make sure you get Camlocks for the correct thickness (e.g., 0.064 inch).



Alternator bracket /alternator help - H2AD + B&C

I started with the PP to B&C conversion on my H2AD today. It didn't go well. The mounting bracket used with the PP is 07a21516 and with a thin washer aligned the PP well. The B&C bracket provided does not fit the engine, as the case bolt hole spacing isn't correct, and belt alignment is way off. This is just a quick shot in the dark to see if anyone else has already been down this road and figured it out?

Picture: PP 07A21516 on the left, B&C on the right, up is forward ( at least for the PP).

The fact that the tension arm is in a different place on the alt case is a problem for another day, maybe. It's looking like a shorter belt will be required, so I guess the prop is coming off regardless. Big sigh.



February 3, 2021.  Issue #5,270.
  Taking the day off, I think for the first time in 20 years.  Reason?  Passed my Phenom 300 PIC checkride in the sim Tuesday - 10 months in the making.  Didn't want to jinx it by talking about it in advance.  One pic below after shutdown.  I was planning on initially making this my ATP check, but I don't have enough night time.  Should correct that over the next six months and make my jet recurrent be for single pilot signoff and the ATP rating.
  The RV ABSOLUTELY gave me the confidence to do this, and  I need a 30 hour nap <g>.
(Need a contract pilot?  How 'bout using me?)

click to enlarge


February 2, 2021.  Issue #5,269. (Need a contract pilot?  How 'bout using me?)

Vlad's 9A RV Weekend

After winds calmed down flew to check Intergalactic Spaceport. Too cold for aliens visit.


Braided Ground Strap Material ...PhatRV PIREP

I am using the 1/2 inch braided strap for my engine grounding wire. I crimped the copper lugs to make the connection to the vacuum pump pad and the firewall.

I've seen small grounding wire in flying airplane and automobile. I just happen to have the 1/2" braided strap around.


3D Panel Layout ...thread continues with ideas


Canopy Crack and Vinyl Labels to Cover It....RV7A_Flyer

I joined the club over Thanksgiving...parked on a ramp for several days (which I hate...always looking for a hangar) in some very cold weather, came out to the plane for the trip home and there it was: about 1.5" crack, just over the little lifting handle on the pilot's side. Stop-drilled and covered with some custom vinyl labels.


Cold at 6,500 ...JFCRV12

Next mod will definitely be the 'bender baffle'. RV-12 Rotax Radiator heat with Van's block off is nowhere near enough. OAT at 6500 was 18F.

But boy was it a beautiful day to fly. That's Dayton, OH off in the distance and the Hangers for the USAF Museum at Wright Patt on the very right hand edge towards the top.



February 1, 2021.  Issue #5,268. (Need a contract pilot?  How 'bout using me?)

Checking off the bucket list ...Randy Vanstory

After my dads passing, my mom remarried about 3 years ago. Her husband is a veteran and worked as an aircraft mechanic in the air force for 37 years! He loves airplanes! Surprisingly, in all that time of working on airplanes, he has NEVER had the chance to fly in a small aircraft or to take the control stick of one. He's 6'7" and because of his height, the air force wouldn't let him in cockpit of a jet with a pilot. His head would hit the canopy and his knees would be in the way in the event of a needed evacuation. The smallest plane he's ever flown in was a DC-3. So, flying an airplane has been on his bucket list for a long time.

Wednesday I had the privilege of giving him his first ride in a small airplane!! It's not easy for an 81 year old that's 6'7" to get into an RV-10. But gravity was our friend and guess what.... HE FIT!!! His legs could get under the control panel and his head didn't hit the cabin top! So, off we went!

We flew about 40 minutes around the caprock in Post, TX. He took the controls and flew the plane with some turns as well as straight and level. He LOVED it! Now he gets to check that off his list. After the flight, gravity was not our friend, but he was able to get out of the plane and has had a huge RV grin ever since! What an honor to be able to give this gift to one of our veterans! I LOVE flying RV's!!!


Cancer patient - Need RV8 help


I have been a part of the RV world for a very long time, and RVs have been the source of vast amounts of happiness for me and my father for years. My dad is now too elderly to fly and he has sold his 6. I have a partial RV8 kit, tail done, wings started. I was diagnosed last September with stage 4 colon cancer and am undergoing chemo treatments regularly.

I would like to know if there is anyone in the Charlotte, NC area that would entertain helping me work on my -8? I just cannot do this by myself. I really need help. I truly want to keep the project moving forward as its a way of giving me hope for the future. Any ideas or help is truly appreciated.

Thank you,



My RV Weekend ...various


New things in fuel

I built and installed new tanks on my RV-6A and then realized I needed return lines into the tanks.  A real ah shucks moment. But, that said they came off real easy.  There are no end to surprises when you are doing things. And no matter how good you clean somebody gets a fly in the ointment.  Crazy Crazy found one stuck in my flip/flop tube after only 4.5 hours of flying.  I guess he came along for the ride.  Must have flown in as I was buttering Proseal.


February Wallpaper Calendar ...Ed Hicks photo


How Did You Layout Your 3D Panel?

How did you guys plan where to put all the gear behind the panel? I would like to make dummies of the all the avionics out of cardboard or something similar and play with positioning and wiring. So far, I am doing it like a kid in kindergarten with paper dolls (see below). Fortunately, Dynon publishes the mechanical drawings with dimensions. I know I should learn a CAD program so I don't have to size the drawings on my printer, but the Fusion360 program that can read the .IGS files is not easy to print from in 1:1 scale. Is there a better, more elegant way to create these 3D models? Or, is putting all of this together on the computer the 'elegant' way?


Control stick and Elevator "neutral" position

When I measure 4 degrees aft on the control stick base to set the control stick neutral position I get a slightly upward elevator deflection as compared to the HS. Does this make sense? In other words, should the elevator be in trail with the HS?


Flight over So Cal mountains

Even in So Cal we get mountain snow. Great day to test out a RV10 after conditional insp..



January 29, 2021.  Issue #5,267.
  Wishing you and yours a happy, safe and RV-filled weekend.
  (Need a contract pilot?  How 'bout using me?)

Sedona w/Snow ...Kevin Lippert RV-14A


While Between Kits ...YvesCH

I made many small angled brackets for routing my wires.


Hinge Placement of Electric Rudder Trim ...Plummit's RV-10

I'll have to look at mine. The trim motor and linkage is on the left side of the rudder/VS when viewed from the rear. I'll check where the hinge is today. From the pic it looks like the builder centered it.


RV-14 Temporary Fuselage Flooring for Riveting ...rockitdoc RV-14 PIREP

...put a sheet of 1/4" hardboard over the baggage floor. Even if you stand on a segment between the ribs, it held. Plywood would be better, but not necessary.  I riveted everything I could reach standing next to the fuse myself, then while I laid on my back underneath with my mushroom set, my 16 yo son bucked each rivet inside on the lateral joints. Worked great. 2 hrs.


Don't Fear the Fiber ...jtoudouze PIREP on windshield fairing

Here is a few pictures.  Hope it helps.  The windshield is held in with small clips at the bottom. The fairing is attached with pull rivets to the fuselage and the same sealer that is used to attach the other windows in the airplane.



January 28, 2021.  Issue #5,266.
  First I need to apologize for being a little out of the loop here lately.  I'm working some side job stuff that is pulling me out of the VAFsphere more than usual for a bit (and by some I mean a lot).  Related to food and shelter - a lot of irons in the fire currently.  As a result of me not staring at the computer as much, some threads that would normally be nipped have gotten amped up and some jabs have been taken at people lately - things I would normally catch.  I get it's a strange time in the world - I'm in it right there with ya.
  So, having said that, I'd ask folks to please consider taking a breath and pausing if the urge to pile on somebody you don't know presents itself.  There's a lot of tension in the world right now, so I would really appreciate some help at keeping at least our miniscule sliver of the online universe civil and polite.
  Please, thank you, kindest, and on to the day's RV news...:^)
  (Need a contract pilot?  How 'bout using me?)

Grass Strip in Rio de Janeiro ...Flavio RV-7!

My base airport is a small "air club" in Rio de Janeiro, called Clube da Aeronautica. It's a 1320ft grass runway in a great area of the city. Attached a video I posted on YouTube a couple of months ago.


Rib Work ...sloengineer RV-14A

I wanted to share a few improvised tools I used for rib shaping. I wanted a nice round where I had to grind the VS ribs to fit the skin. I used the side of a #40 drill bit to make a stress relieving round. Then used a little 240 grit 3M wet or dry sandpaper wrapped around a hacksaw blade to get in those hard to reach areas.

I'm sure I'm not the first to think of this, but I didn't see it anywhere else on here.



G3x Touch: Flight instruments on MFD ...Brian Perry's newly flying RV-10

I have a twin 10.6" screen G3x Touch setup with the left side configured as PFD1 and the right side configured as MFD1. I have seen others with the flight instruments displayed in split screen on the right side screen, but for the life of me I can't figure out how to do this. When I hit the "split" soft key on the MFD, the screen splits into two of the choices that I already had available on the full screen MFD (Map, Charts, FPL, Wx, Terrain, Traffic, VPX, Info, Eng.).

I have looked at all the manuals to try to find this function but am probably missing something obvious. Let me know what I am missing.


Q: installation of Van's electric fuel primer solenoid and tubing

I have searched for quite awhile and have not found many pictures of installations of this primer system.
Can builders supply some pictures of the primer installs? (Most posts that I've found, have links to pix that are no longer active)
- I've seen one picture of a solenoid mount to the firewall next to the Gascolator. Seems like a good location. I've read posts that say they have mounted to an adjacent engine mount bar.
- Then there's various methods of connection from the solenoid to the Gascolator. Copper vs. SS hardline, flex hose.
- Have not found any good pix of line runs from the solenoid to the cylinder head ports. There's discussions of running the lines along the sump, or attached to the inlet runners. And some discussion on running lines on top of the engine. I have the copper tubing that came with the Van's kit.
- I've seen discussions on how many cylinders to run the lines to. Ranging from 1 to 4. I'm using the #3 lower port currently, as the sensing port for the MAP sensor.
- Is there any Van's installation instructions, other than the very limited paper that's in the solenoid box? Is there any guidance from Van's on the installation of the system?

I would appreciate any installation pictures that builders may provide. PM me for my email address if you might have pictures you could provide. They'd be worth 1000 words!

Thank you,

A: What I did
I have that set-up on my -4. For me, I used all copper tubing "old school", and ran lines to 3 cylinders (4th has a MP fitting). I ran a line from the gascolator top fitting over to the primer solenoid which is mounted behand the L/H cylinders. The line then runs forward, with a 3 wrap coil for movement, and I have a T fitting to get a line to the R/H side. I used plenty of Adel supports for the install. I have attached a picture I have on file, but could do more detailed if needed..I think it shows enough. You can barely see the little solenoid held in place by to grey Adels. The system is only pressurized when the boost pump is on. I love the set-up, and it works great. My momentary pushbutton is just forward of the throttle on the panel.


Q; RV12 Silent Hektik went silent

After more than 100 hrs of opertion, I'm doing my runnup last week and noted that my voltage and current indicators were showing low voltage and no charging activity. Back to the hangar. I have checked the connections to my SH regulator and they appear fine and the VREG indicator on the Skyview shows normal. Can this be that the VREG warning is off but the regulator is not behaving?

A: I did same as Joe - John Deere AM101406 from eBay and mounted to a 3/16" aluminum sub-plate with thermal paste. Mounted on firewall shelf in original location with no add'l cooling air. Runs warm at ~ 170F. No problems for several hundred hours now. For comparison - top ignition CDI runs cooler at ~125F.


GTN Xi Software 20.11 & GTN Software 6.71 Now Available 1/25/2021 ...g3xpert

We are excited to announce our latest software release's for both the GTN and GTN Xi Series IFR Navigators. These software updates can be downloaded from the Software Download Area directly, for EAB aircraft. Make sure to select the appropriate model when downloading the Software and Service Bulletin document, as the GTN and GTN Xi navigators use separate software loader cards. Several of the new features are a direct result of feature requests from the field, so please continue to provide your feedback on our equipment, and we will work to implement improvements that best serve the group as a whole as we continue to develop and enhance our products.  --->


January Update ...zcv7853's RV-6A Forced Rebuild

Progress since my last post has been a little less than desirable. I spent a few days cleaning up and reorganizing the hangar enough to move around again.

I have begun the process of fitting my new wings. For all who have said it would be easier to repair my old wings, I appreciate your insight and advice! I completely expect to have to undo some of my progress and revert back to using my old wings when I hit an impass. Until then I am going to attempt to use my new ones.

So far, the fit is better than expected. I fitted the pilot side wing last week to check fit and hole allignment. Everything looks spot on! I installed 6 out of the 8 spar bolts without issue. They went in snugly with a rubber mallet after being coated with corrosionX. The remaining 2 were rather inconvenient and I used up my allotment of cursewords for the day so I called it quits. The smaller AN holes lined up as well and I got many started by hand without trying too hard.

I have a new set of landing gear weldments I can use/drill if necessary, but so far I believe everything will line up.

There was a guy at my field that started building an rv7 a few years ago and recently gave up. He sold his kit to a friend of mine that insists on an o-360, leaving his pile of o-320 parts needing a new home.

All his parts were either new or overhauled with yellow tags. I got a 320 case, crank, new cam, oil pan, 4 overhauled chrome complete cylinders, OH mags, inverted oil system, and enough spare parts to build 2 engines. All this for a whopping steal-of-a-deal of six thousand bucks ($6000). He had all the paperwork including work orders, receipts, and tags for everything. I lost count after 12k in receipts. I didnt have the heart to even try to negotiate a lower price, I just payed the guy and ran like ****. I took everything over to my engine guy and hope to start assembling this weekend!!!!

Side note: it came with an overhauled dynafocal case with a direct cam lubrication mod. Unfortunately I have a conical mount in my -6A and Vans doesnt sell -6A engine mounts anymore. They do sell -7A mounts but dont guarantee that it will work with the 6's. In everyone's opinion...is dynafocal worth getting a new mount and trying to fit it, or just clean and reuse my old case???? Anyone have experience with 7A mounts on a 6??? If someone out there has a -6A dynafocal mount for sale at a decent price hit me up Curiosity question: Will a 7_ mount work in a 6A if you cut the gear legs off with a cutoff wheel?

Job update-
I was hired by a regional airline last february and then COVID delayed my training. I had my house for sale, wife and I both quit our jobs and packed up our lives and then.... the world stopped. Long story short, my job called and they are reinstating training! I have a class date! Not sure how the -6 rebuild will be affected. Unemployment is stressful and I cant wait to get back in the air again.

Please comment on the engine mount topic as I am at a crossroads! Thank you all for your advice.


Ice Breakers

My dad loves Ice Breakers. They make great storage containers for rivets. Now I just need him to like some other flavors to color code things!



January 27, 2021.  Issue #5,265. (Need a contract pilot?  How 'bout using me?)

My RV Weekend ...Randy Vanstory RV-10


N5412K (RV 10) Test Flight 1 ...Jeff Karrels

On January 10th 2021, after 3050 build hours it was finally time for the first flight. It was also time for a haircut, but I opted to go flying. All in all a great flight with a plane that flew stable, straight, and fast. A couple of points: I had the audio recorder plugged into the co-pilots jacks, and the audio panel was accidentally in isolate mode. There was a little confusion with the traffic tower on my intentions, but I opted to leave the pattern on the base leg of a pattern instead of the crosswind so I could stay closer to the safety of open fields. When I did my first level off to cruise I watched the oil door bow to the point it unlatched itself and opened. I made the decision to continue the flight test. The CHTs definitely came up when the door opened, but stabilized well below 400. I cut out the 1 hour of footage of running engine break-in race tracks at 75% power as well as a couple of speed reductions with 50% flaps to 65 knots.


Heater Box Door Failure ...Mike RV-10

Not sure if anyone else has seen this but today I discovered the door on my Right (aft) Heater door had broken off.


Weird brake leak, what would you do? ...jcarne

As you can see in the picture I attached I went out to the hangar a few weeks ago and notices a slight brake leak. There was a small amount of fluid on the ground and a hanging drop on the right caliper. I pushed on the pedals and there is still good pressure on both sides and the pressure did not cause any more drops of fluid.

The weird part is that the aircraft has not moved, has always been in a heated hangar at 42 degrees. To top it all off I haven't noticed any more drips in about the last two weeks. The brakes were also never actuated to cause this. Long story short I'm kind of puzzled. I would think if the there was a problem with the o-ring on the piston it wouldn't just stop like this. Thoughts?


Reported on the Mothership


Angles behind aft baggage ...riseric PIREP

Like others, behind the aft bagage bulkhead. Used the 3/4 inch standard angles, brass hardware everywhere.  I didn't install a remote magnetometer.


Glare shield hand hold useful or not ...YankeeBravo

Good day,

I am wondering if the 2 hand hold opening on the glare shield are useful/required, to enter the aircraft of just move the seat back and forth ?

I am thinking of covering them with the a glare shield cover (as per picture in N928MT)

Any feedback appreciated, thanks...



January 26, 2021.  Issue #5,264. (Need a contract pilot?  How 'bout using me?)

First Flight! ...Brian Perry RV-14A

N072TP had its first flight on Saturday. Constructed 2/19 - 1/21. Quickbuild wings and fuselage. The plane performed flawlessly. Ball was 1/4 width out of center to the right. Only 39.4 hours left in Phase I!


Homemade tools ...Larry Larson

Anyone that knows me, is familiar with my love of home made tools. Comes from my Dad. He was a blacksmith in youth and I often stood watching him make tools.

I've made quite a few. Links are on my blog. Today I needed a 45 degree offset 7/16" open end wrench. I just couldn't bring myself to buy one for $8 to cut and bend it. Since I have tons of paddle wood bits from my Father-in-law, it was the perfect stock. I use Forstner bits anyway. No loss. A few minutes with a angle grinder and problem solved.


Flew around Pikes Peak ...Geoff McHarg

We were headed to Buena Vista, but it was getting choppy, so we diverted down to 1V6 (Freemony County). Here is a photo of the backside of Pikes Peak.  Good thing we went Friday, today it was socked in all day.


Keeping Rivets Organized ...DanNiendorff

After several failed attempts to well organize my rivet stock, I think I have come upon the way to keep things in order. My requirements were simple, it had to be hard to spill, but quick and easy to access rivets. I wanted to be able to easily see remaining quantities. My solution? Empty spice containers. Flip cap makes them easy to access, and hard to spill. Clear containers make quantities easy to see. You can purchase them on amazon with red or black caps. I did black for AN426, and red for AN470, with the diameter and length specs on the outside of each bottle. The poker chips are ordering specs for re-order when the bottle gets low.

Everyone probably has their own way to do this, but I thought I would share this in case it might help someone else.


Cowl Attachment Just Aft of the Spinner ...BH1166 PIREP

Thin.  I cannot comment on thickness, but can say 4 layers. I just purchased a Bondo brand repair kit from Lowe's or Home Depot. It extends up to where ever you want. Mine is likely 2.5-3.5 inches . Just give yourself adequate edge distance for your nut plates in the tab u create and the overlap from top cowl area. I used the nut plates to get an idea. Make bigger, easy to cut grind down to your final need/look. I tossed my pics of mine. Look on line for others more recent builds in this area to get a visual as to placement. Zoom in here and u can get an idea of my height screw spacing. Over 100 hrs sine complete... no issues. FYI this is how all more recent cowls are constructed. Btw, your cowl is constructed with polyester resin being a 1990's vintage, so no issues with any resin system u use. My RV is 1990 kit . Cheers



January 25, 2021.  Issue #5,263.
  New job listings at the Mothership listed below.  Hope you had a nice weekend - crazy wet and foggy here.
  (Need a contract pilot?  How 'bout using me?)

Dogs in RVs

We gotta start a thread on this, but in the mean time.....seen as a reply in another thread....


Wing Tips Done! & Jake Wins High Jump @ Air Force Invitational

Now that the wing tips are done, I believe this completes the initial fit and rigging of wings, flaps, ailerons, and corresponding controls. Too bad it's all coming off tomorrow!


In-flight Portrait ...Rvator97

Fun over Malibu & Wrightwood, Ca


Park City, Utah ...jrtens RV-12 pic


My RV14A plane is a real airplane!

This morning, I flew 1.2 hours to reach the magical 40.0 hours I needed to leave Phase 1. All major issues sorted out. A handful of minor ones (example: canopy seals) left to do.



My RV Weekend ...bhester


Finally Done! ...rvanstory's RV-10

Exactly 4 years (to the day) from driving my first rivet, I now have a completed airplane (at least as complete as an experimental goes ). Jonathan at Evoke and his team did an excellent job on the paint. Stuck halfway home in Vicksburg Mississippi today, waiting on low ceilings (400 ft) to lift in San Antonio area. Tomorrow my baby should be finally home! Let the adventures begin!


RV-6 XC Video ...dalemaher

Finally a nice day to do a trip from Kamloops to Princeton, BC yesterday.


Status Report ...David Paule -3B


Braided Vacuum Hose PIREP ...Lkitson

I used the braided vacuum hose that came with the Van's FWF kit. I connected one end to the #3 cylinder and connected the other end to a 45 degree fitting mounted to a bracket I made and riveted to the firewall. I made a line from aluminum tubing to run from the 45 degree fitting to the sensor manifold block. I put a nipple fitting in the manifold and connected the manifold to the Dynon sensor with Tygon tubing



January 22, 2021.  Issue #5,262.
  Wishing you and yours a happy, safe and RV-filled weekend.
  (Need a contract pilot?  How 'bout using me?)

Fuse Blocks PIREP ...Thermos

I wanted a clean, uncluttered panel and also to retain the canopy jettison handle so Com 2 (GTR-20) and transponder (GTX-45R) went under the panel. Electrical protection is all fuses except for the alternator field breaker; I mounted two fuse blocks on the right panel support rib.

I'm really happy with how it turned out!


DIY Close Quarters Dimple Tool ...MrPilot

I am currently working on my practice kit and have been waiting a month already for my close quarters pop rivet dimpler to arrive from Aircraft Tool Supply. That being said, I was really wanting to make more progress and came up with a quick tool to dimple those hard to get rib holes.

1. Take a cleco clamp and disassemble.
2. Take the part of the clamp with the housing and mark 6mm up from the end. Make another mark at where the center intersects your first mark.
3. Screw the clamp housing to your work bench.
4. Drill using a #40 all the way through the clamp.
5. Counter sink until a rivet sits just under the surface.
6. Re-assemble the clamp.
7. Place a rivet into the hole to be dimpled.
8. Place the clamp over the piece to be dimpled and the rivet. The rivet shank will go through the hole in the clamp.
9. While holding the clamp, give it some taps with the rivet gun. (on the factory head side)
10. Remove the clamp and rivet.

This made an adequate dimple in the rib. It is not cframe or DRDT2 quality, but good enough for those few that any other tool can't get to.

Hope this might help someone in the future.


Flying Hippos!...Michael Burbidge

A lot of you probably fly multiple aircraft types. As for me, I haven't flown anything but my RV-9A for the last 5 years (360 hours). I also haven't flown a lot of types before that. I trained in a C172, transitioned trained in an RV-6A. That's pretty much it.

My flight review was due the end of November. Due to Covid and procrastination, I was not able to do it before it expired. So I could not be the PIC. And it then got difficult to find a CFI that could/would do it in my airplane.

I finally just scheduled it with the local flight school in a rented C172.

Wow, wow, wow, flying that C172 gave me a whole new appreciation for my RV-9A. I was exhausted after an hour flight. Maybe it was a particularly sluggish 172. It was like wrestling a hippo.

I didn't quite dare to fly my RV just after flying in that 172. I thought I should let the experience fade a little bit for fear of over controlling my 9. But I can't wait for the next clear day! It's been almost 3 months since I've flown my 9.

After that experience, I can't believe there aren't more Vans aircraft. There should be 40,000.

Thanks goodness for Vans!


Shunts/Fuses ...John Tierney PIREP

Here's where I put mine on an RV-7A, based on others examples, and it has worked OK.  The second ANL holder is empty, for a future backup alternator if needed.  I think I got the ANL holders with covers from West Marine.


Manifold Abs Pressure Fittings/Tubing ...bjdecker's setup

I used the 3 port manifold that Van's supplies and connected all the transducers to it.

I had a custom length manifold pressure line made, and ran it parallel to the oil pressure line along the firewall. I fabricated a small tube to run from the VA-168 to an AN fitting on the firewall which has a 1/8 hose barb installed -- Tygon tubing from there connected to the Plasma III ignition boxes.


Help with inflight mag check results ...Flying again!

I have an RV-10 with an O-540 and 2 Slick Mags (6351 and 6350). I just had them reconditioned at AIS. During the first flight after reinstalled and timed I did an inflight mag check (23"/2300 rpm). The Left Mag was smooth with EGT rises in all cylinders. The Right Mag ran very rough to the point I went back to both, reduced power to ~18"/2150 rpm and switched back to right mag and saw cy 1 EGT was down over 200 deg.

Cylinder 1 Right Mag fires the bottom plug. I removed the plug and checked the gap, resistance and cleaned it. In the tester with pressure it fired fine. I installed this plug in the top and put the top plug in the bottom so if the problem moved to the Left Mag then it would show there was something wrong with the plug.

On the next flight the Right Mag Ran smoothly with EGT rise across the board as shown in the tables below. However, the Left mag now ran rough but not isolated to #1 cylinder, 3 cylinders had a drop in EGT and 3 had a rise.
The plugs are Tempest UREM40Es with ~100 hours on them and all cleaned and gapped at the condition inspection ~3 hours ago.

The timing was checked and it had not changed. I wanted to make sure the internal timing had not changed due to a failure with the impulse coupling etc.

Now what? I bought a new plug to replace the original suspect plug but doubt that would cause the rough running and affect the other cylinders. It is puzzling that the Left mag ran fine on its own the previous flight and the Right mag had a misfire on #1 cyl and after swapping top and bottom plugs, Right runs fine and left has issues with 3 of the cylinders.

Any Ideas??

Forgot to add that the mag check on the ground is good with about a 70 rpm drop at 1700 rpm with Left and Right mags. The issue is with inflight mag check.



January 21, 2021.  Issue #5,261 (Need a contract pilot?  How 'bout using me?)

Glass panel RV14A N448WP ...jerry sparks

All Dynon panel with wiring help from Stein. Fortunately I have some great friends at KDVT that give me advice to get it right. The autopilot is an amazing tool that fly's the plane much better than I ever could


Worn locking Pin? ...ExtraKatana

I am a new (RV8) owner and I did my first four 3 point landings today. The first three were noneventful. The fourth, the tail wheel became full swivel. I did a zigzag down the runway as I was pinning the stick in my crotch. I did not use anywhere near full rudder as wind was down the runway and I had a high-time tail-wheel instructor in the back that re-affirmed it was not a hard landing. I owned a super decathlon for 200hrs last year and I realize the 8 requires quicker, smaller foot movements, it never did this. The owner told me (like it was a known problem and prior to this happening) sometimes the locking pin and spring gets gummed up. He lives on a dort/sod runway where the plane had been for 7 years. His premonition did not take long to manifest. Any hints or tips/tricks to keep that locking pin from popping out so readily? Any tell-tell signs that it needs replacement? The pin never did re-engage. Will dissasemble.


Leading Edge Landing Lights Installed ...Rvator97


Anyone flying an RV taildragger with a fused ankle?

I had my ankle fused about 3 months ago and am well on my way to recovery. Last week I taxied my RV-8 around the ramp and did a run-up to see if I could flex the ankle enough to reliably steer and brake. I could, but not by much. I definitely don't feel confident enough to fly yet; I'm going to give my ankle another couple weeks or so to loosen up a little more before I try that.

My question is: Has anyone else here had ankle fusion surgery? Are you able to safely operate your taildragger, especially during landings? Thanks.


Panel Revision 3 ...Nick

This one will be in a while.  It's ready for a GPS175 when funds permit.


Cracked Muff ...Dennis Callaghan

Add me to the list of cracked muff ends. I am at 85 hours and pulled the cowl yesterday for other tasks and found the forward muff end cracked in 2 places.


Canopy Opening Experience ...mike newall

A 12 canopy coming open in flight is not a big deal at all. If it was unintentional, there is a startle factor, but the aeroplane continues to fly stably.

During initial testing some years ago for a client, I was increasing the speed range and it popped open. Turned out that unbeknown to me, the client had turned the latch handle round as he thought it was stiff ! As you may know, the latch is asymmetric in length and what used to latch, no longer did.

The canopy floated about 6" up, so I slowed the aeroplane down and decided what to do next.

Now, if you have ever seen comics doing "The Balloon Dance", you realise you are short of a hand to control everything !

I could hold the canopy and the stick - I could hold the throttle and stick, but not all three. Factor in, it was an early model 12 with a sprung throttle, you see where my problem lay.

The main thing to remember is FLY THE AEROPLANE !

In the end, got it to left base, closed and twist locked the throttle and used stick and canopy hands and landed without incident.

Would I deliberately open a 12 canopy in flight - no - it is not designed to do that and if you get turbulence, a sudden jolt or anything that compromises the canopy bubble - your day just got really bad indeed !

The whole incident was fully reported both to our LAA and to Vans and subsequently, changes were made to the latch system on the 12 to include warning lights.


Food Saver cowl blister ...fl-mike

So, I needed a cowl blister for clearing the fuel servo controls. I found some aluminum blisters on ebay, but knew they would be dent magnets, so I bought one to use as a mold for a fiberglass blister.
Seemed like vacuum bagging would be the way to go on this part, but I have no vacuum bagging supplies or equipment. (except for peel ply)
My wife was sealing up some frozen chicken cutlets in the kitchen with her vacuum/heat sealing Food Saver.....hmmmmm.....
So, I made up a Foodsaver bag, made some plastic release sheet with my leather punch, some bleeder cloth from polyfill sheet in the sewing supplies cabinet, put it all together in the shop in the bag, brought it in, and....
Durned if it didn't work like a champ! Sucked that bag down and heat sealed it, no muss, no fuss. Cut the bag open the next morning, pulled the part, a little trimming with snips and, there ya go.



January 20, 2021.  Issue #5,260 (Need a contract pilot?  How 'bout using me?)

My RV-4 Panel ...Flyhud


Manifold pressure sensor problem

Hi everyone. I have a strange manifold pressure sensor indication that's just started in the last couple of flights.

After takeoff, I reduce my manifold pressure to 25", which I then maintain as long as possible during climb by adding throttle (if I don't, of course, the pressure drops as I gain altitude). However, lately, I see my manifold pressure *rising* as I climb, even without adding throttle, which makes no sense if things were working as they should. On my latest flight, right after reaching 10000', wide open throttle was showing around 26" initially, though in my experience, it should be closer to around 20".

Over the course of 10 or so minutes, the indicated pressure slowly reduces to what it should be reading.

When I change throttle, the indicated manifold pressure changes quickly, and as expected, so my first thought isn't necessarily blockage in the tube running from the engine to the sensor. I've just seen (so far) that during a climb (and presumably during a descent, though I haven't tested this), the indication is unreliable until levelled off for several minutes. Is there a vent on the sensor to outside air that may be partially blocked? Or equivalently, is there a fixed pressure chamber in the sensor that should be holding a constant pressure but is leaking to ambient?

Obviously, I can just replace the sensor and I expect the problem would go away. But I'm trying to understand what might cause this (and if it's just possibly a partially blocked vent hole, it may be easy enough to just clean out).

Thanks for any suggestions!


Completed RV-14A

Completed RV14A N448WP 2 years ago and just returned from Glo Paint Shop


Fuse Progress ...rockitdoc

Emp done.  Fuse getting close.


Angle of attack indicators

Apologies if this has been discussed elsewhere but I didn't see any threads on this topic.

I would like to see what others have to say on installing an AOA indicator on their RV. Specifically, thoughts and opinions regarding how they add to safety, and which products you have installed or rejected and why. Ballpark cost and ease/difficulty of installation would also be helpful.

My wings are finished except for the tips and not yet mounted, so I'd like to run the tubing/wiring before they are completely buttoned up and in place.

Thanks for any advice/experience/suggestions you can share.


SS Tape On RV-7 Flaps

Much thanks to Ironflight and others for their much earlier posts on using SS tape from McMaster for this as an alternative for this purpose, which were helpful to me at that stage of my project.

Attached are some RV-7 flap pix as a reference for the OP.

I also used 3" tape and would repeat the caution about using gloves or other protection against the razor sharp edges during application, which is not a factor after the tape is applied. In my experience it also went down easily, and if you are into cosmetics, it can be easily polished to a high sheen with common metal polish.


Puppy Rescue help from MSP area needed


We're about to adopt our second Ridgeback puppy from Ridgeback Rescue US. "Harlowe" is currently being fostered in the Minneapolis / St. Paul region and I'm hoping to arrange a shuttle to get her to her new home. Is anyone interested in using their RV to fly her to central Nebraska and meet? I'm flexible and can meet at the airport of your choosing. KLXN is about 3 RV hours for me each way, is somewhat familiar, and has cheap fuel.

Winter weather can be challenging and flexibility is key. Sometime over the weekends of January 29 or February 6 are my targets.

A successful mission will net a trip report with kids and puppies, and much gratitude.


New to the forum, long intro, fuel system question ...Richard RG

Greetings all,
Little did I know the resources available to a new RV owner. Amazing! I've searched high and low in the various forums and not able to find a definitive answer to my question. Please bare with me while I give a little back ground leading up to my question (s).
Late in the summer of 2020 I became the proud owner of an especially well built RV3b, ident C-GBGF and completed in 2009. I purchased the RV3 from the widow of the craftsman that built it, her husband and builder having died in his C-172. He was flying off the west coast of Vancouver Island, British Columbia, gathering weather information data for NOAA.
The RV3 was his third RV build. His lovely widow knew nothing of the RV3, but after a 5 hour inspection by both myself and a very competent Aircraft Maintenance Engineer (AME) determined the aircraft to be exceptionally well put together and seemingly, strictly built to Vans construction plans.
Having zero tail wheel time when I bought the RV3, discovered its not so easy to get transition training. Fast forward 5 months... I finally got 1.1 hours in an RV6, with a most excellent instructor. I think we spent a bit more of that time doing aerobatics, rather than figuring out how to taxi and land.
During the taxi training phase of my 1.1 hours, discovered the RV6 was a lot more manageable than the RV3, which I had taxied around a number of times. Upon return to home base from my first tail wheel adventure, quickly determined that the tail wheel assembly was pretty much worn out on the RV3. More weeks passed, waiting for the new tail wheel assembly to arrive and install.
Once the RV3 was good to go, intended to resume training in the RV6 but then discovered the left starting mag was dying in my C-150 aerobat, not to mention the transponder started giving me grief as well. The transponder is mandatory in order to fly to the RV6.
Yet more weeks pass and I'm itching to fly the RV, but paranoid about breaking it. Lucky for me, some airport friends took pity and volunteered I could use a Piper Tri-Pacer converted to tail dragger, to carry on learning how to manage a tail dragger.
A very brave and competent fellow jumped into the converted Tri-pacer with me and even more bravely, gave me the left seat with no brakes on his side. After 3 hours of flying around and doing a bunch of landings/takeoffs he announced that I should go fly the RV. I didn't necessarily agree with him, but threw caution to the wind and strapped into the little hotrod, lined up on the runway and with knees shaking, did the most horrendous takeoff I've ever done. I've got 900 hours total, 450 of that in a Mooney M20e and the rest in 150's.
That first takeoff was quite an eye opener! That little sucker has some serious get up and go and will not be nice to you if you pick the tail up real fast. I picked the tail up real fast and it was immediately doing a hard left... I ended up doing a bit of the wild thing down the runway using an awful lot of the 75' width and yep, I had a wee bit of an audience, of course.
Luckily, the RV3 gets in the air very quickly, so managed to get away quickly from my bad takeoff roll and the prying eyes of the seasoned pilots watching my performance. Happily, they didn't have their score cards handy that day. Scoring visiting pilots is a bit of a pass time at our 2400' runway. The Ukrainian judges as they call themselves have score cards that only go to 7, so don't feel bad if you get a 5 or 6.
After an hour of slow flight, some stalls and feeling the plane out, it was time to land. During my hour of feeling the plane out, I switched tanks after about a half hour. Same as the Mooney, always put the boost pump on during the switch and watch the fuel pressure. Boost pump off, watch the pressure.
My first approaches were intentional overshoots, several times. It certainly doesn't take much to execute an overshoot in a little airplane that weighs 821 Lbs, with a 160hp.
Satisfied with the overshoots ,was time to land. Sitting on the ground, I can see pretty much nothing looking forward. So, having memorized this sight picture before takeoff, knew that if my butt was almost dragging on the ground and I could see virtually nothing looking forward, I should be touching down very gently soon. Things worked out a little differently than I hoped. It seems that spring gear can be pretty springy, unless you set those springs down very gently. Apparently I wasn't gentle enough... after the second bounce that was about the same altitude as the first, thought things weren't going to get any better, so powered up and went around. That little RV does a go around really well!
Though I still bounce somewhat, after a grand total of twelve hours of flying the RV3, find that the airplane manages itself just fine if the stick is held full back and you keep it pointed straight. I've actually surprised myself with several greasers, but attribute that more to luck than skill.
Of course, after each flight I very carefully check and calculate fuel consumption because I have never trusted fuel gauges. Early in the process of monitoring the fuel burn, I was shocked a couple of times to discover that the Port tank had come up in level, rather than going down the expected amount. Further, the Starboard tank would be very much lower than expected. In my books, this is very odd and potentially hazardous to ones health and longevity.
Shortly after taking ownership of the RV I discovered that the lever attached to the fuel selector shaft was slightly loose. I applied locktite to the screw that attaches the fuel lever selector to the fuel selector shaft but still felt a small amount of play in this assembly. Looking closer, I could see a small amount of wear between the fuel lever selector socket face and the corresponding profile on the end of the fuel selector shaft. The aircraft has 840 hours on the airframe and likely the same hours on the fuel selector. It appears to be the selector that came with the kit, so have ordered a replacement from ACS and not nearly as expensive as the Andair unit.
When I discovered the unusual tank levels in the RV, suspected that the fuel valve was the culprit and some how cross feeding. It didn't make sense that the the Port (left) tank was always gaining level over the Starboard tank. Right from the first flight in the RV, my habit was to always begin flight with full tanks and always start up and run on the right tank, switching later in flight.
After my most recent flight, filled both tanks full and taxied back to the hanger. When I shut down, I had a pretty big puddle of fuel under the left tank vent. I opened the left tank cap and fuel overflowed from the tank. It finally became clear that something seriously strange was going on with the fuel system.
A close inspection of the fuel system revealed a return fuel line tied in off the main fuel supply line, immediately prior to the carburetor, . The previous owner had installed what appears to be a recirculation line off the fuel supply to the carburetor and is returned to the left tank only.
I am assuming such a line is installed to minimize the chance of vapor lock and also, helps to ensure cool fuel is being delivered to the engine.
My understanding is the previous owner may have used mogas/car gas. In the accident investigation related to his crash in the C-172 it was noted that there was a mix of avgas and mogas in his aircraft and carb ice may have been a contributing factor to the accident.
This recirculation line complicates managing fuel and at this time, I am trying calculate the recirculation rate. So far, I believe there is no restriction orifice in the recirculation line, as even after 40 minutes of drawing down the full left tank in flight and then switching to the right tank for 30 minutes, discover on the ground that the left tank is again full to the max.
At this time, I don't have plans to burn mogas after having had a fright in the Aerobat when using mogas. Very hot day in the Aerobat, climbing out over very inhospitable terrain and the engine starts dying, seriously no fun.
Fortunately, the Aerobat has a 150hp lycoming and requires a boost pump for this STC. The boost pump saved my bacon that day and have shied away from mogas ever since.
Am I on the right track assuming this return line is for vapor lock control? Can I install an isolation valve on this return line to the left tank and open only as required? Will shutting off this return line cause issues with the mechanical double diaphragm fuel pump attached to the back side of the Lycoming E2D?
Would I be better off to install a restriction orifice in the return line (if there isn't one) which should then allow a metered and easily measured amount of fuel recirculation?
Apologies for such a long post, just thought I'd give some back ground before putting my question out there. Any insights to managing my fuel in the safest manner possible, much appreciated!



January 19, 2021.  Issue #5,259 (Need a contract pilot?  How 'bout using me?)

My RV Weekend ...various


Trim and Flap Relays....to DIODE or NOT ..? ...Chris Lunt

I wonder if I can lay myself open to ridicule and ask my fellow builders a really numpty question about using diodes in relays.....?

I'm using Vans' RV7 flap motor, Ray Allen Company(RAC) trim switches and pitch trim motor, and wish to incorporate servos to activate my flaps and trim motor.
I'm using AircraftExtra's servos but specific manufacturer aside, my question is far more generic.

I am trying to instal these servos in my flap and pitch trim circuits.....and good old Bob Nuckolls has provided the very schematics I need...  -->


Mysterious white powder

lately been seeing some white powdery areas on the rug. Usually but not always under the panel. Can't figure out where it's coming from. Anyone else seen this? Hopefully it's not related to some kind of corrosion...


Mothership Shipping Update ...Jan 18 update


Oops I let the smoke out

Building my RV7I have install the extra aircraft FPS plus system however when I was installing this system I caused a ground inadvertently which fried the wires in the circuit panel now I am attempting to solder those wires back together with standard wire and soldering techniques and wondering what your opinions would be on this matter. I have talk with rich at aircraft extras and he seems to think if the soldering goes well in appropriate supplier sized use this would remedy the situation in all will be well. What are your thoughts


Some RV-4 Love

I was still in my 20's when I built this.

Still one of my favorite photographs of SuzieQ.

(Scott Hersha)
Prior to my new Sensenich GA prop:


Another Vote For Clickbond ...jbb

I also have used the Clickbond cable tie mounts and Clickbond two part methyl methacrylate adhesive, with good results, on both RV fiberglass and aluminum parts.

They are more expensive than consumer level products, but are used in the aerospace industry and are designed to not come loose once bonded to a properly prepared surface. The product instructions say to prepare the surface by scuffing and wiping with alcohol or equivalent solvent.


200KT GS Monday ...not really hard with a 31KT tailwind <grin>



January 18, 2021.  Issue #5,258.
   Hope you had a nice weekend and got to spend some time with your RV plane/project.
(Need a contract pilot?  How 'bout using me?)

My RV Weekend ...Scott Chastain RV-8


New Rudder stub spar ...Rob Carsey RV-12iS

I ordered the rudder trim tab recently just in case I needed it (it was only $7). New KAI instructions were sent with it. I noticed a new internal piece inside the rudder that was not part of my original rudder KAI.

Does anyone know why this piece was added (R-01211 STUB SPAR)? Is it necessary if you want to add the trim tab? What is the risk? Is it worth adding it after the rudder has been built?


RV-6 Project Painted ...Nelson235

Milestone: "Today I got one big step closer. Painted the fuselage."


Tracking Down Oil leak - Looking Like a Stud

Pun intended...things were getting too oily so I decided to hunt it down. Here's what I did...
I washed down my O320-E2D really well with Aviation Simple Green and low pressure warm water to get most of oil and grime off.
Finished wiping off any residue really well with avgas and shop paper towels
Inspected engine under UV prior to running to ensure no oil was detected and engine was clean
Ran engine for 5 minutes
Inspected in dark hanger with UV flashlight

I possibly have a drainback tube leaking but I certainly have a cylinder stud or two leaking. Below is a picture of the worst offender. This is only after running for 5 minutes with a normal run-up.

You can see that the oil glows much better than I was expecting. I had read the Aeroshell glows under UV, but the this is Phillips XC without any dye added. In case someone wants to duplicate my process.

Im wondering what the best way to try and seal this up without pulling a jug??? Loctite 290 or low strength 220??? Permatex Spray Sealant


Falcon Flight Formation Clinic 2021, 9-11 April 2021, KTPL Temple, Tx

Happy 2021, Y'all!  Falcon Flight Formation Team is happy to announce our 2021 Formation clinic! This year's clinic takes place April 9 -11, 2021 in Temple, TX (KTPL). It WX gets us, we will have a BACKUP date of April 23-25, 2021.


Where is My Filter Bypass? ...avrojockey 9A

Standard CH48110 filter is called out in the parts catalog for the -E2D, but my engine has been equipped with a CH48103 (or equivalent) because it has a CH48212 converter stud installed.

It appears neither one of these filters has the built-in bypass as the Champion docs indicate only CH48108 and CH48109 have it.

I have the standard oil filter adapter pictured below...if the filter is blocked, how is unfiltered oil bypassed to provide lubrication? The way I understand it is the pressure will be relieved upstream like normal as the ball will unseat more, and a cooler blockage will be relieved by the vernatherm, but how does oil volume get the important stuff if the filter is blocked? Just trying to understand things work on my rig.


Corrosion ...Rob Hunter

Argh, corrosion from storage in the hanger. What do I do now. Tried alumaprep on it, but didn't seem to help as you can see.


Rudder fiberglass fit? ...kjowen RV-8

I have been tinkering with this step now for about 4 months...  I have seen the beautiful work on many -8's in this area and I am just trying to get mine to the point that it has no gaps...  Please take a look a the current status of this assembly and any suggestions would be appreciated.  -->


Manifold pressure sensor problem ...charrois

Hi everyone. I have a strange manifold pressure sensor indication that's just started in the last couple of flights.

After takeoff, I reduce my manifold pressure to 25", which I then maintain as long as possible during climb by adding throttle (if I don't, of course, the pressure drops as I gain altitude). However, lately, I see my manifold pressure *rising* as I climb, even without adding throttle, which makes no sense if things were working as they should. On my latest flight, right after reaching 10000', wide open throttle was showing around 26" initially, though in my experience, it should be closer to around 20".

Over the course of 10 or so minutes, the indicated pressure slowly reduces to what it should be reading.

When I change throttle, the indicated manifold pressure changes quickly, and as expected, so my first thought isn't necessarily blockage in the tube running from the engine to the sensor. I've just seen (so far) that during a climb (and presumably during a descent, though I haven't tested this), the indication is unreliable until levelled off for several minutes. Is there a vent on the sensor to outside air that may be partially blocked? Or equivalently, is there a fixed pressure chamber in the sensor that should be holding a constant pressure but is leaking to ambient?

Obviously, I can just replace the sensor and I expect the problem would go away. But I'm trying to understand what might cause this (and if it's just possibly a partially blocked vent hole, it may be easy enough to just clean out).

Thanks for any suggestions!



January 15, 2021.  Issue #5,257.
  Windy at 52F Thursday - gusting to 49 for an hour or so at nearby DTO so said the METAR.  It was down the runway, and some brave souls were flying (not me).  I did get the nice pic below that is now my cell phone wallpaper.
  Wishing you and yours a happy, safe and RV-filled weekend.
(Need a contract pilot?  How 'bout using me?)


Tractor part made into bucking bar for back riveting

Cat 3 linkage pin, the polished end diameter is 1.5 inches, weight 2.2 lbs. Works well for back riveting skins.


Thoughts on RV9A Panel

So here is my panel layout.  Feed back welcomed.  I don't like where the ELT is located, but I want to get it away from passenger who may fiddle with it in flight. Also, I want access to change the battery.  The AP is on the left because I dont want to switch off accidentally in flight and I dont plan to be using the power switch much. Parking brake is under panel on left side.  Thanks in advance for your feedback.


Disappearing landing gear?

Here's an off-the-wall question for someone with human perception experience: Is it possible to paint a tailwheel RV's main gear so that it is less visible in flight, making the plane look more like a retractable from the ground? Would any of the "air superiority colors perhaps work? Is there a different answer if the goal is to make them less visible air-to-air?


What's wrong with this picture?

At least I discovered it before it got closed in.

CAV-110 Drain Thread Engagement ...Girraf

Q: Installing the drain valves in an RV-7 and the valve turns in very easily for the first 2 turns, then hits a wall where it gets really hard to turn. I experienced the same thing using the shrader valve attachment when pressure testing the tanks, and in that case, 2-3 turns was enough to seal the assembly. I used some boelube during pressure testing, and now using EZ turn for the drain valve installation. I'm concerned about damaging the threads on the Drain flange or driving the drain too deep into causing the flange to crack open.

Update later:
Drain valve installed with EZ turn lubricant. Finger tight was about 1 turn. Went an additional 1.5 turns with a 1/2" crescent wrench. Showing about 3 threads on the drain valve and I would guess about 3 engaged in the drain boss. Valve is actuating freely. Thanks for the inputs.


HYD Lock in the 912 Rotax ...rvbuilder2002

I think Hyd lock on a 912 Rotax is an urban myth. There is not enough volume in the tank to fill the engine enough to cause it unless your hangar is built on the side of a hill and not level. And a low mounted tank would reduce the tendency for oil to be siphoned from the tank to the engine case. If anything, the RV-12 would be considered to have a rather high mounted tank (within the range allowed by Rotax's specifications).

The document on our web site (here) explains it pretty well. Some of the observant experts will read it and say "The oil doesn't get pumped from the engine back to the tank. It is pushed by positive crank case pressure." Yea, I know that. The description was used to explain the process in simple terms, to those that are unfamiliar with a 912 Rotax.


Elevator Update ...tdragger1966

In the end I did remove the skin, flute and re-rivet. Turned out pretty good but did take a long time.


Help My Next Door Neighbor's Granddaughter Find a Bone Marrow Match

Dear VAF Universe,

I need your help.  Patsy is my next door neighbor.  Her granddaughter Audrey (picture inset below) who lives a couple of miles away was recently diagnosed with Severe Aplastic Anemia and we're trying to help her family find a bone marrow transplant candidate that matches her.  You can text AUDREY to 61474 if you would like to add yourself to the registry.  A swab kit will be mailed to your house (free if you're 18-44).  From the site: "Doctors request donors in the 18-44 age group over 85% of the time. If you are between the ages of 45-60, you are welcome to continue with your registration, but will be required to make a $100 payment to cover the cost to join the registry."

Audrey is a sweet kid.  Food for thought: 1) there are 30,000 registered accounts here and easily another 30,000 unregistered 'lurkers', 2) life is a precious thing, and 3) helping someone doesn't have to take much effort.

Here's your chance to step up and walk the walk.  Spread this info to those you think could help.  Given the choice I would rather you sign up for this registry than send in a yearly VAF donation. 

Our airplanes are great.  Helping a kid is better.




January 14, 2021.  Issue #5,256.
(Need a contract pilot?  How 'bout using me?)

A Nice Use of the Mothership Logo ...used with permission (cderk's RV-10)


Analysis Paralysis ...salty

So, the wife and I are trying to get started with our tail build, we finally have all the tools needed and have worked on the training kits. But, I feel like we're getting worse, not better. It's probably not that we're actually getting worse, but rather, that I now know enough to realize how bad we are.

But, I'm reluctant to start on the real thing due to two issues.

1. We're still messing up the skin pretty badly every now and then. We know why we're doing it wrong and how to not do it, but the actual doing it right part isn't consistent yet.

2. No matter how many times we read the instructions and review it until we think we know what to do, we still make stupid mistakes now and then drilling out the wrong size hole, or do things not in the best order. I think our biggest mistake here is not marking the parts and then after sitting them down getting confused.

I'm looking for feedback on the above, and guidance on when to know we're read to do the real thing. It just feels like we are going backward because even though we're probably getting more consistent, we see the mistakes more obviously and I feel like we are doing worse.

Adding a few examples of the horrid mistakes we're still making.


Ok to skip NAV radio?

A bit struggling to choose between Garmin 225A COM and 255A COM/NAV.

I will install a G3X and a GNX 375. Most likely I will only fly VFR with my 7 (even if I have Instrument rating), but it is nice to have an IMC approach backup just in case. LPV approaches are possible with the GNX /G3X which would do the trick.

So, any disadvantages with skipping the VOR/ILS radio (and that ugly antenna) and go with just the 225? But I might have missed something?

If I go with the "COM only", I would have preferred the GTR 200B over the 225 as the 200B intercom apparently is superior of the one the 225, but as I need a radio wit 8,33 spacing it seems the only way to go is the 225.


EXTAAFLY's Duckworks to LED Project

I started to alter the opening, then got an offer I could not pass up from a local tool builder and world renown candy maker.  He has a couple of pretty nice airplanes under his belt too. . .  riveted a doubler on with some nut plates at the corners, then attached the AeroLED.


Scratch Removal Best Temp?

Q: right temp for removing plexi scratches
I have scratched my canopy and bought a Scratch off kit, however I'm wondering if I would be better off doing this job after it warms up... Temps are now in the 35 to 50 degree range.

I know you are better served cutting the canopy when it is warm but does the temp of the plexi make a difference in doing repairs?

A: (sprucemoose)
Although we have exhaustively tested Scratch-Off compounds at low and high temperatures, (40-50 and above 85), and have had success, we recommend working temperatures above 65 and less than 80. (Please note all temps are Fahrenheit). The compounds are a culmination of years of research and are compromised of fairly complex chemical chains - these chains require certain temps to work in harmony. The aggregates in them are of a diminishing return- that is they start out aggressive, needed for defect removal, and as they are worked they break down into microscopic "marbles" if you will. These microspheric marbles create a "No Cut" action helping to finish off the surface leaving little or no swirls - depending on the experience of the user. To date - this technology is the purest form of polishing acrylic and polycarbonate surfaces. This process has maximized performance between 65 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit.


RV-12 Master Switch Replace

(mcems) I would like to hear from anybody that has replaced their master switch on the panel. It appears it should be simple.

Mine doesn't want to come out . I have cleared the plastic retainer clips that holds it in the panel,but it will not come out of the circuit board that it plugs into. Are they soldered in??? I was told they are not. I do not want to force it and break the circuit board.

How did you change yours ??

(MMiller) Brad, on the D180 all the switches are soldered. Here is a screenshot of the back of the PCB at the mater switch.


Don't Drink Alodine ...DARV8

Just a reminder about Alodine and contact with your skin.

I've worked with Alodine for many years, but never had a problem / exposure until yesterday------

Last night, I removed my gloves after alodining some empennage parts (which took about 30 minutes in total). I noticed I had a pin hole in my right glove when I saw the tip of my thumb had turned yellow (like when you've pealed a nice fresh and tasty minneola tangerine).

About 6-7 hours later I felt sick to my stomach and had fever/chills.

Since I never had a problem before and I was at home and there was low risk, I used some cheap latex gloves. I'm sure safety wire nicked them somewhere. Anyway, I've gone back to military chem suit gloves. Maybe overkill, but they're made of Viton Rubber (it says so on the cuff) which has excellent chemical resistance anything I've encountered in aviation. New (Old Stock) they're $2-$5 a pair at just about any Army Surplus store. (Gloves made of Viton from a civilian supplier can be very expensive).

Anyway - just a reminder - especially for you young guys who want a family. And yes I know alodine sucks for the environment and there are new products you can put some ice in and an umbrella on the edge and drink while sitting next to a pool. I encourage you to use them. However, I'm old and should already be dead so I'll stay with what I've got.

Anyway, this morning I looked up the MSDS from Bondrite and was a little shocked to read the "if skin contact" procedure.
Dave Armstrong
Army, retired, 1-each



January 13, 2021.  Issue #5,255.
  Good RV Wx returned to my area and lots of RVs were taking advantage of it Tuesday morning.  I wanted to put a little more of a spotlight on 'Nova RV's' PnP mission this past weekend (below).  It was in the 'What did you do this weekend...' thread yesterday, but it's such a cool picture it needs to be the splash for a day (IMHO).  Great work there, Chris!
(Need a contract pilot?  How 'bout using me?)

PnP Mission ...Nova RV RV-14A

Pilots N Paws rescue flight with one dog and 2 cats. Great way to get my flying fix and help out.


Oil Line Fitting for Oil Pressure ...PhatRV

What is the fitting do you guys use to attach to the oil pump outlet so the oil cooler line + oil pressure sensor line can be attached? Can you provide the AN part number?

This is the oil port below the oil filter where I think the oil fitting should go which allow for the connection of the big oil line and the smaller oil pressure sensor AN fitting.

This is the oil pressure AN fitting to the sensor according to the plan.


First Flight Reported ...on mothership


First flight of the year! ... flat tire :-( ...Lycosaurus

Shirley and I went out for our first flight this year. Sunday was not the best day for ceilings, however turbulence was low and we had a nice flight.

Upon our return (CYRP), our landing was fine and we long taxied to the taxiway, but something did not seem right. Needed more power than usual and some strange vibration. Stopped near the threshold of 04 so as not to impede any other traffic and stepped out to check on the tires. Yup, front tire is flat. Called the FBO to let them know of our predicament and that we were going to get some tools from our hangar and attempt to inflate the tire.

A hangar neighbor Jeff offered us a dolly in case the tire would not inflate or remain inflated long enough for the taxi back to the hangar. Jeff actually took the screwdriver from my hands and eagerly started working on the wheelpant). Thanks Jeff Whaley.

After removing the nose wheel pants, we tried tire inflation and the indications were that there must be a large leak. Lifted the nosewheel and strapped it to the dolly. Used the towbar with a McGyver'd tow attachment to the trailer hitch. A slow walking pace back to the hangar ensued while being very attentive to cracks and ice on the ground (the castoring rollers on the dolly are small and hard offering no suspension).

I have the nosewheel at home now and will take a look in the next few days. The rim is fine, though the tire will need replacing due to rubbing marks. I am sure the inner tube is toast as well. Made for an interesting day... if you take a positive spin on it. Jeff and Matt were there to check up on us and offer assistance. On tow back, we had ourselves a convoy.


Panel Thoughts ...various chiming in

(danastoker) I have been flying with my Dynon panel, two 7" D-100/D-120EMS and the right screen is useless to me because it cannot be viewed at an angle. I am upgrading to a full Garmin panel this month and to help with the distance to the right screen I am going to have the two G3X 10" screens right next to each other with the GPS / AP / audio / SL-30 to the right of that with a G5 to the left. I [hopefully] have attached my proposed panel.
Any thoughts on the two panels being together like this? Thank you for the help.

(Planecrazy232) I'm on the side of stacking the screens next to each other. Mine has the 10" and the 7" side by side and I find it comfortable to reach the GPS and autopilot controls. Start up switches on the left and flight switches in the center. I agree the two 10" screens side by side would make the radio stack very hard to work with. If I have a second pilot with me I can turn the 7" display into a PFD with the touch of one place on the screen. Ipad is on the yoke with a Ram mount.

(Nova RV)  FWIW I have a 10" on the right as well, not so much for a co-pilot but I can leave a full screen chart or wx map up when I fly. It's not too far away to see and interact with easily.


Aux Tank Thoughts....Mike Bauer

After reading an on-line article about aluminum tanks by Tony Bingelis (EAA Sport Aviation-Dec. 1986) decided to go for it.

The article mentions .040 to .050 aluminum for the tank. This is for a permanent mounted tank.

Thinking a portable tank might get banged around some; went with the .090. Besides an installed main tank will have supports, this portable needs to rely on itself. Bulging sides (hydraulic action) could flex and cause cracks in my mind.

Since it is temporary, the extra thickness doesn't really make a difference. Plenty strong and the aluminum is a little easier to weld. The extra weight is a non-issue for a temp.

Kevin, the TIG guy, did say the .090 was a perfect choice. Had already bought it getting ready to do my own welding. (Not very good on aluminum yet)

My tank had Zero leaks when Kevin was done TIG Welding it. I spent two days cleaning the mill off of the aluminum, then in about 45-minutes he TIG welded the whole thing using vertical welds.  -->



January 12, 2021.  Issue #5,254.

My RV Weekend ...various


P lead

I can't seem to find this anywhere on the forum so here goes. I have a Slick Magneto model 4313 with impulse coupling installed on the left side of my new factory delivered Lycoming O-360. While checking out my wiring I noticed that the P lead seems to have no resistance to ground.
1. Do I have the correct connector for the P lead: I am using the nut and the fiber washer on the top of the magneto for the P lead and the shield ground is the screw marked GND.
2. Does the p lead normally have no resistance to ground?
3. Why?

I think the part that I can't get around is the fact that you ground the P lead to stop the magneto from firing so why is it seem to be grounded already.


Two Muff Setup ...KeithB PIREP

I have a Vetterman exhaust with 2 muffs, but I also have a Superior cold air induction sump, so potentially different. I plumbed my air differently than Vans instructions because of these differences, but I'm happy with the result and do not have cowl interference, though some clearances are close.

Conceptually, from the intake on the ramp, I went through the fuel injection air intake tubes to the back of the sump to a T split, sending intake air to each muff located on separate final exhaust pipes (output of 2-to-1), then each muff's output goes to the separate heater vents.

Van's installation has muffs in series using heat from 2 of 4 cylinders splitting output air - my installation uses muffs in parallel using heat from 4 of 4 cylinders splitting input air.


Tightening RV8 NAS1804 Landing gear nuts ...Mikeyb tip

I made this offset socket to torque the nuts in the gear towers. It's a 12 point 7/16 socket driven by a 1/4" drive 9/16 crowfoot wrench and brazed tougher. The 1" offset allows you to reach under the vent lines. You do have to compensate for the offset in torque setting but it's pretty easy to use.



January 11, 2021.  Issue #5,253.

West Coast Formation Clinic (WCFC 2021) in Apr has been postponed indefinitely. ...AX-O

due to the current virus situation, the West Coast Formation Clinic (WCFC) for 2021 has been postponed indefinitely. The management team will re-evaluate the situation later on and determine if a WCFC is possible in the fall.


8A1 RV-12 Meetup ...Bob Costello

Three valiant members of Van's Air Force got our RV12's together for a photo op at 8A1 (Guntersville, Alabama)


Picture and a tale regarding ADS-B ...Brad Benson

...Anyway, a month or two ago on a return from a trip west, ATC put us in a nice bank right over the top of MSP at about 14,000 and I thought "If Pete Howell were here, he'd take a picture!". Unfortunately, taking pictures from the cockpit of an airliner are frowned upon by many and so it was instead stored away as an idea for later.

Last week the weather was amazing, and so I thought I'd go take that picture in my RV. Not wanting to deal with all the usual stuff around a class B airport, I figured out a route that'd keep me out of the way of the airline traffic and motored up to 12,500' - well above the 10,000' top of the MSP class B. My plan was to loop around KMSP once taking a bunch of pictures to sort out what I wanted later. Since it can be a busy airspace, aside from the ADS-B traffic displays I had departure and approach on the main and standby frequencies (I can listen to both at the same time) on com1 plus guard on com2.

Imagine my surprise when I hear "N164BL, Minneapolis Depature". Completely unsolicited. I never called them, nor was I ever required to talk to them as I never encroached on any airspace that required two way radio comms. Obviously, ATC had my N-number via ADS-B and I had no reason to not talk to them, so I answered. I had recognized the controller's voice and I think she recognized mine - it was a pretty friendly exchange and she was just curious what I was doing. It also helped, I think, when I explained that I was aware of and remaining clear of the WLSTN departure along with the BAINY, KILLR, and MUSCL arrivals.

They offered flight following for the return to KSGS; I accepted, and that was that. Pretty uneventful otherwise. But remember kids - the 'S' in 'ADS-B' stands for 'surveillance' :-)


Status Report ...jcarne

It has been awhile since I posted an update. Long story short after getting my engine back from the builder there was a problem with an impulse coupler on the left mag. This was after I had it aaaalllll hooked back up again. Here is the thread detailing that incident if you missed it. (pictures on second page) I sent the mag back to my builder for evaluation and eventually it will make it's way back to Champion. I'll update the findings later but at this point everything is pointing to a manufacturing defect.  -->

[ed. Sump on the kitchen counter.  That's one brave man, there. ;^).  dr]


Homebuilder's Week Heads Up ...vic_syracuse

Here are the links to a couple of my presentations during the EAA Homebuilder's Week, January 26-30. One will be on Buying a Used Homebuilt, and one will be on Condition Inspections.

The one on Buying will be different than in the past, in that I will not have any pictures. Just plan on helping you through the decisioning process, inspection, and ownership.

The CI webinar qualifies for Wings Credit.








Machined Label on Exterior Latch...rjcthree

I paid a six pack to machine this into the handle.


Fuel pump failure within the first hours ...KayS

Hi All,

my 7 has now 35 hours on it and it seems my mechanical fuel pump (Tempest AF 15473) fails. the transparent nylon tube at the overflow outlet showed blue avgas-colour from the beginning. i wasn't aware that this is a problem until lately. i understand now there's only fuel at the overflow when the lower diaphragm leaks. well, the entire project took much longer than expected so the pump was sitting dry for ten years, maybe that caused the problem. i do have some questions...

1. i assume that this failure is very critical, although i have a electrical boost pump. would you ground the aircraft for now?
2. do i have to replace the whole thing or is there a solution by just to replace the diaphragms? i don't know if the diaphragms are supposed to be replaceable. el cheapo as i am it would be nice if that's possible.

at 20 hours my skyview went down the drain and now that. phase 1 doesn't run extremly smooth i would say.

any help is very appreciated.



January 8, 2021.  Issue #5,252.
  Wishing you and yours a happy, safe and RV-filled weekend.
  (Need a DFW area contract pilot?)

Kitty Hawk Photo ...Lt Dan

Helps to have a friend with a good camera!


Hello! ...Monica checks in.

Just wanted to say hello and introduce myself. My name is Monica, I live in London and have just taken on an 'almost' finished RV14 project. I've owned a few aircraft, an RV6, a beautiful RV7 (that I imported from SC) and two Christen Eagles. Apart from relatively minor improvements/panel upgrades, I'm new to building, so, a bit of a step up which is quite scary.

Very much looking forward to being part of the RV14 build community and will no doubt be asking for all sort of advice and help along the way.


London, UK


First Flight Mr. William Mahon


RV-7 Builder Gets Sidetracked ...in a good way.

2020 was a bad year for a lot of reasons, but one bright spot for me personally is that over the course of the year I learned to fly helicopters. Back in January I had never even sat in one of these contraptions, and by Christmas I had earned my commercial helicopter pilot certificate with instrument rating. Due to the incredible expense I don't foresee myself doing any more helicopter flying just for recreational purposes, but this was a satisfying goal to accomplish.

It was also a lot harder than I thought it would be! It's barely an exaggeration to say that the only knowledge that's really transferable from airplane flying to helicopters is the general aeronautical knowledge stuff, and the only reusable skill is knowing how to talk on the radio.

To keep it RV-related, it's probably true that having experience with our airplanes and their quick, powerful controls is a net plus when transitioning to helicopters, even if there are still a lot of fixed-wing habits to be unlearned; flying ever-slower on final and landing flat without flaring feels very unsettling at first!  --->


Thoughts on my glass panel?  ..Mark 9A

I'm planning my RV-14 panel. As you see in my draft layout I have elected to use a 7" portrait G3X on the right side. My plan is to have an adjustable tilt of anywhere from 0-30 degrees towards the pilot. If i'm flying with another pilot it would sit flat. My experience from my last plane was that flying from left seat, the right glass panel isn't very easy to see and use - therefore putting a 10" panel there is not much use to me. Now one may argue that the pax or co-pilot would enjoy it. This layout has allowed me to preserved panel space to the right for a glove box and an iPad mount. Any thoughts or comments before I finalize my layout?


Oil Too Cold ...Scott Hersha PIREP

Some of us just have really cool running engines. My engine, like Don's runs cool. I tested my oil temp probe in a cup of water with two other thermometers and all three were within 3-4* of each other, and were that way all the way from starting to heat the water to when it got to 200*, so I'm confident my probe is OK. I'm running the standard Vans 7 row Stewart Warner style Aero Classic oil cooler.

If the OAT is below about 35*, I'll have the shutter completely closed, blocking all air at the front of the cooler, and the temp might get up to 160*. During some acro a few days ago, I saw 170*. I opened the shutter a couple clicks (Bowden cable) and within 2-3 minutes, the temp was down to 160, so I know the mechanism is working.

In the summer time, with no shutter installed I will typically see 175-185*. The most I've seen on very hot days after a long climb and some acro is 192*. I'm pretty happy with it.


No Foam Insulation please !

I have an RV in my workshop that had a landing incident that required all front and rear belly skins to be replaced.
This aircraft is only 3 years old and has only done 140hrs of flight time.

The builder elected to use Foam insulation throughout the aircraft including the firewall. He did a masterful job of sealing every nook and cranny of the lower skins.

The foam was a closed cell type that you can buy at any hardware store.

Problem 1
The foam was so well applied that it sealed in any moisture preventing the normal evaporation of condensation. Compounding this problem was that no skins or ribs were primed or treated with alodine. This was just bare alclad against alclad.
The accelerated corrosion was heartbreaking.


Messed up motor mount threads ...Jeff Wright RV-12

Man, sometimes i just hate this plane. There have been SO many little things and some big things too. Long shipping times, hanger rash, changes mid construction. It just seems to go on and on.

Now I finally received my 912IS (after waiting almost 6 months) and right off the bat there is an issue. The threads in the case for the upper left motor mount seem bad. First I thought it was the mount. And then I thought it was the bolt itself. So after trying another bolt I finally tried to screw the bare bolt into the case and it only goes in for a few turns then stops. WTF!

I'm kinda at a loss right now. Looking at the Rotax web site they direct you to a "dealer". And of course there are none anywhere near me. At this point I feel like taking a sledge to the whole dam project.

Any suggestions would be most appreciated.



January 7, 2021.  Issue #5,251. (Need a DFW area contract pilot?)

Old Thread Refresh ...First Flight to First Flight

(Krea Ellis) 
Old thread, but seemed like a good time to add a new post.

We have talked for some time about making the journey as our first overnight trip and we were finally able to make it happen. Glad to have the instrument ticket and a plane IFR equipped. Sirius-XM and FIS-B weather was extremely useful in making a change in fuel stops on the way home.

The Wright Brothers Monument is one of those places any aviation enthusiast should visit. Flying into FFA in an airplane we built was a wonderful experience.



Al Karpinski's VS Tip Camera Setup

I had to give it a shot mounting a camera with audio in the top of the empennage... Seemed like a cool place to mount one..

If we can just get some good sunny weather here in upstate NY to really check it out.. But it looking good..


Brake Pedal Alignment ...BobbyLucas

Page 28iS/U-02...

Step 4 has you clamp the torque tube assembly to the work surface and then lock the rudder pedals into the neutral position. The result is that the rudder pedals are not vertical, i.e. not perpendicular to the work surface, rather they are canted in toward each other at ~4.5-6 degrees from vertical.

Step 6 then says "Use a square to make sure both the WD-1209 and WD-01206-1 are vertical (or perpendicular to the work surface), then clamp the brake pedals to the rudder pedals as shown."

As described in step 4, the setup does not allow the rudder pedals to be "vertical (or perpendicular to the work surface)."

So were we meant to unclamp the assy from the work surface in order to align everything vertical with a square, so that the brake and rudder pedals are parallel?

Or are the brake pedals supposed to be vertical while the rudder pedals are canted-in, resulting in the brake pedals not being parallel with the rudder pedals?

...or is the neutral angle of the brake pedals a matter of comfort/preference?

Hmm, so maybe I was focusing on the wrong part of the torque tube assembly being vertical...

Now I'm thinking that it's the two center brackets that are supposed to be vertical and not the rudder pedals themselves?

So center brackets vertical, rudder pedals canted-in, and brake pedals vertical.

Yeah, I think that makes sense now for the controls to be in the neutral position


Glare shield edging ...various

Hi everyone. Building the 14A and wondering what you're using for the glare shield edge. Checked McMaster Carr and can't find anything that would look good, thanks Denni



January 6, 2021.  Issue #5,250. (Need a DFW area contract pilot?)


Thanks again for goofing off at work.  I'll continue trying my hardest to bring you a quality product.  dr


Transient oil pressure spike ...rv6n6r RV-6

A few times in the last 20 hours, during taxi out on the first flight of the day, my oil pressure has spiked briefly over redline. If I pull the throttle all the way back it goes below redline and if I wait a few minutes all will be fine again including runup and throughout the flight.

Troubleshooting guides point to wrong grade of oil for the temps or a stuck vernatherm. This has happened with OATs in the mid 40s to low 60s. Oil is Aeroshell W-100, with Camguard added so it shouldn't be that. I pulled the vernatherm and all looks clean, the ball and seat are smooth. I put a copper wire down the oil channel to the sump, there didn't seem to be any obstructions, comes out clean with no gunk on it. Last oil change I checked the sump screen which was clean, as was the oil filter.

The only oddity I can find is that the vernatherm spring has a flat worn on one coil, see picture. Also looking into the body of the Vernatherm, there does seem to be some wear in a spring coil pattern.

My questions are, could that flat and coil wear be indicative? Seems like that wouldn't do it but what do I know. Also if my oil pressure spiked that much (143PSI) for a short period could it cause damage I don't know about? I've had the cowl off since and there are no blown seals or anything as far as I can tell. Other than this it continues to run like a top. This is a Lycoming O-360-A1A with C/S prop.


They Know About Shrinkage, Right?

Q: Elevator foam trailing edge rib tips ...stigaro

While I didn't make this mistake, I could see how it could occur. I have access to a 11x17" printer and was able to make a printout of the foam cutout templates from the digital .pdf files on Van's website. After making sure the templates were the correct size (be sure to print "Actual Size"), I noticed that the paper plans provided by Van's were printed about 95% scale. So, had I used the actual page 09-29 templates as supplied (or a photocopy), the ribs would be too small. So don't assume the paper plans you receive from Van's to have the correct page scaling. Maybe some do, mine didn't.

On another note, in my empennage kit, I was provided 5 PVC foam blocks, 4 were 5.25" long and the 5th was only 4" long. I'm not sure if this is how Van's is supplying these blocks now or if was just unlucky, but after some repositioning, I did manage to get all 3 ribs to fit the 4" block, but it's pretty tight. I used a hot wire to cut these out as I'm not sure a bandsaw would have worked.

A: (rvbuilder2002)
There are a lot of reasons that a paper drawing can be out of scale.

A major one that people are not typically aware of is shrinkage or expansion of the paper due to changes in temp and humidity.

The amount of change can be significant depending on the conditions delta compared to when it was originally printed.

That is one of the reasons for the scaling reference being present on all drawings that are have full scale templates printed. It should always be cross checked before using as a template for any critical fit parts.

All of the processes described in the manual have been (test kitchen) tested in our shop, so I can assure you that the foam cuts very nicely on a band saw, assuming it is performing reasonably (no weird tracking on the blade, etc.).


UV Dye Leak Test ...Freemasm

Fuel Lube (now called EZ turn) on the gas cap O rings for the leak test. You'll be needing it at some point for other applications anyway. A great product.

Different note: I leak tested mine with UV dye added to ethanol free car gas before the back plate was installed and again afterward. There's no mistaking a leak or it origin. Didn't have any real ones, thank goodness. Be warned, the fuel will wick along the skins. In the photo, it did so to the unriveted backplate holes. Darn near *&^$ myself before I realized what had happened. Good luck.


Quandary with elevator tips--what would you do? ...tdragger1966

Recently purchased a nearly complete RV-10 tail kit and started work on Section 11. Started with bolting the h-stab to the work bench, setting rod end bearings and attaching the elevators. Both elevator tips interfered with the outboard ribs/skin of the h-stab. Prior builder never got this far so likely never noticed. After much head scratching and inspection it appears they are not straight but progressively "toe in" towards the stab (see attachments). Tried adjusting the rod end bearings but didn't provide enough relief. Asked Van's but they seemed perplexed. Have an EAA Tech Counselor coming this weekend but wanted to get some more opinions.

There's not enough edge distance to simply trim the elevators so I *think* the best solution is to drill out all the rivets in the counterweight skins, try to straighten the ribs while still riveted to the rest of the elevator and attach a new skin (assuming the holes will no longer align). How would you folks address this


Door latch pin plates ...rdamazio RV-10

Hi everyone.

On page 45-17, the plans have you fabricate and install the fwd/aft latch pin plates around the pins. I'm wondering: are those still necessary if using the McMaster seal and the Planearound pin blocks (which are larger/fill the gap properly)? I don't really understand their purpose, so it's hard to tell.



January 5, 2021.  Issue #5,249. (Need a DFW area contract pilot?)

Vlad's Ring In the New Year Flights...many pics


Van's Aircraft - Temporary Shipping Dept Closure Through January 15th ...mothership

"Due to a recent, unfortunate COVID-19 exposure event, we have sent our parts and hardware shipping team home for a 14-day quarantine period. That means we have only a couple of people in place to try to support a workload that is normally staffed by more than 10 individuals.

As a result, our shipping department is currently considered to be closed until January 15th, with the exception of bonified emergency shipments. If you have an aircraft stranded on the ground or another similarly legitimate emergency need, we will do the very best we can to help you out. Note that this closure primarily affects shipments of RV parts, accessories, and hardware. We will continue to ship RV kits (larger crated items), which are packed and managed by a different team. If we discover cases where certain kit-related items cannot be included we will backorder those individual items, if and when necessary, and ship them to you when available.

Note that during this period our shipping team will not be able to answer their phone. Instead, if you have an urgent need, please email shipping@vansaircraft.com and include your order number and other specifics in your email.

We will continue to take web and phone orders during this time, but be aware that we will not be able to ship non-priority orders on our normal schedule. From a practical perspective, for the time being we will not be able to accurately quote shipping timeframes for orders affected by this closure delay. We're working to partially staff the department during this period, but will not be able to achieve the same throughput until our staff returns. At that time, the team will have a backlog of shipments to get out and we will, of course, work hard to make that happen as quickly as we are able.

Please understand that this is a complicated time for us all, and especially difficult for the people who are working here to try to keep things running. We ask that you please be patient and considerate in dealing with our staff, as they're all under a lot of pressure right now to keep things afloat and moving.

We truly appreciate you and will do the very best we can, given the unusual circumstances. Thanks in advance for your support and understanding. We'll get through this together."

- The Van's Aircraft team


Trip to Grandma's ...AV8ER RV-10

Los Angeles KWHP to Dallas T31
Loaded up the family and a few bags (the RV-10 is a bottom less pit when loading bags) to start the trek home from Grandma's house.


RV-8 Status Picst ...D Weisgerber (Michigan)


First Flight


New Years Day Flight ...Erimo (France)


CAVU from 22,000 Miles Up. ...so says GOES-East.

Lot of RVating in Texas Monday as you might suspect.  Light winds and 55F.  A little band of snow out west still on the ground from a few days back, but that's melting fast.  Western CO looks pretty snowy.  One of the nicer days in TX here in awhile.

Dense cool air and sharp horizons.  Many RVs in the sky.  Good times.


Avionics Installation for Experimental Aircraft Course - January 27-29, 2021 ...Brad at Garmin

Greetings VAF!

Once again the Aircraft Electronics Association will be hosting an Avionics Installation for Experimental Aircraft Course on January 27-29, 2021. The class will take place at the AEA headquarters in Lee's Summit, MO (Kansas City suburb). For complete details and registration information, please visit the AEA Course Website.

This has been a popular training opportunity that includes hands-on wiring and avionics installation fundamentals, heavily focused on the Garmin G3X Touch system. Many VAF members have attended this course in the past! It is a 3-day course at a registration cost of $499. There are a limited number of spots available and space fills quick!

*COVID guidelines and social distancing measures will be in place for the class/facility.*

Let us know if you have any questions!

Best Regards,




January 4, 2021.  Issue #5,248.
  Hope you had a nice weekend and got to spend quality time with your RV.  And so starts another year - many RV flights in the books starting day one (below).  On a milestone note, the site here should get its 30,000th registered forum account today or tomorrow.  Some portion of that have moved on to other hobbies or passed on, but that's the nature of the gig.  Nice round number, though!
  I even got in a little .5 flight around the area Sunday in the RV!  A little cross-windy here, but no clouds and a sharp horizon.  Felt wonderful.
  Have a great week!
(Need a DFW area contract pilot?)

New Years Flights - add your flight ...Dvalcik gets it started

Thought I would start off a thread for first flights for 2021. Hope weather is better where you are but I did get to sneak off for a 50 min flight. 29 degrees and gloomy in the Philly area.


My trip to Branson MO ...bhester

Last weekend I did a little trip to Branson, MO. I updated my website with the trip report, nothing crazy just a nice little trip, check it out! Near the bottom of the page under Dec 2020.


2020 Eagles Nest Christmas Picture

Wisconsin Eagles Nest project added its 2020 Bah Humbug Grinch picture to its historical Christmas pictures of past. Sometimes you are to busy on framing the picture and you don't notice the reflection in the background. I love the reflection of our third plane "F3 Tercel" and our American Flag in the background.


Initial Wing Fit: Milestones=Motivation ...ryan RV-7

Trying to get as much done in my home garage on my RV7 project before I need to worry about moving to a hangar. I have some great experienced helpers close by that made this a very easy process yesterday morning.

I'll do all the work I can with the wings on, then remove them for later permanent install at the airport.

Next steps after the wings will be to permanently mount the tail pieces, then install the gear and hang the engine, all in the home garage.


FAA Safety Briefing (Jan/Feb)


When there's no room for Clecos ...Freemasm

Sorry if something similar was previously submitted. It's new to me (original thought even) Sometimes, clecos get in the way; think match marking butt splice edges when skins intentionally left "long" for fit-up.These super cheap pull rivets work well. All aluminum including the stem so they drill out super easy when done. The "dome" heads pull pretty flat so their probably the only ones needed. Certainly worth having a stash for build circumstances most haven't encountered yet. It certainly cut down the iterations required with making a tight butt joint. Just a thought. Best of luck.


Oregon Coast / public benefit flying ...Randall Henderson RV-6

Feature on the North Coast Land Conservancy's website highlighting my flying for that organization and LightHawk... nice to be able to do some "good works" with my plane


System Schematic Porn

In my quest to be the nerdiest sim rat on earth, I spent a few hours over the weekend gathering screen grabs from various AFM and POH manuals for my Phenom side gig.  Grabbed 'em, cropped 'em and hosted in a private SmugMug folder so I can re-arrange and group them in the order I want (Hydraulics, Electrics, System Logic, etc).  Checked the box to be able to view offline.  Auto-populates to my iPhone and iPad.

So the RV tie in......I'm thinking I can compile something similar for all of the schematics relevant my RV-6.  Avionics, P-mags, ELT, govenor, etc.  There are several dozen nicely illustrated logic schematics and more that might be useful to have in a single folder in my pocket at all times.  I'll let you know if it pans out.   A small grab of some of the 60+ illustrations I built up for the Phenom below... 

Anyone prepping for initial or recurrent might find this appealing.