February 26, 2021. Issue #5,287.
Wishing you and yours a happy, safe and RV-filled weekend.
a Contract SIC? Use Me!
Well, only one more big milestone left I suppose!
Followed by mass quantities of fun I hope!
The DAR inspection went great! I had everything ready for
him and a lot of the paper work was taken care of before he
even got there. His help in dealing with making changes in
AWC was big!
Tim Mikus did a great inspection on the plane and the 2.5
hours he was there was quite a joy actually; had some great
conversation during the process. He said the work looked
great and the only thing he found was that there needed to
be labels on the throttle, prop, and mixture controls. No
biggy to add.
It sure was a rough journey to get to this point at times
but I'm glad that one is behind me now! Next up, transition
training in a little over a week and then first flight!
The sky was on
fire last night ...AX-O
Took Dilemma out yesterday. Parked the airplane and went
to grab the towbar. Looked back at the plane and had one of
those OMG moments.
for airplane noises! ...Scott 14A
Fuse is finished. Just in time to find out about the
sweat snafu for some of the QB wings. Hopefully not mine
since i was planning to start assembling them next month.
Surgery and Building On... or derailed?
Does anyone know how soon after prostate surgery (radical
prostatectomy via da Vinci robot) it is possible to resume
The generic medical advice says it is OK to drive after
about 1 week; return to light duties after 2-3 weeks; and
avoid strenuous activity for 6 weeks. That would seem to
imply that "building on" could resume after 3-6 weeks, and
so the project would not need to be mothballed long term. Is
that realistic? I would appreciate hearing advice from
anyone who has "been there", which could be quite a few of
us VAF fellas (based on the statistics).
Eleven Hours of Night in 1.2 Hours.
61.159 (paragraph b) "A person who has performed at
least 20 night takeoffs and landings to a full stop may
substitute each additional night takeoff and landing to a
full stop for 1 hour of night flight time to satisfy the
requirements of paragraph (a)(2) of this section; however,
not more than 25 hours of night flight time may be credited
in this manner."
Per the above, I logged 11 hours of night Wednesday evening, and
each landing got better as the
night went on (movie
here doesn't show the stops, but they were there).
Shared the pattern with a couple other planes, so a couple
of 360s got thrown in for spacing. Keeping the power in a little until
touchdown helped lessen the bounces. I'm currently using the
original fog/landing lights from 18 years ago (LED setup enroute). Got a pic
of the 'Before' to compare with 'After' down the road.
Current rig just barely comfortable at my home strip 52F (KAFW
is a light farm - might as well have been noon).
I'm night current and 11 hours closer to the 100 required
for the ATP requirement. Goal-oriented baby steps...
February 25, 2021. Issue #5,286.
a Contract SIC? Use Me!
Shots ...it begins
(smokyray) Here's my post of my RV4 in action way back
when over the ID backcountry taken by my good friend and F16
squadron bro "Chuck" from his dialed in Cessna 180K.
Chuck texted it to me last week when we swapped low temp
comparisons between TX and where he lives, AK....We agreed,
Hersha) A little formation action in my RV4 with Bruce
Brielmaier, and Larry (Skater) Wolf:
AN818-6D Torque Values
I'm installing fuselage fuel lines and looking for some
clarity on torque values for the fittings. Specifically I'm
looking for torque values for both the AN924-6D jam nut on
the AN833-6D 90-degree elbow and the AN818-6D B-nut on the
3/8" flared tubing.
In the Standard Aircraft Handbook, p.203, Table 7-19, it
specifies for aluminum alloy tubing, bolt fitting or nut a
torque of 75-125 in/lbs for any -6 size hardware. This
torque value would seem to apply to ALL aluminum -6D sized
However, in AC43.13, Ch 9 Hydraulic Systems, Table 9-2 it
specifically mentions AN818 nuts. It specifies for aluminum
alloy tubing a torque of 110-130 in/lbs for a -6D nut. The
lower range is significantly higher then the 75-125 in/lbs
value in the Standard Aircraft Handbook.
Can anyone shed some light on the correct values for each
type of -6D nut? And given the wide torque range each
reference gives what initial torque value should I go for on
each nut? Lower range? Middle?
Thanks for your time and advice.
(regarding mis-dimpled hole - the kind we've all made)
Back in the days when I was building Vans included a special
rivet for mishaps like that. You had to sift through
thousands of them to find it though... Nowadays, sorry you
have to buy the whole new empennage kit...<g>
Cole Melby is
In love. I've been able to fly my new-to-me 6a now
for about 16 hours and it is an absolute blast to fly. My
drools over the last several years wanting one were
A friend and I flew to Half Moon Bay and back yesterday in
perfect weather. It was my first chance at seeing the sea
level performance (150hp fp cruise prop) and I was airborne
at 60kts in roughly 700ft at around 1500lbs. That was by far
the most fun takeoff I've ever had. Too bad I don't get
quite the same performance at 4700ft lol.
Additions to Mothership First Flight Section
Getting Fitted ...Kentlik 7A Rebirthing
I haven't put her on the gear yet, I am vertically challenged and it is
way easier to work on her when she is lower...
February 24, 2021. Issue #5,285.
a Contract SIC? Use Me!
fairings and support ...welcome new guy Gary (first
Old time -6 here (s/n 38) first batch out of the factory.
I'm flying after decades of building and stuff. I've got
stiffeners on the gear legs and fiberglass over that. No
aluminum. Struggling to keep the leg fairing (not end but
whole assembly) from twisting and moving up and down the
leg. Might be too stiff, not sure. I'm looking for some good
pictures of what you have, how to keep things from moving up
and down the steel legs, etc. I've got original made end
fairing too. After landing the whole gear leg fairing will
Thanks for you assistance.
Gary N38GK NH
There is an aluminum "Tee" that is riveted to the fairing
and has a flange that sticks out and that is what get's hose
clamped to the gear leg itself. This is at the top. THen
when you get the fairings aligned with the aircraft, you are
supposed to put some "Great Stuff" foam up inside the
fairing at each end. Only about 2" on each end should be
enough to hold it in place. If you gear leg is primed and
painted, or powder coated, you don't have to worry about
moisture corrosion under the foam. Don't put too much foam
in there or it won't allow the leg fairing to flex and it
break your fairing.
I put stiffners on my gear legs and wrapped with fiberglass.
On the larger engine RV's it helps with gear leg splaying
out and shimmy. Also keeps the intersection fairing from
being shaken apart.
My fiberglass fairings over stiffeners on my -4 migrated
downward for no apparent reason, and after re-setting them a
few times I discovered the AFT upper corner of the fairing
(where the hinge runs) was contacting the fuselage when the
gear flexed AFT. it moves WAY more than you can imagine,
often just taxiing. I trimmed mine at an angle from the gear
leg down and AFT so it just barely was in the cuff fairing
and the problem stopped.
who has that skybolt tool?
.... it came out that for my specific skybolt setup a
special tool is needed. there's no other way to adjust the
in-depth of the receptacles. problem is that this tool (that
came with the fasteners kit ordered in 2010) was lost in the
chaos of past 11 years.
with that kind of problems you usually just contact the
supplier and let them send you a new tool. but skybolt tells
me that it's not available anymore. they say just order a
new set and install it. for several reasons i don't want to
go that route.
so my last hope is that someone here with the same setup
would borrow that tool to me. the idea is to try to copy the
i would cover all costs and return the tool asap with a gift
basket from bavaria. any help is really, really, really
here are the pictures of the two tools I have - let me know
if you think these will help and I'll get them in the mail
to you tomorrow.
I live near Lausanne, and my RV-8 is based in LSGY. My
German-speaking friends all tell me that my German hurts
their ears, so I usually stick with French or English!
How to pick up
manifold pressure for the P-Mag ...Tomas_J
I'm installing dual P-mag's in my RV-4 and thinking of
the best way to get the manifold pressure. I'm thinking of
installing a DISCHARGE NIPPLE AN4022-1 in cylinder #3 or #4
primer port, and use a AN FITTINGS AN824-2D TEE to split the
pressure for both ignitions. Or is it better to give the
ignitions manifold pressure from separate cylinders, use
both #3 and #4 and skip the tee?
But what about the fluctuates in pressure? Will they affect
the ignitions? Can the discharge decrease that effect? Is
there an alternative and better place to get manifold
pressure on a Lycoming 320 with Marvel carburator?
Hersha) Here's a pic of my install. Braided line
to an AN fitting/aluminum line - to a T (blue on the
firewall manifold), feeding the MAP sense probe, and also to
the Pmags. The nylon T in the silicone line to the two Pmags
Kits - Review Announcement ...Mothership
Van's staff has been working the past couple of weeks to
review a few reports of surface corrosion being seen on
quick build kits received by customers in the second half of
2020. We will be communicating this morning with a specific,
defined group of customers who received QB kits from us,
where the QB kits were received from the assembler by Van's
between this past June and January. The purpose of reaching
out to those customers is to ask them to complete a set of
assessment steps and report their results (photos and info)
to us so we can catalog each kit's results and, if and where
needed, help take care of any issues.
Please note that the scope of this review is limited to
those kits received by Van's from our QB assembly contractor
between June 2020 and January 2021.
Below is the text of our announcement. It's important to us
at Van's to deliver a quality product and take care of our
dimpled a new hole through the skin
Is this oops salvageable? Or am I buying a new horizontal
stabilizer skin? [ed. Josh, I
have a hole just like that on my HS. Hasn't slowed me
down yet <g>. v/r,dr]
I use a cheap Dymo P-touch label maker for the label then
slide clear shrink wrap over it. Looks great and makes
future maintenance or repair significantly easier.
February 23, 2021. Issue #5,284.
First RV time off the surface in (17) days Monday. Yay! KXBP for gas so I'll be
topped off for some night time logging later this week
hopefully, WX permitting. AeroLED lights enroute for
upgrade. Steep turns on the way back - wind from the
bottom left, you gotta believe me <g>. Two RVs flew in to
see GLO Monday a.m. (8 and 14A). Back to normal
mostly (lots of talk around of home repairs in progress).
a Contract SIC? Use Me!
RV-10 this weekend! ...Ryan Bliss
Just want to share my news with the group on my first
official day as an RV-10 owner. I had quite possibly the
best two days of my aviation life this past weekend. My
dream plane has been the RV-10 since I started flying 3
years ago, but I knew that finding one would be very
difficult as 50% of RV-10's are sold by word of mouth and
the other 50% that are listed on Trade-A-Plane, Controller,
Barnstormers, etc., are usually sold within hours of being
I reached out to John Stewart to let him know that I'm on
the hunt for an RV-10 and the very next day John also
received a call from David Jones about selling his 2007
RV-10. John connected us and the rest is history.
Vic Syracuse performed the pre-buy inspection on Saturday
and N331DJ passed with flying colors and the test flights
were a pure joy. I'm a low-time private pilot (215 hours)
with HP and Complex endorsements and I have time in multiple
aircraft (Warrior, Arrow, 172, 182, SR20, RV-12, Beech
Sierra, DA40) and have enjoyed flying all of them, but OMG
that RV-10 is another category of flying machine!! I was
absolutely blown away with the harmony, response, SPEED,
comfort, view from the cockpit and efficiency of this
aircraft. As you can probably tell, I'm still riding high
from my experience this weekend.
I look forward to getting to know everyone on
VansAirForce.net and flying with local RVators in the New
England area. My home field will be KRUT in Rutland VT.
Thank you to Van's for designing such an amazing aircraft,
to David Jones for building and maintaining N331DJ to such a
high standard and to Vic Syracuse for his guidance and
expertise with the pre-buy!!
A Way To Find
Valve Stem When Adding Air
There are many ways to "skin" this cat - but this is one
that I have used:
Use your borescope, connected to a truncated wooden (cork or
?) cone, with a hole in the middle for your 'scope camera,
and sized to wedge into access hole in WP.
Bring up the 'scope image on your phone - roll the airplane
forward (or back) until valve stem is centered. Voila!
Status Report ...kentlik
HS Mounted. Moving on to the VS, hope I can find
all the parts...
Engine Hung ...Mark in PA
Hung my Thunderbolt IO-390 EXP119 a few months ago. This
weekend i mounted the Prop. I'll get more shots after I
screw on spinner and remove the plastic - this is just a
teaser. Thanks to Jeff and team at TB for beautiful engine.
February 22, 2021. Issue #5,283.
-1*F here last Tuesday. 72*F five days later (a bit of a Δ).
I considered going out to fly the RV Sunday, but it was an 80*
crosswind gusting 21. Maybe today - been too long.
Hope you had a nice weekend, your pipes didn't bust and the
power is ON.
a Contract SIC? Use Me!
RV-12iS Project Takes Flight
In all 31 students helped with the project over the 3+
year build. We met twice per week for two hours...plus three
trips to Oshkosh, a covid delay, etc...it took a while but
the students and mentors persevered.
All the credit goes to the student builders and mentors.
Filed Under 'Office Decorations' ...J_Long
It is becoming quite the lounge, wish I had some blue
taxiway lamps to accent it. The empennage is hanging in the
more serious workspace: my wife's and my covid-days home
Insp. Coming Up This Week ...jcarne
Well I'm currently waiting on my airworthiness inspection
which should be Tuesday of this week. It was supposed to be
two days ago but we had to resubmit the application to the
FAA in order to make some changes. The new AWC system isn't
too bad but it is TERRIBLE if you need to make any
changes!!! Good thing my DAR has a contact at the FAA
because he had to call them to cancel the old one.
In the meantime I realized that A. I have nothing better to
do at this point and B. I forgot to post pictures of the new
Here is the new setup on top of the engine. Sooooo glad that
I can get a socket AND the torque wrench in there to tighten
them plugs now without taking any baffle pieces apart!
of Short Tubing Sections - w/o a Lathe
Here is a simple (and fairly accurate) way to enlarge the
bore of short sections of tubing - maybe used as a bushing
or something similar, without the benefit of the precision
of a lathe.
This tip is only as good as the alignment of your drill
press - if its off, the resultant hole will not be
concentric with the o.d.
Make a wooden (ideally oak, maple or some other hard wood)
holding fixture as shown in the photo.
Position the tubing section so that the bottom is flush with
the bottom of the fixture, and tighten securely with the
Set the drill stop at slightly more than 1/2 the "thru"
distance, bore to the stop, maintaining contact of the
fixture with the press table.
Loosen cross bolt and push tubing thru fixture until drilled
portion is flush with fixture face, re-tighten cross bolt,
flip fixture over (un-enlarged end now up), and drill to
"stop". This step is to minimize the built in "out of true"
aspect of drill press.
The result isn't perfect, but may be good enough for the
If there is a need to have different bores at each end,
maybe using the tubing as a connector for two different size
diameters, bore each half slightly less than 1/2 the depth.
This will generate a stop face between the two diameters.
What gets ink off the seat?
Probably a lot of people did this ink Stain on the vynal
seat. I'm not sure what to use To remove it. Anyone know
what to us?
Around CO/UT Friday ...Greg Arehart 9A
AeroSportProducts Cowl Pin Cover Installation ...Tom
Q; Anybody have any instructions or tips on how to incorporate these into
Dynon A/P Install on a RV-3A
Q: I have a Dynon EFIS-10A and servos are $750 for each
axis autopilot - so $1500 to add it. They have mounting kits
for the 4,6,8, but not the 3. Does any of them work for the
A: Yup. (David Paule) I used the standard Dynon
wing mount kit for the roll axis, and made my own pitch
servo mount. For connecting to the pitch bellcrank, I used
Dynon's generic mount kit. Here's the pitch servo. I
don't seem to have a photo of the roll servo installation
but it's fairly stock.
Whistling at 150 KIAS .. any ideas?
I know my little RV wants to grow up to be a F4U Corsair, aka "Whistling
Death" ...it's developed a pronounced whistle at 145-150 kts. It's a clean
tone ~800 Hz, (~ A above middle C for musical types), significantly loud,
and not a vibration; it's some cavity resonating in the airflow.
I initially thought is was something in the gear fairings, with the little
cuts to allow the removal of the pants and root fairings. Played with duct
tape thought I found the issue at the gear fuse fairing. Liquid shimmed the
gap and made those nice and tight now, but it's still there. Yawing, etc,
makes some difference, but nothing magical
Other threads have suggested the tail fairing and the cutouts around
elevator attach points (rudder I suppose as well), which I'll check.
Anyone else have a baby Corsair on their hands as well? Any success finding
your whistle? Any anecdotal info would help to prioritize where to look.
We have a lot YAKs on our field, and I don't want them to hear me coming up
on their 6...
February 19, 2021. Issue #5,282.
One last day of solid white stuff on the ground here. Near freezing
Thursday and clearing skies have started our melt. Several
hangars out at our field had water running out of them so a few
of us found the cut off boxes and at least stopped the flow.
Checked in on the RV-6 - no cracks in the plexi best I could see
at a quick glance. Gonna be a busy next few days fixing
pipes in the area and cleaning up. Yuck.
Wishing you and yours a warm, ice-free, above-freezing, power ON, water
working, safe, happy and RV-filled weekend.
a Contract SIC? Use Me!
POWER OUTAGE CLOSURE INFORMATION ...Mothership
The Van's business offices will remain closed on Friday,
February 19th to allow our staff to recover from a
significant regional power outage that resulted from a major
winter storm over the past weekend. We will not have
telephone or in-person services available on Friday. Our
website and web store will remain available. We plan to
reopen for normal business activity on Monday morning,
Power was restored to our factory on Thursday evening.
Therefore, Van's employees should report to work at the
factory on Friday morning. Office staff should also report
to work to complete the move-in of the newly remodeled
office area, which was completed while the power is out.
This power outage was the result of a major ice storm that
resulted in many downed transmission power lines, feeder
lines and trees across the northwestern Oregon region.
Utility crews are working to make repairs and restore power,
but the damage is widespread. Many Van's employees have been
without power at their homes since Friday evening and remain
without power today.
We will update with any new information as it becomes
Elevator Spar Cracks
I'm getting ready to perform the service bulletin that
repairs the cracks in the elevator spar. I have cracks
emanating from the upper and lower rivets that hold the nut
plates for the outboard rod end on each elevator.
I'm at the point where I need to drill out the rivets.
Normally, when drilling out a rivet, one drills enough to
snap off the head and then punch out the rivet. I fear using
this procedure to drill out these particular rivets will
result in bending the nut plate ear out of the way and
leaving the shop head buried in the nut plate ear. I think
even normal drilling pressure could mess things up since the
only thing holding the nut plate in place is the rivet in
the opposite ear.
I could figure out a way to to keep some pressure on the nut
plate against the interior doubler of the spar while I
drill. I could do this by threading in the rod end bearing
with the jam nut back in instead of using the nut plate
holding tool. Once the rivets are drilled out and the nut
plate held with Clecos, I could then use the nut plate
holding tool and proceed with the rest of the SB.
So what have you done? Did you run into any problems
drilling out those rivets? Did you drill, snap off the head,
and punch out the shank or did you simply drill all the way
pitch trim indicator
I need to add the pitch trim indicator to my PFD (GDU 470
touch). When in config mode, I have green check marks in all
the right boxes except "PTRIM". It just skips over this box
while scrolling through the various points. It won't let me
"click" on it.
If your system has a "PTRIM" entry in the Device List on the
System Information page, it means you incorrectly enabled a
pitch trim GSA 28 servo in the LRU configuration.
While you might have a typical pitch trim motor in your
plane, you probably are not using a separate GSA 28 servo
for pitch trim.
Make sure that both roll and pitch trim servos are disabled
on this page.
Pretty Sweet Shop Setup
What Sam said. Fire up the welder...here's your towbar. I
use this one with a golf cart or my pickup.
February 18, 2021. Issue #5,281.
a Contract Embraer Phenom 300 SIC? Use Me!
Wings DONE! ...Jeff Long RV-7
Finally finished my last wing skin rivet (besides tips
and body fairing). Now to figure out how to store both wings
in my basement shop and start reconfiguring my small
adjacent garage shop for the SB body construction, expected
to arrive hopefully in May..
My RV Weekend ...Jerry and Axel
Early morning takeoff 7L KDVT. Not to make you Texans
feel bad but early morning in Arizona can be great flying.
Went to Payson and on the return there was plenty of snow,
but not as much as Texas.
Chase duties this weekend for a first flight on Justin
Took our dog Ziggy camping in the RV. He was a bit
apprehensive prior to takeoff. Once in the air, he put
on the Vans Grin just like always...
Info ....click the link for the latest info.
Recessed Dynon HDX ...some people doing it.
I set my HDX recessed into the panel by making "Z" brackets
and cutting the panel opening to fit the bezel periphery. It
helped minimize the overhang over my switches.
[ed. And check out those switch
I made STL files if you want them. ShapeWays wants $245 for
the bezel and $62 for the knob portion only. I didn't have
What about using styrofoam or wood or poster-board and
fabricate with ref to views in the installation manual
I came up with a blind area using SolidWorks... images
below. I'm showing a 1/2" dimension for the blind area and
if you made it 3/4" it would be quite conservative IMO.
Classic Aero Designs Phone/Internet Down ...Wed 1900Z
Our Phone and Internet are down as of sometime last night.
Comcast says there is a large outage in our area, and they
don't know when we will be back online. If you have
something urgent, send a PM, and I will try to respond when
I am able.
I am accessing VAF from home. I'm not too up on accessing
VAF through my phone, but I'll give it a try to check PMs.
I'm very sorry for the inconvenience.
Classic Aero Designs
No carb heat at
cruise speeds ...Tim E. RV-4
Another dumb question from the new owner. I have carb heat via one of
these heat muffs, connected straight to the opening of my airbox (no
standoff type adapter, since there's no ram air I suppose).
On the ground and at low speeds in flight, it's effective -- I see several
degrees of temperature rise on my carb temp gauge. But at cruise, I don't
see any temperature change at all.
Is it possible the ram air speed at cruise is forcing the door open? Or does
the brain trust have any other ideas? Flying around here in the PNW with no
carb heat in winter sketches me out. I should never have installed that temp
gauge, then I would have remained blissfully ignorant (I don't think I've
ever actually had ice in it)!
How Know Which
Mag Wire Connect To Which Cylinder ...PhatRV
I have a Slick magneto with impulse coupler on the left side of the
engine. How can I know which wire goes to which cylinder? From what I can
find this is what I "think" the sparkplug wiring should be. However, is
there a way to find out with certainty which wire goes to which cylinder
from looking at the magneto?
I've search the Champion website and could not find the documentation other
than the sales brochures. The picture is from Lycoming M1A engine. However,
various Lycoming docs only show a doodle of the wiring but do not explain
how to know which wire goes where.
Thanks in advance.
Hinge Eye Replacement ...HFS
Here is a simple way of replacing those hinge eyes, at
the end of a segment that seem to break off (with some
Just turn a new piece of hinge over (doesn't have to be the
same material - can be SS or steel for more "durability").
Add "gap" spacer in between to align hinge pin. Drill/deburr
and rivet together.
Worked for me on my -4 some 20+ years ago. I replaced the
aluminum eyes with SS - never broke any of those.
February 17, 2021. 1500Z UPDATE
Mothership is closed today.
February 17, 2021. Issue #5,280.
A friend in Oregon sent me the pic below. Seems like a large
portion of the country is dealing with nasty WX issues. The
Mothership was closed Tuesday due to power outages (the planned
remodeling probably didn't get finished). I
think there is a chance Wednesday could be the same.
If they are closed and I get word from Greg I'll post a note in the 'Temp'
area of the forums. Houses on both sides of us have blown pipes
and it's snowing again here, so we're
riding herd on our faucets closely. A healthy dribble and
so far so good
and fingers crossed. The airport where our plane is has no
water and may not for a week.
Sure hope everyone is doing OK and safe. Nasty stuff this round.
a Contract Embraer Phenom 300 SIC? Use Me!
at Sawtooth Climb Tests ...Saville
"... I need more practice. Paul Dye generously suggested
a technique in another thread. I'll try that next time.
However, so as to not make the flight a total loss (not that
any flight in an RV is a waste), I also checked out the duck
hunting and fishing ponds (Crane and Pentucket ponds) to see
if the ice stretched to the shore. Lately it's been too warm
for any appreciable ice build up on these ponds but we've
had a cold snap. Would like to get a little ice fishing in.
Looked good Saturday but today it's warm and raining."
Parking Brake ...blaplante
Got my Hydraulic Parking Brake valve off eBay at a good
price. Was for some model Beechcraft. Still working fine.
All models are pretty much the same except the 4's and 8s
are tandem. These are pictures from an RV-6 install with a
T-cable on the wall.
This system only works for the pilot side anyway I think.
I've never tried from right side.
fracture in flight
My RV10 has 1470 hrs on a IO 540. It is maintained by my
A&P who has built two RVs and is familiar with the 100 hr AD
to inspect the fuel lines. So less than fifty hrs after
annual I experienced a ruff running engine suddenly with
power change an a immediate landing was made and fracture of
fuel line to # 2 cylinder and small crack #1 fuel line was
discovered. My question is has anyone else experienced this
or found cracks in their fuel lines? You can imagine I am
quite freaked out by the potential for fire from this so any
additional info I can collect will be welcomed
Update: Tail Mounting ...Kentlik
I have wanted to mount the HS for months but did not have
room in my garage as it was partitioned for work stuff. Now
I can get to it!
at SC55 - March 26 and 27, 20211
Looking to stir the pot a bit and get some folks out to a
fun destination in South Carolina.
Broxton Bridge Plantation - SC55 - South Carolina
My wife and I will be there on Friday evening, staying the
night in one of the houses on the Broxton Bridge Plantation.
We will be sitting around the camp fire and look forward to
spending time with some aviation friends, and making more.
RSVP via private message.
Landing fee $20 donation, covers lunch for you and your
Camping Friday night, bring your own food/beverages. Or just
come out Saturday for lunch.
Lunch is served Saturday morning, 11 am through about 1 pm
or when we run out of food in the afternoon.
Well maintained grass strip, 2600 feet, Rwys 01/19.
CTAF: 122.9. Look for a golf cart to follow for parking, get
a ride back to the kitchen for lunch.
Activities. Other than lunch there's a bass pond for
fishing, pistol shooting range, skeet shooting range and
lots of shade trees for hanging out and talking with new
I'm going to drive out to bring all the food, drinks and
supplies to support the lunch. I've got a couple rooms
reserved and will be bringing my family, fishing poles,
chocolate lab, and some food for Friday night around the
Check your favorite information source to find more
informtation on the runway or if you want to stay the night,
call Jerry Varn, the owner/operator.
We will be providing home made sloppy Joes, crock pot mac &
cheese, a veggie platter, a variety of beverages (sodas,
To make sure we prepare enough food in the kitchen there at
the B&B we will need an RSVP. We have plenty of parking for
lots of planes, plenty of seating inside and outside, we
just don't want to run out of food.
Send me a note via private message if you plan to attend so
I can keep track of how many are coming from this forum.
There are others who have been invited from other groups
too! The purpose of this fly out is to encourage aviators in
the South East to share a new experience in light of all the
cancellations of fly outs, airshows, etc going on.
Towbar Mod ...Carl Froehlich
Every "put the little wheel between the rods" type tow
bar i tried proved to be close to useless as the tail wheel
always popped out.
I did a simple modification of the nose gear tow bar by
making one side have a longer and larger diameter - one that
would slide over the axle nut (the left one in the below
photo). In addition, two bushings were added along with a
longer axle bolt to make sure the tow bar did not pop off
This has proven to be very secure, no matter how I'm pulling
on the plane.
Alaska Checks IN ....needs demo ride
Looking for RV8 Demo Ride -Anywhere
Hello from Alaska!! Need to the forum and new to the whole
concept of building my own plane. Have been researching for
the last couple of months, staking the forum and learning as
much as I can. I really like the RV8 but before I set my
heart on thinking this is the direction I'd like to go (wife
has given me permission to move forward) I'd like to
actually sit and ride in one. With Covid and Vans not doing
demos that leaves me wondering what to do. There is an RV7
owner he in Anchorage but he isn't returning messages but I
prefer the 8. I have leave and plenty of AK airlines miles
and if you'd be willing I'll pay for gas. Thanks
February 16, 2021. Issue #5,279.
Lotsa snow on the ground in TX (GOES-East
Geocolor pic below). Rolling blackouts. Hope the RV is doing OK - will check
in a few days. And hope warmer where you are.
Newfound respect for people living more than a mile north of me.
Mothership planned office MX through 17th. More below...
a Contract Embraer Phenom 300 SIC? Use Me!
DFW upper center slightly right.
Waco just below center
(Lake Waco looks like S.America).
My RV Weekend....various
Many years later, but I am teaching again on weekends as a
level 2 PSIA ski instructor at a family friendly ski area,
it feels good teaching again. Had a blast teaching over the
past few days. Got off early today and did a flyby over
Spring Mountain Ski Area.
Saturday we flew IFR from LGB to CRQ and joined the 200 knot
Almost finished the cabin side install of my
I worked on installing a landing light on C-GERZ.
A plenum does
not need to be complicated. ...Michael Robinson
I used the "stock" baffle sides as a basis for my plenum
and simply added a flat wrap "lid" made of .016 2024. As
mentioned, held in place by piano hinge on all sides. Takes
30 seconds to remove and 2 minutes to install (no tools).
...Tim Foster RV-14A
Cold weather here in Texas has me itching to get some
sort of progress on the plane. Feels like -7 degrees in the
workshop and not set up for heating since we usually don't
Pulled out the last few pieces I need to peel and prep for
priming. So at least got something done. And my better half
even decided to try out peeling off the blue stuff.
Hoping for better building weather soon.
fairing ...andrewtac RV-8
This started as a what if experiment/learning experience
but I think I made a useable part. It still has some finish
work to do but fits really well and seems to be solid. This
is my first attempt at making a part from scratch.
Elevator Trim RV-4 ...Bill E. PIREP
I did mine pretty much as the electric trim kit sketch
dictated. The MAC servo is mounted to the skin access plate
and all goes in together. Easy and effective. I had already
cut the elevator skin for the manual cable, so I did make
some minor adjustments, but this photo may help.
February 15, 2021. Issue #5,278.
Wasn't any RVating around our parts this weekend (pic
below). Moondog was focused on the task at hand when we
finally coaxed him into the yard - all business then back under
the blanket. The Rubicon spent more time in 4WD on Sunday
than it has total in the five years we've owned it, and I was
pretty pleased with myself and its Dana 44s, 4.10 axle gearing
and electric lockers, until I looked around and saw I was
surrounded by Honda front wheel drive minivans. For a
nanosecond I thought I was cool (wasn't). I don't know much, but I do
know that when a rare snowfall comes to Dallas, TX my role is to
drive the wife around so she can look at cows and stuff.
Pretty rare conditions for these parts.
Hope it was nicer where you are and don't forget the Mothership is down
for planned MX through the 17th (more below). On to
today's longer-than-usual snowbound edition. Enjoy.
a Contract Embraer Phenom 300 SIC? Use Me!
RV8 Tail Strobe Shield Groundd ...smithflys23
I am in the process of correcting my Aeroled strobe
wiring. Originally, it was grounded to the airframe causing
headset noise. After corresponding with Aeroled, they
recommend grounding each strobe at the main ground block.
They also recommend grounding the wire shielding to the
frame of each light, and then grounding the shields at the
main ground block. The wing tip lights were fairly straight
forward. The tail strobe is causing me problems. I ran the
strobe ground to the main ground block, but I can not figure
out a good way to ground the shield to the strobe frame. The
mounting location in the fiberglass fairing doesn't present
an easy solution. I thought I could put a ring terminal
behind the top screw, but that wont allow the tail of the
light to fit in the mounting hole. I bought a longer
mounting screw thinking I could put a nut on the back. The
fairing is too narrow at the top to allow the nut.
Does anyone have a suggestion on how I might ground the wire
shield to the strobe frame? Your help is appreciated.
Kevin and the RV-7 Made it to Now-open Alton Bay
Runway and weather conditions perfect. All restaurants
are open. Starts to get real busy around 8:30am.
Center Stack Wiring ...PilotjohnS 9A project
Just a quick update. Center radio stack wiring
nearly done. About 100 terminations so far. Only another 150
or so to go.
If you look closely at the picture, lots of things going on.
For example, supports modified to allow screens to be high
on panel. Connectors are mounted on brackets in approximate
locations to allow nice harness routing. Harness pass thru
holes in sub panel. Fuse block installed. Wires labeled with
printed heatshrink. Splices and terminations are inside
backshells for greater reliability and better EMI (dont try
this at home, it can go wrong if not carefully done)
Napa To Half Moon Bay RV9 IFR ...SVTPete83 vid
I tired my hand at making a video of the RV catching a
little IMC along the way. The video includes using my
new GRT Horizon EX with a trutrak autopilot and a GTN650.
Dogs in RVs ...N546RV entry
Best I can do right now. Dude seemed really interested in
climbing into the canoe with me. Unfortunately he passed a
few years ago, so that backseat ride will never happen.
Milestone: Wing and Top Skins ...FlyingHusky
[ed. 8 pics and lots of words in
this update! v/r,dr]
How to run conduit for rudder trim?
New builder question.
Working on adding electric rudder trim. I've never routed
any wires or conduit and wondering what the best/most
correct way to do it might be.
I'm in the planning stages so any advice is appreciated. I
was leaning towards running conduit so I don't have to worry
about selecting wires, connectors, etc. now since i haven't
done that research yet. I have attached a picture with some
of the parts to get an idea of what I'm looking at.
So to summarize:
1. Conduit or just run wires?
2. What routing should I take in the rudder?
3. How do I connect said conduit/wires securely to the
I have ideas and I've done plenty of googling but I haven't
been able to find specific enough information that makes me
comfortable i'm on the right track.
Thanks for any help.
Section 38 Canopy - Advice Please ...Rich Clark RV-14
Did I mention this section is kicking my butt!!
I'm at the point where I am about to "fill the void" on page
38-28. But the vertical seam where the canopy skin (C-01418)
and canopy side skins (C-01419) meet isn't meeting flush the
way I'd like. In the attached picture, it would be the aft,
upper corner of C-01418 and it is sitting higher than the
forward upper corner of C-01419 by about 2 skin widths.
Tried some ProSeal down into the void and a clamp to hold,
and that worked on one side. The other wouldn't hold. Afraid
when the aft end of the canopy faring is built, this will
sit way high and create a "thick" trailing edge of the glass
Would love to know if other folks encountered this problem,
and if there is solution that worked well. Thanks in
Paint Update ...Scotty G
And even the pro's make boo-boo's! Twice they began with the
wrong color. LOL. Hey, everyone makes mistakes!
Overall, I'm very, very pleased with how my design came out.
They even asked me to paint part of it, which I begrudgingly
agreed to. Brought back my model building days and
airbrushing. I think when they saw I kind of knew what I was
doing, they wanted me to do more. I politely deferred.
Anyway, enjoy a few of the pics I snapped...
GMU 11 mounting
Hi all whats the best location to mount a GMU 11 in a RV6
slider with vernier trim? pictures would be great!
This is a flying aircraft not in the project state
(mfleming) I'm also mounting the GMU 11 on the aft deck.
The unit is straddling the right lightning hole. The
connector comes up through the left lightning hole. All
stainless hardware of course.
February 12, 2021. Issue #5,277.
Wishing you and yours a happy, WARM!!!!, safe and RV-filled
a Contract Embraer Phenom 300 SIC? Use Me!)
Propeller Mounted ...Draker
Right Slick Mag
Check, RPM to Zero ... Justin Richardson
Every since I've own this plane when I check my right mag
RPM goes to zero therefore you have to listen for an audible
difference in RPM drop. I'm used to it but I'd rather it do
what the LEFT mag does and see a slight dip in RPM instead
of it going all the way to zero.
My panel is basic VFR , old steam gauges so i'm not exactly
sure what I need to do to fix this slight annoyance. RIGHT
and LEFT Mag are both Slick, I will have to find a model
number if you need specifics.
Any wiring diagram or suggestions would be greatly
runaway GSA28 ...mciaglia
Started the autopilot config per the G3X manual. At the
point of turning on the AP and adjusting the heading to
confirm stick movement. As soon as the AP is engaged the
pitch servo goes to a full nose up position (stick comes
Stein built the panel
Software is most current
On configuration page all servos are "green check"
Tried switching the servo - same problem
Reversing the servo in setting caused just the
opposite...stick goes full forward
Trim test works on the trim motors
Two Pics of
DeeCee 57's Temp Long Haul Fuel Bladder
Install ...how goatflieg did it
This is how I did it. The location is just on the outside
of the rib by the access cover for the bellcrank. Instead of
using a skin doubler I made an aft end brace to help support
the mast more securely.
Any really TALL
pilots? ...rileyspoon RV-12iS
Ok, I admit it is a little late now since I've already
completed the tail section, but until a week ago I had not
been able to find an RV-12iS to try on. I'm 6'5" so it was a
little tight. Unfortunately, the canopy was not installed so
I couldn't tell if my head would actually clear it. As you
can see from the photo it looks like I may have a problem
with room at the top.
Wondering if there are any tall pilots out there that can
share how they manage the room. From what I see in the
plans, there isn't any option to move the rudder pedals out
or the seat back. Suppose I could investigate the
possibility of having a custom canopy made that has a
slightly higher bubble but would that change the
aerodynamics if the height were increased by 2 inches or so?
leaking from exhaust stud ...seagull
I noticed this leak that appears to be coming out of the
#1 cylinder lower exhaust stud. It appears to be oil. There
are no drips on the lower cowling and it is not blown back
on the engine. This tells me it is either evaporating, (not
oil) or a very small leak. Everything was cleaned 50 hours
ago. The # 3 exhaust is leaking from the same area but the
stain is smaller. Cylinders 2 & 4 have no leak.
Old Sectional Aeronautical Charts Scanned ...Library
6,520 maps. Plan on a large monitor, WiFi and a few hours of
Waco, TX. 1945.
Dallas / Fort Worth, TX. 1939.
Dallas (a month before I was born). July 1965.
February 11, 2021. Issue #5,276.
a Contract Embraer Phenom 300 SIC? Use Me!)
Dogs in RVs
...continued here with Joe Rainbolt (7A)
Okay, as many of you know I had an impulse
coupler decide to break apart on my newly rebuilt
engine. The engine had to once again come off so
that I could take the sump and accessory case off to
change a gear and look to see if any metal entered.
Luckily not a single piece of metal was found
anywhere inside the engine; it was totally captured
by the mag spacer.
Long story short there appears to be a manufacturing
defect on the impulse coupler flyweights. See this
thread for more details/closure on that topic.
Darren at Aerosport was awesome to work with and
answered all of my questions so I could get the
engine fixed. They warrantied most of the parts as
well. (I chose to change two out of my own piece of
mind) They even let me credit the bad mag towards a
Pmag (no more impulse couplers for me!!!)
In the end I replaced the crankshaft idler gear due
to two slightly deformed teeth, the idler gear shaft
and bolts/nuts out of caution, and the crankshaft
gear out of caution. While replacing the crankshaft
gear I followed Lycoming 475C and the supplement.
They provided an awesome amount of detail on how to
do it properly. I sincerely doubt anything was wrong
with the crankshaft gear but I changed it out of
piece of mind and Lycoming recommended it come off
to inspect the dowel pin (which was undamaged).
Here is a shot of the crankshaft gear and idler
shaft after replacement.
(continue / more pics and video)
I've developed a few smoking rivets at 950 hours
or so, belly skin, at F-808, photos attached. QB
fuselage, vintage 2005 or so. The rivets appear to
be driven acceptably. There are several possible
fixes. Right now I'm more interested in the cause...
which may change the best choice of fix.
Offhand (no hard evidence), I'd guess the belly skin
between F808 and F809 may be pumping due to exhaust
pulse. I use a 4-into-1 with a 45 degree downturn.
The typical exhaust belly stain runs the full length
of the aft skins.
Mine also lacks the portion of the lower cowl exit
which normally extends a few inches below the plane
of the belly.
The skin forward of F-808 is braced by the two big
baggage floor ribs. I have a dollop of silicone
injected between the belly skin and the floor
forward of the spar, where the floor ribs come to a
point and cracking is common at the aft most rivet.
Still crack-free there.
So, looking for comparative data. Anyone reporting
loose rivets at 808?
(thread update 2/10) Looking for anyone who
has experienced belly loose rivets at F-808.
Vans support says it's not typical, so best theory
right now says it's specific to my configuration.
Comparison to another example might be useful.
When you can't
fly the plane you're building
When my Meniere's flareup forced me to sell the
beloved 7A, I started building an RV-12iS, mostly
because I like building airplanes.
I let the medical expire with the possibility I
could fly under sport rules. I'm building to LSA
Meniere's is a slow progressive illness that
eventually leaves you (mostly) deaf. The process of
destroying a vestibular system is difficult -- lots
of dizzy spells and the accompanying throwing up
etc. Not fun. But your brain begins to adjust and
compensate and eventually you get some stability,
which is why the FAA still issues special issuance
to people with Meniere's.
As I get older and things begin to deteriorate,
though, I increasingly think I'll just stay on the
ground, especially since I haven't flown since the
day I ferried the 7A away.
But there's this thing I have for building
The challenge is once it's done. Painting. I can't
do it myself and I wouldn't want to. My 7A was done
by Midwest Aircraft Refinishing in Hibbing (probably
the 3rd RV they did) and they were great. But a
ferry flight to Hibbing would be out of the
Fortunately, Wipaire's paint shop is about 20 feet
from my hangar and while they're expensive and
sometimes have provided unsatisfactory results to at
least one of my RV-10 pals, that seems like a
The problem? Flight testing.
The LSA requires five hours and my home field - KSGS
- doesn't allow first flights to return until after
testing (too many of the RVers on the field ignore
the rule and are ready to claim they had high oil
temps. I don't do business that way).
So that would require hiring someone to do that
first flight and testing -- and demo flights to
So I'm interested in hearing from other people
who've done this . What unforeseen challenges await.
What would be a fair price for a test pilot to spend
a day testing an RV-12iS? etc.
JD Air New
After many requests for a RED light weight
tailwheel, we have one!! The same great light weight
tail wheel now in bright red anodizing.
I will have these available next week.
for Overfilling Brake Fluid Reservoir ...HFS
I make this little "gadget" that goes in the BF
Reservoir when bleeding the brakes to automatically
maintain the correct "head space" when there is
fluid overflow during the bleeding process.
Pretty self explanatory - when the fluid rises to
the level of the bottom of the ez-fill tube, it
(fluid) continues up through the tube and out to the
discharge outlet (connected to a clear vinyl tube -
to monitor removal of entrained air). Once the fluid
rises to, and "covers" the inlet, the remaining
space above is slightly pressurized (to fluid
pressure), and remains to yield the necessary "head
space" for an operating system.
The fitting shown has a 90* elbow to clear and
potential clearance issues with the cowling hinge
line. If conditions permit, a straight thru
configuration works just fine.
I silver braze all connections, then bead blast to
get rid of "overrun" - then paint.
YMMV - but this works for me.
RV-4 Rear Seat
Reinforcement Gusset Installation ...00Dan request
Q: Could someone share a picture of the
rear seat reinforcement gusset installation? I'd
like to verify I'm visualizing the installed
A: (Scott Hersha) Here's what mine looks
like (RV4). There's one on each side.
Not the first, just the most recent
February 10, 2021. Issue #5,275.
a Contract Embraer Phenom 300 SIC? Use Me!)
Race to Rescue
Suri ...Guy Prevost and family (RV-10)
We have a wonderful two-year old Rhodesian Ridgeback that
we adopted from Ridgeback Rescue US. My wife recently came
across another puppy with the same foster family in
Minnesota. Suri spent the first 12 weeks of her life with
her littermates in a 5' square box with essentially no human
contact. In her two weeks with a foster family Suri began to
socialize and my wife and the foster family thought Suri
would be a good fit for us. Plans were set in motion.
We reached out here on VAF and on Pilots and Paws looking
for some help flying Suri part way to New Mexico. Winter
weather in Minnesota is challenging, especially from a New
Mexican's perspective. Forecast after forecast failed, and
then on a Sunday Morning, it appeared that the Minneapolis
area would be VFR for most of the following day, with great
weather enroute. The timing was too tight to coordinate with
others, especially for a weekday, so we decided to do the
whole trip ourselves. We immediately packed some bags and by
12:30 were headed NE to the end of the VFR weather.
First Engine Start and Sign Off ...RV-10Man
Did my first engine start Sunday afternoon. Got my FAA
signoff today. N781DM is an official airplane now.
Q: Helping with the CI on our RV6 I noticed the
breather tube is curved forward atv the bottom and does not
have a whistle hole. The best I can tell it is the stock
Vans part. Can anybody confirm that our setup is correct.
The bottom of the tube is behind the lower cowl so it should
not get any ram air. Thank you. Any pictures of correct
setup would be great as well.
A: (jcarne) From my understanding you don't want
to slam ram air into it but you also don't want to put a
suction on it. It would seem to me that suction would be
even worse for oil loss.
Here is how mine currently is. I installed a 1/4" alternate
hole in case the end freezes. I would rather keep my
crankshaft oil seal intact.
P.S. The alternate hole is not drilled in the pic below. I
put it right below the adel clamp. I also pulled a bit up in
the hole to deform the material in such a way as to capture
any drips. Hope that makes sense...
Dogs in RVs
With the Covid situation, this is my regular co-pilot.
She is up to six hours of RV7 time.
GPS Antenna -
on or under the cowling
Q: I finally got my GPS 175 that I ordered in November
but have not been able to decide where I'm installing the GA
35 antenna. It's down to 2 options separated by 2 or 3
inches vertically. As far forward on the center of the
cowling that I can, aft of the rear baffles. Only question
is if I take the easy route and install it visible on top or
if I come up with a bracket and put it underneath the
I know that both have been done and are feasible, is there
anyone with experiences that might help me decide? I think
I'm leaning towards under just because it will look so much
better, but any performance concerns?
A: (bjdecker) There's some anecdotal evidence that active
electronics suffer shortened life spans due to the heat
under the cowling. I chose to make fiberglass panels
for the "boot cowl" and undermount the GPS & SXM antennas.
What Vbg speeds have you all validated through flight tests?
There have been a number of engine out, followed by stall
spin accidents this past year.
I'm wondering if any of those were complicated by using the
wrong speed for best glide, and then running out of energy
short of the intended landing spot.
There seems to be some debate about min sink speeds and
maximum glide range speeds (Vbg) on this forum. Regardless
of small variances due to build, shouldn't Vbg generally be
close to Vy for any given airplanes. This is L/D max at
I'm asking because I've seen some POHs show Vbg for RV7s in
the 80 kt range, including the checklist I inherited when I
bought my RV7 from a another owner, who was not the original
builder. When I tested it, however, I found 95 kts to be the
number for Vbg. I sold the RV7 last year, and now own an 8A,
which I purchased from the builder. I did my own tests on
it, and my Vbg test results show Vbg to be 100-104 kts,
depending on wgt.
A simple way to compare whether Vbg is closer to 80k or 100k
is to try this in 2 successive the landing patterns to low
approaches in your constant speed prop airplane:
Run 1) trim for 80 kts, flaps up. Plan a normal pattern at a
safe altitude. Set MP to min per your comfort level, prop at
low rpm to simulate an engine out condition. When you roll
out on final, ascertain your likely touchdown point. At a
safe low approach altitude, set prop to max RPM and MP to
max, and execute a normal go-around. Be ready to retrim as
needed for the climb out, as always.
Run 2) do everything the same way, trimming for 80 kts.
However, after you roll out on final and assess your likely
touchdown point at 80 kts, lower the nose and
accelerate/trim to 100kts. See how your touchdown point
changes. Again, at a safe altitude, execute a normal
I found that in Run 2), after accelerating to 100k, my
likely touchdown point moved substantially further away the
runway. Clearly, my Vbg is much closer to 100 than to 80.
These results prompted me to go out and do the tests
recommended by Jaros, and get a more precise measurement of
I'm very interested in results others may find.
February 9, 2021. Issue #5,274.
a Contract Embraer Phenom 300 SIC? Use Me!)
My RV Weekend
RV-3B Status Report ...David Paule
Before gluing the canopy to the fairing/frame assembly, I
needed to prepare the outer latch handle. Otherwise I
wouldn't be able to latch it from the outside. I chose to do
it like the RV-8 plans show, even though their handle is a
little different than the RV-3B version. Mine is the
C-406 handle. The RV-8 version is the C-656 one.
FREE Backup EFIS ...iPhone app
Stumbled across this and downloaded the free monochrome
version (the color one costs $). If it aligns upside down like it did on my
phone, go into Settings, scroll to the bottom and click the
button. Select 'Setting by Touch' (that fixed it on
mine). Pretty cool for free!
Flight 5 ...karrelsj
A shorter flight than the previous trying to get back
before the gusting cross-wind picked up into the 20s (I made
it back when it was still 10kt right cross). With a little
more trust in the autopilot, flew most of the flight via the
Garmin. 1) I was able to get a nice slow mixture lean in
order to gather another set of data before I start swapping
on injector sizes. 2) I got some decent numbers at 4500 for
60% power LOP and 75% power ROP. I wanted to grab those
numbers because I am going to start putting the wheel pants
on. 3) I finally remembered to calibrate the pitch offset on
the PFD. 4) I calibrated two of the AoA settings (viewable
and caution). The controllers were busy all around, good job
Dollars and Sense ...Myron Nelson in Kitplanes (article)
"...Early in this article I mentioned renting a Cessna
150 in 1976 for $16.50 an hour. At the minimum wage of the
day, it took 8.25 hours of labor to pay for one hour of
rental charge. In prep for this article, I looked for a
comparison. I found a listing for a flight school renting a
Van's RV-12 for $99 an hour. At today's minimum wage of $12
in my state, that equates to the same 8.25 hours of labor to
rent a trainer for an hour - albeit one that's of a newer
design, nicer to fly and better equipped. Amazingly not what
most folks, including me, would have guessed."
February 8, 2021. Issue #5,273.
a Contract Embraer Phenom 300 SIC? Use Me!)
Barb's Retirement from the Mothership
We wanted to share this message from the amazing Barb Billman - who is
retiring from Van's!
"To all of Van's Aircraft family,
It is with great joy and excitement but with a heavy heart that I announce
my retirement from Vans at the end of February. As of Feb 19, I will have
given Van's the best 30 years of my life. It has been such an honor and a
pleasure to work for a man who is so respected in the aviation industry and
who has been such a great employer. I have been so grateful for the
opportunity I was given 30 years ago when I applied for a job at Van's and
was hired after being a stay at home mom for 10 years prior while raising my
3 sons. I will truly miss my family at Van's, not only my fellow colleagues
and business associates, but all of our customers that I have helped over
the years realize their dream of building and flying their own aircraft.
My position at Van's has provided me the opportunity like no other to
befriend many people all over the world. It is amazing to me that I have
touched so many lives in these 30 years and am proud to be part of the Van's
family. I am humbled by the support and kind words given to me by my
customers over the years and especially on the FB post celebrating my 29th
anniversary. I have truly enjoyed working at Van's Aircraft. I've had so
much fun in my job and have learned so much from my customers about
perseverance to realize your dreams.
As I prepare to start the next chapter in my life, I will remember those who
through tremendous odds whether from age, illness, death of loved ones, job
loss, etc... still persevered to build and fly their own aircraft even if it
took many years to do so. You guys are a real testament to the adage that
"if there is a will, there is a way". Thank you all for giving me the
opportunity to serve you these past 30 years. I am proud to have worked for
such a great company that has brought so much joy to others, and am
especially grateful for you allowing me to be part of your dreams. I can
only hope that I served you well. I will truly miss you all. Goodbye.
her a happy retirement in this thread
Non-Engineer's DIY Tug ...KeithB
I hesitated to post this with all the impressive
engineering done by others. Not being nearly as talented, I
took a much simpler approach. Since wheel chair motors are a
favorite drive mechanism, I started with a used wheel chair,
this particular model - a Jazzy Select 6 (photo 1) - comes
complete with motors, wheels, motor controllers and stick
control, all connected.
I then removed the seat, and created a simple mount on
the seat base for the handle of my Bogert tow bar (photo 2)
with a hinged cover that pins in place (photo 3), locking
the handle of the tow bar and allowing push or pull.
Finished set up - photos 4 & 5
I disconnected the seat rotation stops so the tug can pivot
360 degrees. The tug (and chair suspension) works best in
its native "forward" direction - the pictures here would
therefore be the tug position for "backing up" the aircraft.
Rotate the tug 180 degrees for "pulling" the plane forward.
The stick control, removed from the chair arm, has a 5' cord
- perfect for walking behind/beside the tug. On my slick
hangar floor, traction is an issue, particularly at start
up. I reinstalled the foot rest for the wheel chair and as
power is applied, I can step on the step applying 150 pounds
of ballast that gets the tug moving. An improvement would be
built in ballast.
I have found this setup easily accomplishes my goal of a tug
for my hangar ramp (gentle - about 2 degrees), but is
trickier (non-intuitive) for close maneuvering - like
turning the plane around and backing it into place - it will
do it, but requires some spinning of the tug to swing the
handle, and its just easier to disconnect for the final
...Rest in Peace
Over three years ago I purchased a partially built RV9A kit
that was originally purchased and started by Harold VanDeHey
in the Portland, OR area. Although I never spoke with him
directly we conversed with numerous texts and emails over
the next three years as I completed the aircraft he began.
His initial workmanship was excellent and in his honor I
chose the tail number 762VH to honor his work.
Harold's wife called me last night to say that he had passed
away on 29 January, finally losing his long battle with
mesothelioma. She told me that Harold had delighted in
knowing the aircraft he had started back in 2003 was now
finished and flying. Blue skies on your flight west my
friend and my prayers for your family's loss.
RV-10 Service Letter SL-00003: Optional Fuel Tank Attach
Van's Aircraft has published
SL-00003, which approves the optional
removal of the F-1054 Tank Attach Angles from existing aircraft. It is at
the discretion of the owner whether or not to make this change. At times the
attach angle may form cracks, and we have determined through analysis and
testing that the component is not necessary. Therefore, owners who wish to
do so may remove the part from their aircraft.
It's not often this sort of thing happens, but the short version is this:
Analysis with modern design and testing software allowed us to validate
during our evaluation of reported cracks that the part was not necessary,
nor providing structural value. Whether cracked or not, the part may be
removed as desired. This part will no longer be included or specified for
RV-10 aircraft kits sold in the future.
Update ...Tyson Brown
So... yeah. I had such good intentions to keep this up as
I've gone along, but then not only didn't post, but didn't
keep up with the nearby builders. I'm sorry, but trying to
There's been a new job, moving my Mom across the country,
and a girl that weren't really part of the plan when I first
started, but have all been better than I could possibly
planned for. She (un-prompted) volunteered and signed up to
take the SportAir sheet metal workshop at Oshkosh 2019, and
I went out and bought a ring . I flew her to Mackinac Island
(KMCD) the weekend after Osh in the club 172, popped the
question, and she said yes!
VP-X and PPS manual update, please get the latest revision
We've come across an issue in the field with the PPS when used with an
external voltage regulator (the LR3C). There is no problem with the EVR at
all, but there is a wiring change that has been updated in both the VP-X and
the PPS manuals. Failure to either change your wiring, or wire when
installing using this revision will potentially damage the PPS.
There is no safety of flight issue, but the damage would occur when either
starting up, or shutting down. The voltage regulator MUST be shut off BEFORE
the alternator, or at the same time when shutting down, or the alternator
MUST be turned on BEFORE the EVR when starting up.
Revision E is now current for both manuals, and both are available here:
If you have a PPS please get the revised manual whether you have a VP-X or
not, but there are new sections covering use of the LR3C with the PPS in a
VP-X system, and a traditional buss system.
300 MPH on the
Way To A Race ...Jeff Barnes
Great tailwind KENW to KSPA for a race April 2013. 7.6
Mock Up ...rockitdoc
Painted the sub panel last night. First mock up of panel
with model avionics. I hope everything fits between the
panel and the sub panel.
February 5, 2021. Issue #5,272.
Wishing you and yours a happy, safe and RV-filled
a contract Embraer Phenom 300 SIC? I'm your guy!)
Usual suspects out and about.
Extra style points for the tandems in the middle.
DanH's New DIY
Finished this AM. Works fine on the shop floor.
Left-Right function is perhaps a bit too sensitive, but I'll
get it to the hangar this weekend and see if it's a
Yeah, grand overkill, but hey...
Alternator Bracket ...hgerhardt PIREP
...Aluminum would be fine if it's sized appropriately.
That way you can make it longer to pick up the next bolt
boss to the rear to help with alignment and make it stronger
too. Here's the one I made 20 years ago from billet 6061-T6.
You can use the free SolidWorks through EAA, design your
own, and have it made via hundreds of internet job shops.
imagine you have all this hassle in replacing your
machanical fuel pump. you need four days of blood, sweat and
tears to put in the new one and than bad weather covers half
of europe for three weeks.
then you make a ground test and your Dynon shows only 6 - 7
PSI fuel pressure instead of the 25 PSI or so required for
your injected lycoming. if you apply power without the boost
pump the engine feels like it's having vapor lock. turning
on the boost pump and everything is fine.
then you figure out that tempest builds two versions of the
fuel pump. one with low pressure for carburator and a high
pressure version for injected.
and guess which one i installed... yikes.
SkyView HDX v16.0.1 Released
Do I need to worry about the little bearings in the
rudder horn when priming? I was debating covering the
holes/bearings with tape before priming.
Mothership 2021 Calendars Found ...mothership
So, we miiiiight have found a couple hidden extra
calendars. apparently print shops have a few extras
sometimes. Go figure. You can email us (see below) to
inquire about getting one from our lost-and-found stack.
We're going to keep the spirit of Northerliving's original
post going here in terms of how we will distribute these
ones, because hey - we thought it was pretty freakin
awesome. So, until the few remaining bonus calendars that we
discovered are gone, here's the (slightly updated) dealio:
[ed. I got a nice email from Greg
pretty much ordering me to post this <g>. dr]
February 4, 2021. Issue #5,271.
And the hunt begins for upgrading our RV-6's landing lights....
I need to log night time in pursuit of the eventual ATP and
my 20yr old original non-LED lights aren't going to work as well
now with my 55yr old Mark 1 rods and cones.
Back in 2002 when our RV first flew I could pull it off, but as our
runway deteriorated and the potholes became very real threats at
night I chose to not fly after sunset there. 18 years later I
need night time in the logbook to meet 61.159. New runway
and new light tech!
So I'm researching....AeroLEDs
SunBeams looking good. Had to look up when I could log night
to the minute - turns out it was on my watch <grin>. Technology!
I'll plan these flights to be wheels up on the first second
of 'night'. Fun stuff and looking forward to a well lit,
non-potholed environment. I'll get before and afters...
a contract pilot? How 'bout using me?)
Many new options submitted
I put them in little plastic storage bins I got from the
grocery store. Labeled the bins, separated them into flush
and round head groups and arranged each group by size. Small
batches of special sizes are kept in plastic bags. I built
the shelf to hold the bins and it migrated to different
places in the shop before ending up on this wall.
Cowl Oil Door
...coupla options. PIREPs.
I used Camlock KM610 flush latches and a spring hinge
from Cleveland Tools. Looks clean and works great. Make sure
you get Camlocks for the correct thickness (e.g., 0.064
bracket /alternator help - H2AD + B&C
I started with the PP to B&C conversion on my H2AD today.
It didn't go well. The mounting bracket used with the PP is
07a21516 and with a thin washer aligned the PP well. The B&C
bracket provided does not fit the engine, as the case bolt
hole spacing isn't correct, and belt alignment is way off.
This is just a quick shot in the dark to see if anyone else
has already been down this road and figured it out?
Picture: PP 07A21516 on the left, B&C on the right, up is
forward ( at least for the PP).
The fact that the tension arm is in a different place on the
alt case is a problem for another day, maybe. It's looking
like a shorter belt will be required, so I guess the prop is
coming off regardless. Big sigh.
February 3, 2021. Issue #5,270.
Taking the day off, I think for the first time in
20 years. Reason? Passed my Phenom 300 PIC
checkride in the sim Tuesday - 10 months in the making.
Didn't want to jinx it by talking about it in advance. One
pic below after shutdown. I was planning on initially
making this my ATP check, but I don't have enough night time.
Should correct that over the next six months and make my jet
recurrent be for single pilot signoff and the ATP rating.
The RV ABSOLUTELY gave me the confidence to do this, and I need a
30 hour nap <g>.
a contract pilot? How 'bout using me?)
click to enlarge
February 2, 2021. Issue #5,269.
a contract pilot? How 'bout using me?)
Vlad's 9A RV
After winds calmed down flew to check Intergalactic
Spaceport. Too cold for aliens visit.
Strap Material ...PhatRV PIREP
I am using the 1/2 inch braided strap for my engine
grounding wire. I crimped the copper lugs to make the
connection to the vacuum pump pad and the firewall.
I've seen small grounding wire in flying airplane and
automobile. I just happen to have the 1/2" braided strap
3D Panel Layout
...thread continues with ideas
and Vinyl Labels to Cover It....RV7A_Flyer
I joined the club over Thanksgiving...parked on a ramp
for several days (which I hate...always looking for a
hangar) in some very cold weather, came out to the plane for
the trip home and there it was: about 1.5" crack, just over
the little lifting handle on the pilot's side. Stop-drilled
and covered with some custom vinyl labels.
Cold at 6,500
Next mod will definitely be the 'bender baffle'. RV-12
Rotax Radiator heat with Van's block off is nowhere near
enough. OAT at 6500 was 18F.
But boy was it a beautiful day to fly. That's Dayton, OH off
in the distance and the Hangers for the USAF Museum at
Wright Patt on the very right hand edge towards the top.
February 1, 2021. Issue #5,268.
a contract pilot? How 'bout using me?)
Checking off the bucket list ...Randy Vanstory
After my dads passing, my mom remarried about 3 years ago. Her husband is
a veteran and worked as an aircraft mechanic in the air force for 37 years!
He loves airplanes! Surprisingly, in all that time of working on airplanes,
he has NEVER had the chance to fly in a small aircraft or to take the
control stick of one. He's 6'7" and because of his height, the air force
wouldn't let him in cockpit of a jet with a pilot. His head would hit the
canopy and his knees would be in the way in the event of a needed
evacuation. The smallest plane he's ever flown in was a DC-3. So, flying an
airplane has been on his bucket list for a long time.
Wednesday I had the privilege of giving him his first ride in a small
airplane!! It's not easy for an 81 year old that's 6'7" to get into an
RV-10. But gravity was our friend and guess what.... HE FIT!!! His legs
could get under the control panel and his head didn't hit the cabin top! So,
off we went!
We flew about 40 minutes around the caprock in Post, TX. He took the
controls and flew the plane with some turns as well as straight and level.
He LOVED it! Now he gets to check that off his list. After the flight,
gravity was not our friend, but he was able to get out of the plane and has
had a huge RV grin ever since! What an honor to be able to give this gift to
one of our veterans! I LOVE flying RV's!!!
Cancer patient - Need RV8 help
I have been a part of the RV world for a very long time, and RVs have been
the source of vast amounts of happiness for me and my father for years. My
dad is now too elderly to fly and he has sold his 6. I have a partial RV8
kit, tail done, wings started. I was diagnosed last September with stage 4
colon cancer and am undergoing chemo treatments regularly.
I would like to know if there is anyone in the Charlotte, NC area that would
entertain helping me work on my -8? I just cannot do this by myself. I
really need help. I truly want to keep the project moving forward as its a
way of giving me hope for the future. Any ideas or help is truly
My RV Weekend
New things in fuel
I built and installed new tanks on my RV-6A and then realized I needed
return lines into the tanks. A real ah shucks moment. But, that said
they came off real easy. There are no end to surprises when you are
doing things. And no matter how good you clean somebody gets a fly in the
ointment. Crazy Crazy found one stuck in my flip/flop tube after only
4.5 hours of flying. I guess he came along for the ride. Must
have flown in as I was buttering Proseal.
Calendar ...Ed Hicks photo
How Did You Layout Your 3D Panel?
How did you guys plan where to put all the gear behind the panel? I would
like to make dummies of the all the avionics out of cardboard or something
similar and play with positioning and wiring. So far, I am doing it like a
kid in kindergarten with paper dolls (see below). Fortunately, Dynon
publishes the mechanical drawings with dimensions. I know I should learn a
CAD program so I don't have to size the drawings on my printer, but the
Fusion360 program that can read the .IGS files is not easy to print from in
1:1 scale. Is there a better, more elegant way to create these 3D models?
Or, is putting all of this together on the computer the 'elegant' way?
and Elevator "neutral" position
When I measure 4 degrees aft on the control stick base to
set the control stick neutral position I get a slightly
upward elevator deflection as compared to the HS. Does this
make sense? In other words, should the elevator be in trail
with the HS?
Flight over So
Even in So Cal we get mountain snow. Great day to test
out a RV10 after conditional insp..
January 29, 2021. Issue #5,267.
Wishing you and yours a happy, safe and RV-filled weekend.
a contract pilot? How 'bout using me?)
...Kevin Lippert RV-14A
While Between Kits ...YvesCH
I made many small angled brackets for routing my wires.
of Electric Rudder Trim ...Plummit's RV-10
I'll have to look at mine. The trim motor and linkage is
on the left side of the rudder/VS when viewed from the rear.
I'll check where the hinge is today. From the pic it looks
like the builder centered it.
RV-14 Temporary Fuselage Flooring for Riveting ...rockitdoc
...put a sheet of 1/4" hardboard over the baggage floor.
Even if you stand on a segment between the ribs, it held.
Plywood would be better, but not necessary. I riveted
everything I could reach standing next to the fuse myself,
then while I laid on my back underneath with my mushroom
set, my 16 yo son bucked each rivet inside on the lateral
joints. Worked great. 2 hrs.
Don't Fear the Fiber ...jtoudouze PIREP on windshield
Here is a few pictures. Hope it helps. The
windshield is held in with small clips at the bottom. The
fairing is attached with pull rivets to the fuselage and the
same sealer that is used to attach the other windows in the
January 28, 2021. Issue #5,266.
First I need to apologize for being a little out of the loop here lately.
I'm working some side job stuff that is pulling me out of the
VAFsphere more than usual for a bit (and by some I mean a lot).
Related to food and shelter - a lot of irons in the fire
currently. As a result of me not staring at the computer
as much, some threads that would normally be nipped have gotten
amped up and some jabs have been taken at people lately - things
I would normally catch. I get it's a strange time in the
world - I'm in it right there with ya.
So, having said that, I'd ask folks to please consider taking a breath
and pausing if the urge to pile on somebody you don't know
presents itself. There's a lot of tension in the world
right now, so I would really appreciate some help at keeping at
least our miniscule sliver of the online universe civil and
Please, thank you, kindest, and on to the day's RV news...:^)
a contract pilot? How 'bout using me?)
Grass Strip in
Rio de Janeiro ...Flavio RV-7!
My base airport is a small "air club" in Rio de
Janeiro, called Clube da Aeronautica. It's a 1320ft
grass runway in a great area of the city. Attached a
video I posted on YouTube a couple of months ago.
I wanted to share a few improvised tools I used
for rib shaping. I wanted a nice round where I had
to grind the VS ribs to fit the skin. I used the
side of a #40 drill bit to make a stress relieving
round. Then used a little 240 grit 3M wet or dry
sandpaper wrapped around a hacksaw blade to get in
those hard to reach areas.
I'm sure I'm not the first to think of this, but I
didn't see it anywhere else on here.
Flight instruments on MFD ...Brian Perry's newly flying
I have a twin 10.6" screen G3x Touch setup with
the left side configured as PFD1 and the right side
configured as MFD1. I have seen others with the
flight instruments displayed in split screen on the
right side screen, but for the life of me I can't
figure out how to do this. When I hit the "split"
soft key on the MFD, the screen splits into two of
the choices that I already had available on the full
screen MFD (Map, Charts, FPL, Wx, Terrain, Traffic,
VPX, Info, Eng.).
I have looked at all the manuals to try to find this
function but am probably missing something obvious.
Let me know what I am missing.
installation of Van's electric fuel primer solenoid and
I have searched for quite awhile and have not
found many pictures of installations of this primer
Can builders supply some pictures of the primer
installs? (Most posts that I've found, have links to
pix that are no longer active)
- I've seen one picture of a solenoid mount to the
firewall next to the Gascolator. Seems like a good
location. I've read posts that say they have mounted
to an adjacent engine mount bar.
- Then there's various methods of connection from
the solenoid to the Gascolator. Copper vs. SS
hardline, flex hose.
- Have not found any good pix of line runs from the
solenoid to the cylinder head ports. There's
discussions of running the lines along the sump, or
attached to the inlet runners. And some discussion
on running lines on top of the engine. I have the
copper tubing that came with the Van's kit.
- I've seen discussions on how many cylinders to run
the lines to. Ranging from 1 to 4. I'm using the #3
lower port currently, as the sensing port for the
- Is there any Van's installation instructions,
other than the very limited paper that's in the
solenoid box? Is there any guidance from Van's on
the installation of the system?
I would appreciate any installation pictures that
builders may provide. PM me for my email address if
you might have pictures you could provide. They'd be
worth 1000 words!
A: What I did
I have that set-up on my -4. For me, I used all
copper tubing "old school", and ran lines to 3
cylinders (4th has a MP fitting). I ran a line from
the gascolator top fitting over to the primer
solenoid which is mounted behand the L/H cylinders.
The line then runs forward, with a 3 wrap coil for
movement, and I have a T fitting to get a line to
the R/H side. I used plenty of Adel supports for the
install. I have attached a picture I have on file,
but could do more detailed if needed..I think it
shows enough. You can barely see the little solenoid
held in place by to grey Adels. The system is only
pressurized when the boost pump is on. I love the
set-up, and it works great. My momentary pushbutton
is just forward of the throttle on the panel.
Q; RV12 Silent
Hektik went silent
After more than 100 hrs of opertion, I'm doing my
runnup last week and noted that my voltage and
current indicators were showing low voltage and no
charging activity. Back to the hangar. I have
checked the connections to my SH regulator and they
appear fine and the VREG indicator on the Skyview
shows normal. Can this be that the VREG warning is
off but the regulator is not behaving?
A: I did same as Joe - John Deere AM101406
from eBay and mounted to a 3/16" aluminum sub-plate
with thermal paste. Mounted on firewall shelf in
original location with no add'l cooling air. Runs
warm at ~ 170F. No problems for several hundred
hours now. For comparison - top ignition CDI runs
cooler at ~125F.
GTN Xi Software
20.11 & GTN Software 6.71 Now Available 1/25/2021
We are excited to announce our latest software
release's for both the GTN and GTN Xi Series IFR
Navigators. These software updates can be downloaded
from the Software Download Area directly, for EAB
aircraft. Make sure to select the appropriate model
when downloading the Software and Service Bulletin
document, as the GTN and GTN Xi navigators use
separate software loader cards. Several of the new
features are a direct result of feature requests
from the field, so please continue to provide your
feedback on our equipment, and we will work to
implement improvements that best serve the group as
a whole as we continue to develop and enhance our
...zcv7853's RV-6A Forced Rebuild
Progress since my last post has been a little
less than desirable. I spent a few days cleaning up
and reorganizing the hangar enough to move around
I have begun the process of fitting my new wings.
For all who have said it would be easier to repair
my old wings, I appreciate your insight and advice!
I completely expect to have to undo some of my
progress and revert back to using my old wings when
I hit an impass. Until then I am going to attempt to
use my new ones.
So far, the fit is better than expected. I fitted
the pilot side wing last week to check fit and hole
allignment. Everything looks spot on! I installed 6
out of the 8 spar bolts without issue. They went in
snugly with a rubber mallet after being coated with
corrosionX. The remaining 2 were rather inconvenient
and I used up my allotment of cursewords for the day
so I called it quits. The smaller AN holes lined up
as well and I got many started by hand without
trying too hard.
I have a new set of landing gear weldments I can
use/drill if necessary, but so far I believe
everything will line up.
There was a guy at my field that started building an
rv7 a few years ago and recently gave up. He sold
his kit to a friend of mine that insists on an
o-360, leaving his pile of o-320 parts needing a new
All his parts were either new or overhauled with
yellow tags. I got a 320 case, crank, new cam, oil
pan, 4 overhauled chrome complete cylinders, OH mags,
inverted oil system, and enough spare parts to build
2 engines. All this for a whopping steal-of-a-deal
of six thousand bucks ($6000). He had all the
paperwork including work orders, receipts, and tags
for everything. I lost count after 12k in receipts.
I didnt have the heart to even try to negotiate a
lower price, I just payed the guy and ran like ****.
I took everything over to my engine guy and hope to
start assembling this weekend!!!!
Side note: it came with an overhauled dynafocal case
with a direct cam lubrication mod. Unfortunately I
have a conical mount in my -6A and Vans doesnt sell
-6A engine mounts anymore. They do sell -7A mounts
but dont guarantee that it will work with the 6's.
In everyone's opinion...is dynafocal worth getting a
new mount and trying to fit it, or just clean and
reuse my old case???? Anyone have experience with 7A
mounts on a 6??? If someone out there has a -6A
dynafocal mount for sale at a decent price hit me up
Curiosity question: Will a 7_ mount work in a 6A if
you cut the gear legs off with a cutoff wheel?
I was hired by a regional airline last february and
then COVID delayed my training. I had my house for
sale, wife and I both quit our jobs and packed up
our lives and then.... the world stopped. Long story
short, my job called and they are reinstating
training! I have a class date! Not sure how the -6
rebuild will be affected. Unemployment is stressful
and I cant wait to get back in the air again.
Please comment on the engine mount topic as I am at
a crossroads! Thank you all for your advice.
My dad loves Ice Breakers. They make great
storage containers for rivets. Now I just need him
to like some other flavors to color code things!
January 27, 2021. Issue #5,265.
a contract pilot? How 'bout using me?)
My RV Weekend
...Randy Vanstory RV-10
N5412K (RV 10)
Test Flight 1 ...Jeff Karrels
On January 10th 2021, after 3050 build hours it
was finally time for the first flight. It was also
time for a haircut, but I opted to go flying. All in
all a great flight with a plane that flew stable,
straight, and fast. A couple of points: I had the
audio recorder plugged into the co-pilots jacks, and
the audio panel was accidentally in isolate mode.
There was a little confusion with the traffic tower
on my intentions, but I opted to leave the pattern
on the base leg of a pattern instead of the
crosswind so I could stay closer to the safety of
open fields. When I did my first level off to cruise
I watched the oil door bow to the point it unlatched
itself and opened. I made the decision to continue
the flight test. The CHTs definitely came up when
the door opened, but stabilized well below 400. I
cut out the 1 hour of footage of running engine
break-in race tracks at 75% power as well as a
couple of speed reductions with 50% flaps to 65
Heater Box Door
Failure ...Mike RV-10
Not sure if anyone else has seen this but today I
discovered the door on my Right (aft) Heater door
had broken off.
leak, what would you do? ...jcarne
As you can see in the picture I attached I went
out to the hangar a few weeks ago and notices a
slight brake leak. There was a small amount of fluid
on the ground and a hanging drop on the right
caliper. I pushed on the pedals and there is still
good pressure on both sides and the pressure did not
cause any more drops of fluid.
The weird part is that the aircraft has not moved,
has always been in a heated hangar at 42 degrees. To
top it all off I haven't noticed any more drips in
about the last two weeks. The brakes were also never
actuated to cause this. Long story short I'm kind of
puzzled. I would think if the there was a problem
with the o-ring on the piston it wouldn't just stop
like this. Thoughts?
Reported on the Mothership
Angles behind aft baggage ...riseric PIREP
Like others, behind the aft bagage bulkhead. Used the 3/4 inch standard
angles, brass hardware everywhere. I didn't install a remote
Glare shield hand hold useful or not ...YankeeBravo
I am wondering if the 2 hand hold opening on the glare shield are
useful/required, to enter the aircraft of just move the seat back and forth
I am thinking of covering them with the a glare shield cover (as per picture
Any feedback appreciated, thanks...
January 26, 2021. Issue #5,264.
a contract pilot? How 'bout using me?)
First Flight! ...Brian Perry RV-14A
N072TP had its first flight on Saturday. Constructed 2/19
- 1/21. Quickbuild wings and fuselage. The plane performed
flawlessly. Ball was 1/4 width out of center to the right.
Only 39.4 hours left in Phase I!
Anyone that knows me, is familiar with my love of home
made tools. Comes from my Dad. He was a blacksmith in youth
and I often stood watching him make tools.
I've made quite a few. Links are on my blog. Today I needed
a 45 degree offset 7/16" open end wrench. I just couldn't
bring myself to buy one for $8 to cut and bend it. Since I
have tons of paddle wood bits from my Father-in-law, it was
the perfect stock. I use Forstner bits anyway. No loss. A
few minutes with a angle grinder and problem solved.
Flew around Pikes Peak ...Geoff McHarg
We were headed to Buena Vista, but it was getting choppy,
so we diverted down to 1V6 (Freemony County). Here is a
photo of the backside of Pikes Peak. Good thing we
went Friday, today it was socked in all day.
Keeping Rivets Organized ...DanNiendorff
After several failed attempts to well organize my rivet
stock, I think I have come upon the way to keep things in
order. My requirements were simple, it had to be hard to
spill, but quick and easy to access rivets. I wanted to be
able to easily see remaining quantities. My solution? Empty
spice containers. Flip cap makes them easy to access, and
hard to spill. Clear containers make quantities easy to see.
You can purchase them on amazon with red or black caps. I
did black for AN426, and red for AN470, with the diameter
and length specs on the outside of each bottle. The poker
chips are ordering specs for re-order when the bottle gets
Everyone probably has their own way to do this, but I
thought I would share this in case it might help someone
Cowl Attachment Just Aft of the Spinner ...BH1166 PIREP
Thin. I cannot comment on thickness, but can say 4
layers. I just purchased a Bondo brand repair kit from
Lowe's or Home Depot. It extends up to where ever you want.
Mine is likely 2.5-3.5 inches . Just give yourself adequate
edge distance for your nut plates in the tab u create and
the overlap from top cowl area. I used the nut plates to get
an idea. Make bigger, easy to cut grind down to your final
need/look. I tossed my pics of mine. Look on line for others
more recent builds in this area to get a visual as to
placement. Zoom in here and u can get an idea of my height
screw spacing. Over 100 hrs sine complete... no issues. FYI
this is how all more recent cowls are constructed. Btw, your
cowl is constructed with polyester resin being a 1990's
vintage, so no issues with any resin system u use. My RV is
1990 kit . Cheers
January 25, 2021. Issue #5,263.
New job listings at the Mothership listed below. Hope you had a
nice weekend - crazy wet and foggy here.
a contract pilot? How 'bout using me?)
Dogs in RVs
We gotta start a thread on this, but in the mean
time.....seen as a reply in another thread....
Wing Tips Done! & Jake Wins High Jump @ Air Force
Now that the wing tips are done, I believe this completes
the initial fit and rigging of wings, flaps, ailerons, and
corresponding controls. Too bad it's all coming off
In-flight Portrait ...Rvator97
Fun over Malibu & Wrightwood, Ca
Park City, Utah ...jrtens RV-12 pic
My RV14A plane is a real airplane!
This morning, I flew 1.2 hours to reach the magical 40.0
hours I needed to leave Phase 1. All major issues sorted
out. A handful of minor ones (example: canopy seals) left to
My RV Weekend
Finally Done! ...rvanstory's RV-10
Exactly 4 years (to the day) from driving my first rivet,
I now have a completed airplane (at least as complete as an
experimental goes ). Jonathan at Evoke and his team did an
excellent job on the paint. Stuck halfway home in Vicksburg
Mississippi today, waiting on low ceilings (400 ft) to lift
in San Antonio area. Tomorrow my baby should be finally
home! Let the adventures begin!
RV-6 XC Video ...dalemaher
Finally a nice day to do a trip from Kamloops to
Princeton, BC yesterday.
Status Report ...David Paule -3B
Braided Vacuum Hose PIREP ...Lkitson
I used the braided vacuum hose that came with the Van's
FWF kit. I connected one end to the #3 cylinder and
connected the other end to a 45 degree fitting mounted to a
bracket I made and riveted to the firewall. I made a line
from aluminum tubing to run from the 45 degree fitting to
the sensor manifold block. I put a nipple fitting in the
manifold and connected the manifold to the Dynon sensor with
January 22, 2021. Issue #5,262.
Wishing you and yours a happy, safe and RV-filled weekend.
a contract pilot? How 'bout using me?)
Fuse Blocks PIREP ...Thermos
I wanted a clean, uncluttered panel and also to retain
the canopy jettison handle so Com 2 (GTR-20) and transponder
(GTX-45R) went under the panel. Electrical protection is all
fuses except for the alternator field breaker; I mounted two
fuse blocks on the right panel support rib.
I'm really happy with how it turned out!
DIY Close Quarters Dimple Tool ...MrPilot
I am currently working on my practice kit and have been
waiting a month already for my close quarters pop rivet
dimpler to arrive from Aircraft Tool Supply. That being
said, I was really wanting to make more progress and came up
with a quick tool to dimple those hard to get rib holes.
1. Take a cleco clamp and disassemble.
2. Take the part of the clamp with the housing and mark 6mm
up from the end. Make another mark at where the center
intersects your first mark.
3. Screw the clamp housing to your work bench.
4. Drill using a #40 all the way through the clamp.
5. Counter sink until a rivet sits just under the surface.
6. Re-assemble the clamp.
7. Place a rivet into the hole to be dimpled.
8. Place the clamp over the piece to be dimpled and the
rivet. The rivet shank will go through the hole in the
9. While holding the clamp, give it some taps with the rivet
gun. (on the factory head side)
10. Remove the clamp and rivet.
This made an adequate dimple in the rib. It is not cframe or
DRDT2 quality, but good enough for those few that any other
tool can't get to.
Hope this might help someone in the future.
Flying Hippos!...Michael Burbidge
A lot of you probably fly multiple aircraft types. As for
me, I haven't flown anything but my RV-9A for the last 5
years (360 hours). I also haven't flown a lot of types
before that. I trained in a C172, transitioned trained in an
RV-6A. That's pretty much it.
My flight review was due the end of November. Due to Covid
and procrastination, I was not able to do it before it
expired. So I could not be the PIC. And it then got
difficult to find a CFI that could/would do it in my
I finally just scheduled it with the local flight school in
a rented C172.
Wow, wow, wow, flying that C172 gave me a whole new
appreciation for my RV-9A. I was exhausted after an hour
flight. Maybe it was a particularly sluggish 172. It was
like wrestling a hippo.
I didn't quite dare to fly my RV just after flying in that
172. I thought I should let the experience fade a little bit
for fear of over controlling my 9. But I can't wait for the
next clear day! It's been almost 3 months since I've flown
After that experience, I can't believe there aren't more
Vans aircraft. There should be 40,000.
Thanks goodness for Vans!
Shunts/Fuses ...John Tierney PIREP
Here's where I put mine on an RV-7A, based on others
examples, and it has worked OK. The second ANL holder
is empty, for a future backup alternator if needed. I
think I got the ANL holders with covers from West Marine.
Manifold Abs Pressure Fittings/Tubing ...bjdecker's
I used the 3 port manifold that Van's supplies and
connected all the transducers to it.
I had a custom length manifold pressure line made, and ran
it parallel to the oil pressure line along the firewall. I
fabricated a small tube to run from the VA-168 to an AN
fitting on the firewall which has a 1/8 hose barb installed
-- Tygon tubing from there connected to the Plasma III
inflight mag check results ...Flying again!
I have an RV-10 with an O-540 and 2 Slick Mags (6351 and
6350). I just had them reconditioned at AIS. During the
first flight after reinstalled and timed I did an inflight
mag check (23"/2300 rpm). The Left Mag was smooth with EGT
rises in all cylinders. The Right Mag ran very rough to the
point I went back to both, reduced power to ~18"/2150 rpm
and switched back to right mag and saw cy 1 EGT was down
over 200 deg.
Cylinder 1 Right Mag fires the bottom plug. I removed the
plug and checked the gap, resistance and cleaned it. In the
tester with pressure it fired fine. I installed this plug in
the top and put the top plug in the bottom so if the problem
moved to the Left Mag then it would show there was something
wrong with the plug.
On the next flight the Right Mag Ran smoothly with EGT rise
across the board as shown in the tables below. However, the
Left mag now ran rough but not isolated to #1 cylinder, 3
cylinders had a drop in EGT and 3 had a rise.
The plugs are Tempest UREM40Es with ~100 hours on them and
all cleaned and gapped at the condition inspection ~3 hours
The timing was checked and it had not changed. I wanted to
make sure the internal timing had not changed due to a
failure with the impulse coupling etc.
Now what? I bought a new plug to replace the original
suspect plug but doubt that would cause the rough running
and affect the other cylinders. It is puzzling that the Left
mag ran fine on its own the previous flight and the Right
mag had a misfire on #1 cyl and after swapping top and
bottom plugs, Right runs fine and left has issues with 3 of
Forgot to add that the mag check on the ground is good with
about a 70 rpm drop at 1700 rpm with Left and Right mags.
The issue is with inflight mag check.
January 21, 2021. Issue #5,261.
a contract pilot? How 'bout using me?)
Glass panel RV14A N448WP ...jerry sparks
All Dynon panel with wiring help from Stein. Fortunately
I have some great friends at KDVT that give me advice to get
it right. The autopilot is an amazing tool that fly's the
plane much better than I ever could
Worn locking Pin? ...ExtraKatana
I am a new (RV8) owner and I did my first four 3 point
landings today. The first three were noneventful. The
fourth, the tail wheel became full swivel. I did a zigzag
down the runway as I was pinning the stick in my crotch. I
did not use anywhere near full rudder as wind was down the
runway and I had a high-time tail-wheel instructor in the
back that re-affirmed it was not a hard landing. I owned a
super decathlon for 200hrs last year and I realize the 8
requires quicker, smaller foot movements, it never did this.
The owner told me (like it was a known problem and prior to
this happening) sometimes the locking pin and spring gets
gummed up. He lives on a dort/sod runway where the plane had
been for 7 years. His premonition did not take long to
manifest. Any hints or tips/tricks to keep that locking pin
from popping out so readily? Any tell-tell signs that it
needs replacement? The pin never did re-engage. Will
Leading Edge Landing Lights Installed ...Rvator97
an RV taildragger with a fused ankle?
I had my ankle fused about 3 months ago and am well on my
way to recovery. Last week I taxied my RV-8 around the ramp
and did a run-up to see if I could flex the ankle enough to
reliably steer and brake. I could, but not by much. I
definitely don't feel confident enough to fly yet; I'm going
to give my ankle another couple weeks or so to loosen up a
little more before I try that.
My question is: Has anyone else here had ankle fusion
surgery? Are you able to safely operate your taildragger,
especially during landings? Thanks.
Panel Revision 3 ...Nick
This one will be in a while. It's ready for a
GPS175 when funds permit.
Cracked Muff ...Dennis Callaghan
Add me to the list of cracked muff ends. I am at 85 hours
and pulled the cowl yesterday for other tasks and found the
forward muff end cracked in 2 places.
Canopy Opening Experience ...mike newall
A 12 canopy coming open in flight is not a big deal at
all. If it was unintentional, there is a startle factor, but
the aeroplane continues to fly stably.
During initial testing some years ago for a client, I was
increasing the speed range and it popped open. Turned out
that unbeknown to me, the client had turned the latch handle
round as he thought it was stiff ! As you may know, the
latch is asymmetric in length and what used to latch, no
The canopy floated about 6" up, so I slowed the aeroplane
down and decided what to do next.
Now, if you have ever seen comics doing "The Balloon Dance",
you realise you are short of a hand to control everything !
I could hold the canopy and the stick - I could hold the
throttle and stick, but not all three. Factor in, it was an
early model 12 with a sprung throttle, you see where my
The main thing to remember is FLY THE AEROPLANE !
In the end, got it to left base, closed and twist locked the
throttle and used stick and canopy hands and landed without
Would I deliberately open a 12 canopy in flight - no - it is
not designed to do that and if you get turbulence, a sudden
jolt or anything that compromises the canopy bubble - your
day just got really bad indeed !
The whole incident was fully reported both to our LAA and to
Vans and subsequently, changes were made to the latch system
on the 12 to include warning lights.
Food Saver cowl blister ...fl-mike
So, I needed a cowl blister for clearing the fuel servo
controls. I found some aluminum blisters on ebay, but knew
they would be dent magnets, so I bought one to use as a mold
for a fiberglass blister.
Seemed like vacuum bagging would be the way to go on this
part, but I have no vacuum bagging supplies or equipment.
(except for peel ply)
My wife was sealing up some frozen chicken cutlets in the
kitchen with her vacuum/heat sealing Food
So, I made up a Foodsaver bag, made some plastic release
sheet with my leather punch, some bleeder cloth from
polyfill sheet in the sewing supplies cabinet, put it all
together in the shop in the bag, brought it in, and....
Durned if it didn't work like a champ! Sucked that bag down
and heat sealed it, no muss, no fuss. Cut the bag open the
next morning, pulled the part, a little trimming with snips
and, there ya go.
January 20, 2021. Issue #5,260.
a contract pilot? How 'bout using me?)
My RV-4 Panel ...Flyhud
Manifold pressure sensor problem
Hi everyone. I have a strange manifold pressure sensor
indication that's just started in the last couple of
After takeoff, I reduce my manifold pressure to 25", which I
then maintain as long as possible during climb by adding
throttle (if I don't, of course, the pressure drops as I
gain altitude). However, lately, I see my manifold pressure
*rising* as I climb, even without adding throttle, which
makes no sense if things were working as they should. On my
latest flight, right after reaching 10000', wide open
throttle was showing around 26" initially, though in my
experience, it should be closer to around 20".
Over the course of 10 or so minutes, the indicated pressure
slowly reduces to what it should be reading.
When I change throttle, the indicated manifold pressure
changes quickly, and as expected, so my first thought isn't
necessarily blockage in the tube running from the engine to
the sensor. I've just seen (so far) that during a climb (and
presumably during a descent, though I haven't tested this),
the indication is unreliable until levelled off for several
minutes. Is there a vent on the sensor to outside air that
may be partially blocked? Or equivalently, is there a fixed
pressure chamber in the sensor that should be holding a
constant pressure but is leaking to ambient?
Obviously, I can just replace the sensor and I expect the
problem would go away. But I'm trying to understand what
might cause this (and if it's just possibly a partially
blocked vent hole, it may be easy enough to just clean out).
Thanks for any suggestions!
Completed RV14A N448WP 2 years ago and just returned from
Glo Paint Shop
Fuse Progress ...rockitdoc
Emp done. Fuse getting close.
Angle of attack indicators
Apologies if this has been discussed elsewhere but I
didn't see any threads on this topic.
I would like to see what others have to say on installing an
AOA indicator on their RV. Specifically, thoughts and
opinions regarding how they add to safety, and which
products you have installed or rejected and why. Ballpark
cost and ease/difficulty of installation would also be
My wings are finished except for the tips and not yet
mounted, so I'd like to run the tubing/wiring before they
are completely buttoned up and in place.
Thanks for any advice/experience/suggestions you can share.
SS Tape On RV-7 Flaps
Much thanks to Ironflight and others for their much
earlier posts on using SS tape from McMaster for this as an
alternative for this purpose, which were helpful to me at
that stage of my project.
Attached are some RV-7 flap pix as a reference for the OP.
I also used 3" tape and would repeat the caution about using
gloves or other protection against the razor sharp edges
during application, which is not a factor after the tape is
applied. In my experience it also went down easily, and if
you are into cosmetics, it can be easily polished to a high
sheen with common metal polish.
Puppy Rescue help from MSP area needed
We're about to adopt our second Ridgeback puppy from
Ridgeback Rescue US. "Harlowe" is currently being fostered
in the Minneapolis / St. Paul region and I'm hoping to
arrange a shuttle to get her to her new home. Is anyone
interested in using their RV to fly her to central Nebraska
and meet? I'm flexible and can meet at the airport of your
choosing. KLXN is about 3 RV hours for me each way, is
somewhat familiar, and has cheap fuel.
Winter weather can be challenging and flexibility is key.
Sometime over the weekends of January 29 or February 6 are
A successful mission will net a trip report with kids and
puppies, and much gratitude.
New to the forum, long intro, fuel system question
Little did I know the resources available to a new RV owner.
Amazing! I've searched high and low in the various forums
and not able to find a definitive answer to my question.
Please bare with me while I give a little back ground
leading up to my question (s).
Late in the summer of 2020 I became the proud owner of an
especially well built RV3b, ident C-GBGF and completed in
2009. I purchased the RV3 from the widow of the craftsman
that built it, her husband and builder having died in his
C-172. He was flying off the west coast of Vancouver Island,
British Columbia, gathering weather information data for
The RV3 was his third RV build. His lovely widow knew
nothing of the RV3, but after a 5 hour inspection by both
myself and a very competent Aircraft Maintenance Engineer
(AME) determined the aircraft to be exceptionally well put
together and seemingly, strictly built to Vans construction
Having zero tail wheel time when I bought the RV3,
discovered its not so easy to get transition training. Fast
forward 5 months... I finally got 1.1 hours in an RV6, with
a most excellent instructor. I think we spent a bit more of
that time doing aerobatics, rather than figuring out how to
taxi and land.
During the taxi training phase of my 1.1 hours, discovered
the RV6 was a lot more manageable than the RV3, which I had
taxied around a number of times. Upon return to home base
from my first tail wheel adventure, quickly determined that
the tail wheel assembly was pretty much worn out on the RV3.
More weeks passed, waiting for the new tail wheel assembly
to arrive and install.
Once the RV3 was good to go, intended to resume training in
the RV6 but then discovered the left starting mag was dying
in my C-150 aerobat, not to mention the transponder started
giving me grief as well. The transponder is mandatory in
order to fly to the RV6.
Yet more weeks pass and I'm itching to fly the RV, but
paranoid about breaking it. Lucky for me, some airport
friends took pity and volunteered I could use a Piper
Tri-Pacer converted to tail dragger, to carry on learning
how to manage a tail dragger.
A very brave and competent fellow jumped into the converted
Tri-pacer with me and even more bravely, gave me the left
seat with no brakes on his side. After 3 hours of flying
around and doing a bunch of landings/takeoffs he announced
that I should go fly the RV. I didn't necessarily agree with
him, but threw caution to the wind and strapped into the
little hotrod, lined up on the runway and with knees
shaking, did the most horrendous takeoff I've ever done.
I've got 900 hours total, 450 of that in a Mooney M20e and
the rest in 150's.
That first takeoff was quite an eye opener! That little
sucker has some serious get up and go and will not be nice
to you if you pick the tail up real fast. I picked the tail
up real fast and it was immediately doing a hard left... I
ended up doing a bit of the wild thing down the runway using
an awful lot of the 75' width and yep, I had a wee bit of an
audience, of course.
Luckily, the RV3 gets in the air very quickly, so managed to
get away quickly from my bad takeoff roll and the prying
eyes of the seasoned pilots watching my performance.
Happily, they didn't have their score cards handy that day.
Scoring visiting pilots is a bit of a pass time at our 2400'
runway. The Ukrainian judges as they call themselves have
score cards that only go to 7, so don't feel bad if you get
a 5 or 6.
After an hour of slow flight, some stalls and feeling the
plane out, it was time to land. During my hour of feeling
the plane out, I switched tanks after about a half hour.
Same as the Mooney, always put the boost pump on during the
switch and watch the fuel pressure. Boost pump off, watch
My first approaches were intentional overshoots, several
times. It certainly doesn't take much to execute an
overshoot in a little airplane that weighs 821 Lbs, with a
Satisfied with the overshoots ,was time to land. Sitting on
the ground, I can see pretty much nothing looking forward.
So, having memorized this sight picture before takeoff, knew
that if my butt was almost dragging on the ground and I
could see virtually nothing looking forward, I should be
touching down very gently soon. Things worked out a little
differently than I hoped. It seems that spring gear can be
pretty springy, unless you set those springs down very
gently. Apparently I wasn't gentle enough... after the
second bounce that was about the same altitude as the first,
thought things weren't going to get any better, so powered
up and went around. That little RV does a go around really
Though I still bounce somewhat, after a grand total of
twelve hours of flying the RV3, find that the airplane
manages itself just fine if the stick is held full back and
you keep it pointed straight. I've actually surprised myself
with several greasers, but attribute that more to luck than
Of course, after each flight I very carefully check and
calculate fuel consumption because I have never trusted fuel
gauges. Early in the process of monitoring the fuel burn, I
was shocked a couple of times to discover that the Port tank
had come up in level, rather than going down the expected
amount. Further, the Starboard tank would be very much lower
than expected. In my books, this is very odd and potentially
hazardous to ones health and longevity.
Shortly after taking ownership of the RV I discovered that
the lever attached to the fuel selector shaft was slightly
loose. I applied locktite to the screw that attaches the
fuel lever selector to the fuel selector shaft but still
felt a small amount of play in this assembly. Looking
closer, I could see a small amount of wear between the fuel
lever selector socket face and the corresponding profile on
the end of the fuel selector shaft. The aircraft has 840
hours on the airframe and likely the same hours on the fuel
selector. It appears to be the selector that came with the
kit, so have ordered a replacement from ACS and not nearly
as expensive as the Andair unit.
When I discovered the unusual tank levels in the RV,
suspected that the fuel valve was the culprit and some how
cross feeding. It didn't make sense that the the Port (left)
tank was always gaining level over the Starboard tank. Right
from the first flight in the RV, my habit was to always
begin flight with full tanks and always start up and run on
the right tank, switching later in flight.
After my most recent flight, filled both tanks full and
taxied back to the hanger. When I shut down, I had a pretty
big puddle of fuel under the left tank vent. I opened the
left tank cap and fuel overflowed from the tank. It finally
became clear that something seriously strange was going on
with the fuel system.
A close inspection of the fuel system revealed a return fuel
line tied in off the main fuel supply line, immediately
prior to the carburetor, . The previous owner had installed
what appears to be a recirculation line off the fuel supply
to the carburetor and is returned to the left tank only.
I am assuming such a line is installed to minimize the
chance of vapor lock and also, helps to ensure cool fuel is
being delivered to the engine.
My understanding is the previous owner may have used
mogas/car gas. In the accident investigation related to his
crash in the C-172 it was noted that there was a mix of
avgas and mogas in his aircraft and carb ice may have been a
contributing factor to the accident.
This recirculation line complicates managing fuel and at
this time, I am trying calculate the recirculation rate. So
far, I believe there is no restriction orifice in the
recirculation line, as even after 40 minutes of drawing down
the full left tank in flight and then switching to the right
tank for 30 minutes, discover on the ground that the left
tank is again full to the max.
At this time, I don't have plans to burn mogas after having
had a fright in the Aerobat when using mogas. Very hot day
in the Aerobat, climbing out over very inhospitable terrain
and the engine starts dying, seriously no fun.
Fortunately, the Aerobat has a 150hp lycoming and requires a
boost pump for this STC. The boost pump saved my bacon that
day and have shied away from mogas ever since.
Am I on the right track assuming this return line is for
vapor lock control? Can I install an isolation valve on this
return line to the left tank and open only as required? Will
shutting off this return line cause issues with the
mechanical double diaphragm fuel pump attached to the back
side of the Lycoming E2D?
Would I be better off to install a restriction orifice in
the return line (if there isn't one) which should then allow
a metered and easily measured amount of fuel recirculation?
Apologies for such a long post, just thought I'd give some
back ground before putting my question out there. Any
insights to managing my fuel in the safest manner possible,
January 19, 2021. Issue #5,259.
a contract pilot? How 'bout using me?)
My RV Weekend ...various
Trim and Flap Relays....to DIODE or NOT ..? ...Chris
I wonder if I can lay myself open to ridicule and ask my
fellow builders a really numpty question about using diodes
I'm using Vans' RV7 flap motor, Ray Allen Company(RAC) trim
switches and pitch trim motor, and wish to incorporate
servos to activate my flaps and trim motor.
I'm using AircraftExtra's servos but specific manufacturer
aside, my question is far more generic.
I am trying to instal these servos in my flap and pitch trim
circuits.....and good old Bob Nuckolls has provided the very
schematics I need...
lately been seeing some white powdery areas on the rug. Usually but not
always under the panel. Can't figure out where it's coming from. Anyone else
seen this? Hopefully it's not related to some kind of corrosion...
Mothership Shipping Update ...Jan 18 update
Oops I let the
Building my RV7I have install the extra aircraft FPS plus
system however when I was installing this system I caused a
ground inadvertently which fried the wires in the circuit
panel now I am attempting to solder those wires back
together with standard wire and soldering techniques and
wondering what your opinions would be on this matter. I have
talk with rich at aircraft extras and he seems to think if
the soldering goes well in appropriate supplier sized use
this would remedy the situation in all will be well. What
are your thoughts
Some RV-4 Love
I was still in my 20's when I built this.
Still one of my favorite photographs of SuzieQ.
Prior to my new Sensenich GA prop:
Another Vote For Clickbond ...jbb
I also have used the Clickbond cable tie mounts and Clickbond two part
methyl methacrylate adhesive, with good results, on both RV fiberglass and
They are more expensive than consumer level products, but are used in the
aerospace industry and are designed to not come loose once bonded to a
properly prepared surface. The product instructions say to prepare the
surface by scuffing and wiping with alcohol or equivalent solvent.
200KT GS Monday ...not really hard with a 31KT tailwind
January 18, 2021
. Issue #5,258.
Hope you had a nice weekend and
got to spend some time with your RV plane/project.
a contract pilot? How 'bout using me?)
My RV Weekend
...Scott Chastain RV-8
New Rudder stub spar ...Rob Carsey RV-12iS
I ordered the rudder trim tab recently just in case I needed it (it was
only $7). New KAI instructions were sent with it. I noticed a new internal
piece inside the rudder that was not part of my original rudder KAI.
Does anyone know why this piece was added (R-01211 STUB SPAR)? Is it
necessary if you want to add the trim tab? What is the risk? Is it worth
adding it after the rudder has been built?
RV-6 Project Painted ...Nelson235
Milestone: "Today I got one big step closer. Painted the fuselage."
Tracking Down Oil leak - Looking Like a Stud
Pun intended...things were getting too oily so I decided to hunt it down.
Here's what I did...
I washed down my O320-E2D really well with Aviation Simple Green and low
pressure warm water to get most of oil and grime off.
Finished wiping off any residue really well with avgas and shop paper towels
Inspected engine under UV prior to running to ensure no oil was detected and
engine was clean
Ran engine for 5 minutes
Inspected in dark hanger with UV flashlight
I possibly have a drainback tube leaking but I certainly have a cylinder
stud or two leaking. Below is a picture of the worst offender. This is only
after running for 5 minutes with a normal run-up.
You can see that the oil glows much better than I was expecting. I had read
the Aeroshell glows under UV, but the this is Phillips XC without any dye
added. In case someone wants to duplicate my process.
Im wondering what the best way to try and seal this up without pulling a
jug??? Loctite 290 or low strength 220??? Permatex Spray Sealant
Falcon Flight Formation Clinic 2021, 9-11 April 2021, KTPL
Happy 2021, Y'all! Falcon Flight Formation Team is happy to
announce our 2021 Formation clinic! This year's clinic takes place April 9
-11, 2021 in Temple, TX (KTPL). It WX gets us, we will have a BACKUP date of
April 23-25, 2021.
Where is My Filter Bypass? ...avrojockey 9A
Standard CH48110 filter is called out in the parts catalog for the -E2D,
but my engine has been equipped with a CH48103 (or equivalent) because it
has a CH48212 converter stud installed.
It appears neither one of these filters has the built-in bypass as the
Champion docs indicate only CH48108 and CH48109 have it.
I have the standard oil filter adapter pictured below...if the filter is
blocked, how is unfiltered oil bypassed to provide lubrication? The way I
understand it is the pressure will be relieved upstream like normal as the
ball will unseat more, and a cooler blockage will be relieved by the
vernatherm, but how does oil volume get the important stuff if the filter is
blocked? Just trying to understand things work on my rig.
Corrosion ...Rob Hunter
Argh, corrosion from storage in the hanger. What do I do now. Tried
alumaprep on it, but didn't seem to help as you can see.
Rudder fiberglass fit? ...kjowen RV-8
I have been tinkering with this step now for about 4 months... I
have seen the beautiful work on many -8's in this area and I am just trying
to get mine to the point that it has no gaps... Please take a look a
the current status of this assembly and any suggestions would be
Manifold pressure sensor problem ...charrois
Hi everyone. I have a strange manifold pressure sensor indication that's
just started in the last couple of flights.
After takeoff, I reduce my manifold pressure to 25", which I then maintain
as long as possible during climb by adding throttle (if I don't, of course,
the pressure drops as I gain altitude). However, lately, I see my manifold
pressure *rising* as I climb, even without adding throttle, which makes no
sense if things were working as they should. On my latest flight, right
after reaching 10000', wide open throttle was showing around 26" initially,
though in my experience, it should be closer to around 20".
Over the course of 10 or so minutes, the indicated pressure slowly reduces
to what it should be reading.
When I change throttle, the indicated manifold pressure changes quickly, and
as expected, so my first thought isn't necessarily blockage in the tube
running from the engine to the sensor. I've just seen (so far) that during a
climb (and presumably during a descent, though I haven't tested this), the
indication is unreliable until levelled off for several minutes. Is there a
vent on the sensor to outside air that may be partially blocked? Or
equivalently, is there a fixed pressure chamber in the sensor that should be
holding a constant pressure but is leaking to ambient?
Obviously, I can just replace the sensor and I expect the problem would go
away. But I'm trying to understand what might cause this (and if it's just
possibly a partially blocked vent hole, it may be easy enough to just clean
Thanks for any suggestions!
January 15, 2021. Issue #5,257.
Windy at 52F Thursday - gusting to 49 for an hour or so at nearby DTO so
said the METAR. It was down the runway, and some brave
souls were flying (not me). I did get the nice pic below
that is now my cell phone wallpaper.
Wishing you and yours a happy, safe and RV-filled weekend.
a contract pilot? How 'bout using me?)
Tractor part made into bucking bar for back riveting
Cat 3 linkage pin, the polished end diameter is 1.5
inches, weight 2.2 lbs. Works well for back riveting skins.
Thoughts on RV9A Panel
So here is my panel layout. Feed back welcomed.
I don't like where the ELT is located, but I want to get it
away from passenger who may fiddle with it in flight. Also,
I want access to change the battery. The AP is on the
left because I dont want to switch off accidentally in
flight and I dont plan to be using the power switch much.
Parking brake is under panel on left side. Thanks in
advance for your feedback.
Disappearing landing gear?
Here's an off-the-wall question for someone with human
perception experience: Is it possible to paint a tailwheel
RV's main gear so that it is less visible in flight, making
the plane look more like a retractable from the ground?
Would any of the "air superiority colors perhaps work? Is
there a different answer if the goal is to make them less
What's wrong with this picture?
At least I discovered it before it got closed in.
CAV-110 Drain Thread Engagement ...Girraf
Q: Installing the drain valves in an RV-7 and the valve
turns in very easily for the first 2 turns, then hits a wall
where it gets really hard to turn. I experienced the same
thing using the shrader valve attachment when pressure
testing the tanks, and in that case, 2-3 turns was enough to
seal the assembly. I used some boelube during pressure
testing, and now using EZ turn for the drain valve
installation. I'm concerned about damaging the threads on
the Drain flange or driving the drain too deep into causing
the flange to crack open.
Drain valve installed with EZ turn lubricant. Finger tight
was about 1 turn. Went an additional 1.5 turns with a 1/2"
crescent wrench. Showing about 3 threads on the drain valve
and I would guess about 3 engaged in the drain boss. Valve
is actuating freely. Thanks for the inputs.
HYD Lock in the 912 Rotax ...rvbuilder2002
I think Hyd lock on a 912 Rotax is an urban myth. There
is not enough volume in the tank to fill the engine enough
to cause it unless your hangar is built on the side of a
hill and not level. And a low mounted tank would reduce the
tendency for oil to be siphoned from the tank to the engine
case. If anything, the RV-12 would be considered to have a
rather high mounted tank (within the range allowed by
The document on our web site (here)
explains it pretty well. Some of the observant experts will
read it and say "The oil doesn't get pumped from the engine
back to the tank. It is pushed by positive crank case
pressure." Yea, I know that. The description was used to
explain the process in simple terms, to those that are
unfamiliar with a 912 Rotax.
Elevator Update ...tdragger1966
In the end I did remove the skin, flute and re-rivet.
Turned out pretty good but did take a long time.
Help My Next Door Neighbor's Granddaughter Find a Bone Marrow Match
if you would like to add yourself to the registry. A swab kit will be mailed to your house
(free if you're 18-44). From
the site: "Doctors request donors in the 18-44 age group over 85% of the
time. If you are between the ages of 45-60, you are welcome to continue with
your registration, but will be required to make a $100 payment to cover the
cost to join the registry."
Dear VAF Universe,
I need your help. Patsy is my next door neighbor. Her granddaughter Audrey (picture
inset below) who lives a couple of miles away was recently diagnosed with
Severe Aplastic Anemia and we're trying to help her family find a bone marrow
transplant candidate that matches her. You can text
Audrey is a sweet kid. Food for thought: 1) there are 30,000
registered accounts here and easily another 30,000 unregistered 'lurkers',
2) life is a precious thing, and 3) helping someone doesn't have to take
Here's your chance to step up and walk the walk. Spread this info
to those you think could help. Given the choice I would rather you sign up for this registry than send
in a yearly VAF donation.
Our airplanes are great. Helping a kid is better.
January 14, 2021. Issue #5,256.
a contract pilot? How 'bout using me?)
A Nice Use of
the Mothership Logo ...used with permission (cderk's
So, the wife and I are trying to get started with our
tail build, we finally have all the tools needed and have
worked on the training kits. But, I feel like we're getting
worse, not better. It's probably not that we're actually
getting worse, but rather, that I now know enough to realize
how bad we are.
But, I'm reluctant to start on the real thing due to two
1. We're still messing up the skin pretty badly every now
and then. We know why we're doing it wrong and how to not do
it, but the actual doing it right part isn't consistent yet.
2. No matter how many times we read the instructions and
review it until we think we know what to do, we still make
stupid mistakes now and then drilling out the wrong size
hole, or do things not in the best order. I think our
biggest mistake here is not marking the parts and then after
sitting them down getting confused.
I'm looking for feedback on the above, and guidance on when
to know we're read to do the real thing. It just feels like
we are going backward because even though we're probably
getting more consistent, we see the mistakes more obviously
and I feel like we are doing worse.
Adding a few examples of the horrid mistakes we're still
Ok to skip NAV
A bit struggling to choose between Garmin 225A COM and
I will install a G3X and a GNX 375. Most likely I will only
fly VFR with my 7 (even if I have Instrument rating), but it
is nice to have an IMC approach backup just in case. LPV
approaches are possible with the GNX /G3X which would do the
So, any disadvantages with skipping the VOR/ILS radio (and
that ugly antenna) and go with just the 225? But I might
have missed something?
If I go with the "COM only", I would have preferred the GTR
200B over the 225 as the 200B intercom apparently is
superior of the one the 225, but as I need a radio wit 8,33
spacing it seems the only way to go is the 225.
Duckworks to LED Project
I started to alter the opening, then got an offer I could
not pass up from a local tool builder and world renown candy
maker. He has a couple of pretty nice airplanes under
his belt too. . . riveted a doubler on with some nut
plates at the corners, then attached the AeroLED.
Q: right temp for removing plexi scratches
I have scratched my canopy and bought a Scratch off kit,
however I'm wondering if I would be better off doing this
job after it warms up... Temps are now in the 35 to 50
I know you are better served cutting the canopy when it is
warm but does the temp of the plexi make a difference in
Although we have exhaustively tested Scratch-Off compounds
at low and high temperatures, (40-50 and above 85), and have
had success, we recommend working temperatures above 65 and
less than 80. (Please note all temps are Fahrenheit). The
compounds are a culmination of years of research and are
compromised of fairly complex chemical chains - these chains
require certain temps to work in harmony. The aggregates in
them are of a diminishing return- that is they start out
aggressive, needed for defect removal, and as they are
worked they break down into microscopic "marbles" if you
will. These microspheric marbles create a "No Cut" action
helping to finish off the surface leaving little or no
swirls - depending on the experience of the user. To date -
this technology is the purest form of polishing acrylic and
polycarbonate surfaces. This process has maximized
performance between 65 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit.
(mcems) I would like to hear from anybody that has
replaced their master switch on the panel. It appears it
should be simple.
Mine doesn't want to come out . I have cleared the plastic
retainer clips that holds it in the panel,but it will not
come out of the circuit board that it plugs into. Are they
soldered in??? I was told they are not. I do not want to
force it and break the circuit board.
How did you change yours ??
Brad, on the D180 all the switches are soldered. Here is a
screenshot of the back of the PCB at the mater switch.
Just a reminder about Alodine and contact with your skin.
I've worked with Alodine for many years, but never had a
problem / exposure until yesterday------
Last night, I removed my gloves after alodining some
empennage parts (which took about 30 minutes in total). I
noticed I had a pin hole in my right glove when I saw the
tip of my thumb had turned yellow (like when you've pealed a
nice fresh and tasty minneola tangerine).
About 6-7 hours later I felt sick to my stomach and had
Since I never had a problem before and I was at home and
there was low risk, I used some cheap latex gloves. I'm sure
safety wire nicked them somewhere. Anyway, I've gone back to
military chem suit gloves. Maybe overkill, but they're made
of Viton Rubber (it says so on the cuff) which has excellent
chemical resistance anything I've encountered in aviation.
New (Old Stock) they're $2-$5 a pair at just about any Army
Surplus store. (Gloves made of Viton from a civilian
supplier can be very expensive).
Anyway - just a reminder - especially for you young guys who
want a family. And yes I know alodine sucks for the
environment and there are new products you can put some ice
in and an umbrella on the edge and drink while sitting next
to a pool. I encourage you to use them. However, I'm old and
should already be dead so I'll stay with what I've got.
Anyway, this morning I looked up the MSDS from Bondrite and
was a little shocked to read the "if skin contact"
Army, retired, 1-each
January 13, 2021. Issue #5,255.
Good RV Wx returned to my area and lots of RVs were taking advantage of
it Tuesday morning. I wanted to put a little more of a
spotlight on 'Nova RV's' PnP mission this past weekend (below).
It was in the 'What did you do this weekend...' thread
yesterday, but it's such a cool picture it needs to be the
splash for a day (IMHO). Great work there, Chris!
a contract pilot? How 'bout using me?)
PnP Mission ...Nova RV RV-14A
Pilots N Paws rescue flight with one dog and 2 cats.
Great way to get my flying fix and help out.
Fitting for Oil Pressure ...PhatRV
What is the fitting do you guys use to attach to the oil
pump outlet so the oil cooler line + oil pressure sensor
line can be attached? Can you provide the AN part number?
This is the oil port below the oil filter where I think the
oil fitting should go which allow for the connection of the
big oil line and the smaller oil pressure sensor AN fitting.
This is the oil pressure AN fitting to the sensor according
to the plan.
First Flight Reported ...on mothership
First flight of
the year! ... flat tire :-( ...Lycosaurus
Shirley and I went out for our first flight this year.
Sunday was not the best day for ceilings, however turbulence
was low and we had a nice flight.
Upon our return (CYRP), our landing was fine and we long
taxied to the taxiway, but something did not seem right.
Needed more power than usual and some strange vibration.
Stopped near the threshold of 04 so as not to impede any
other traffic and stepped out to check on the tires. Yup,
front tire is flat. Called the FBO to let them know of our
predicament and that we were going to get some tools from
our hangar and attempt to inflate the tire.
A hangar neighbor Jeff offered us a dolly in case the tire
would not inflate or remain inflated long enough for the
taxi back to the hangar. Jeff actually took the screwdriver
from my hands and eagerly started working on the wheelpant).
Thanks Jeff Whaley.
After removing the nose wheel pants, we tried tire inflation
and the indications were that there must be a large leak.
Lifted the nosewheel and strapped it to the dolly. Used the
towbar with a McGyver'd tow attachment to the trailer hitch.
A slow walking pace back to the hangar ensued while being
very attentive to cracks and ice on the ground (the
castoring rollers on the dolly are small and hard offering
I have the nosewheel at home now and will take a look in the
next few days. The rim is fine, though the tire will need
replacing due to rubbing marks. I am sure the inner tube is
toast as well. Made for an interesting day... if you take a
positive spin on it. Jeff and Matt were there to check up on
us and offer assistance. On tow back, we had ourselves a
...various chiming in
(danastoker) I have been flying with my Dynon panel, two
7" D-100/D-120EMS and the right screen is useless to me
because it cannot be viewed at an angle. I am upgrading to a
full Garmin panel this month and to help with the distance
to the right screen I am going to have the two G3X 10"
screens right next to each other with the GPS / AP / audio /
SL-30 to the right of that with a G5 to the left. I
[hopefully] have attached my proposed panel.
Any thoughts on the two panels being together like this?
Thank you for the help.
(Planecrazy232) I'm on the side of stacking the screens
next to each other. Mine has the 10" and the 7" side by side
and I find it comfortable to reach the GPS and autopilot
controls. Start up switches on the left and flight switches
in the center. I agree the two 10" screens side by side
would make the radio stack very hard to work with. If I have
a second pilot with me I can turn the 7" display into a PFD
with the touch of one place on the screen. Ipad is on the
yoke with a Ram mount.
(Nova RV) FWIW I have a 10" on the right as well,
not so much for a co-pilot but I can leave a full screen
chart or wx map up when I fly. It's not too far away to see
and interact with easily.
After reading an on-line article about aluminum tanks by
Tony Bingelis (EAA Sport Aviation-Dec. 1986) decided to go
The article mentions .040 to .050 aluminum for the tank.
This is for a permanent mounted tank.
Thinking a portable tank might get banged around some; went
with the .090. Besides an installed main tank will have
supports, this portable needs to rely on itself. Bulging
sides (hydraulic action) could flex and cause cracks in my
Since it is temporary, the extra thickness doesn't really
make a difference. Plenty strong and the aluminum is a
little easier to weld. The extra weight is a non-issue for a
Kevin, the TIG guy, did say the .090 was a perfect choice.
Had already bought it getting ready to do my own welding.
(Not very good on aluminum yet)
My tank had Zero leaks when Kevin was done TIG Welding it. I
spent two days cleaning the mill off of the aluminum, then
in about 45-minutes he TIG welded the whole thing using
January 12, 2021. Issue #5,254.
My RV Weekend ...various
I can't seem to find this anywhere on the forum so here
goes. I have a Slick Magneto model 4313 with impulse
coupling installed on the left side of my new factory
delivered Lycoming O-360. While checking out my wiring I
noticed that the P lead seems to have no resistance to
1. Do I have the correct connector for the P lead: I am
using the nut and the fiber washer on the top of the magneto
for the P lead and the shield ground is the screw marked GND.
2. Does the p lead normally have no resistance to ground?
I think the part that I can't get around is the fact that
you ground the P lead to stop the magneto from firing so why
is it seem to be grounded already.
Two Muff Setup
I have a Vetterman exhaust with 2 muffs, but I also have
a Superior cold air induction sump, so potentially
different. I plumbed my air differently than Vans
instructions because of these differences, but I'm happy
with the result and do not have cowl interference, though
some clearances are close.
Conceptually, from the intake on the ramp, I went through
the fuel injection air intake tubes to the back of the sump
to a T split, sending intake air to each muff located on
separate final exhaust pipes (output of 2-to-1), then each
muff's output goes to the separate heater vents.
Van's installation has muffs in series using heat from 2 of
4 cylinders splitting output air - my installation uses
muffs in parallel using heat from 4 of 4 cylinders splitting
NAS1804 Landing gear nuts ...Mikeyb tip
I made this offset socket to torque the nuts in the gear
towers. It's a 12 point 7/16 socket driven by a 1/4" drive
9/16 crowfoot wrench and brazed tougher. The 1" offset
allows you to reach under the vent lines. You do have to
compensate for the offset in torque setting but it's pretty
easy to use.
January 11, 2021. Issue #5,253.
West Coast Formation Clinic (WCFC 2021) in Apr has been
postponed indefinitely. ...AX-O
due to the current virus situation, the West Coast Formation
Clinic (WCFC) for 2021 has been postponed indefinitely. The
management team will re-evaluate the situation later on and
determine if a WCFC is possible in the fall.
8A1 RV-12 Meetup ...Bob Costello
Three valiant members of Van's Air Force got our RV12's
together for a photo op at 8A1 (Guntersville, Alabama)
Picture and a
tale regarding ADS-B ...Brad Benson
...Anyway, a month or two ago on a return from a trip
west, ATC put us in a nice bank right over the top of MSP at
about 14,000 and I thought "If Pete Howell were here, he'd
take a picture!". Unfortunately, taking pictures from the
cockpit of an airliner are frowned upon by many and so it
was instead stored away as an idea for later.
Last week the weather was amazing, and so I thought I'd go
take that picture in my RV. Not wanting to deal with all the
usual stuff around a class B airport, I figured out a route
that'd keep me out of the way of the airline traffic and
motored up to 12,500' - well above the 10,000' top of the
MSP class B. My plan was to loop around KMSP once taking a
bunch of pictures to sort out what I wanted later. Since it
can be a busy airspace, aside from the ADS-B traffic
displays I had departure and approach on the main and
standby frequencies (I can listen to both at the same time)
on com1 plus guard on com2.
Imagine my surprise when I hear "N164BL, Minneapolis
Depature". Completely unsolicited. I never called them, nor
was I ever required to talk to them as I never encroached on
any airspace that required two way radio comms. Obviously,
ATC had my N-number via ADS-B and I had no reason to not
talk to them, so I answered. I had recognized the
controller's voice and I think she recognized mine - it was
a pretty friendly exchange and she was just curious what I
was doing. It also helped, I think, when I explained that I
was aware of and remaining clear of the WLSTN departure
along with the BAINY, KILLR, and MUSCL arrivals.
They offered flight following for the return to KSGS; I
accepted, and that was that. Pretty uneventful otherwise.
But remember kids - the 'S' in 'ADS-B' stands for
It has been awhile since I posted an update. Long
story short after getting my engine back from the
builder there was a problem with an impulse coupler
on the left mag. This was after I had it aaaalllll
hooked back up again. Here is the thread detailing
that incident if you missed it. (pictures on second
page) I sent the mag back to my builder for
evaluation and eventually it will make it's way back
to Champion. I'll update the findings later but at
this point everything is pointing to a manufacturing
[ed. Sump on the kitchen
counter. That's one brave man, there. ;^).
Homebuilder's Week Heads Up ...vic_syracuse
Here are the links to a couple of my presentations during
the EAA Homebuilder's Week, January 26-30. One will be on
Buying a Used Homebuilt, and one will be on Condition
The one on Buying will be different than in the past, in
that I will not have any pictures. Just plan on helping you
through the decisioning process, inspection, and ownership.
The CI webinar qualifies for Wings Credit.
Machined Label on Exterior Latch...rjcthree
I paid a six pack to machine this into the handle.
Fuel pump failure within the first hours ...KayS
my 7 has now 35 hours on it and it seems my mechanical fuel
pump (Tempest AF 15473) fails. the transparent nylon tube at
the overflow outlet showed blue avgas-colour from the
beginning. i wasn't aware that this is a problem until
lately. i understand now there's only fuel at the overflow
when the lower diaphragm leaks. well, the entire project
took much longer than expected so the pump was sitting dry
for ten years, maybe that caused the problem. i do have some
1. i assume that this failure is very critical, although i
have a electrical boost pump. would you ground the aircraft
2. do i have to replace the whole thing or is there a
solution by just to replace the diaphragms? i don't know if
the diaphragms are supposed to be replaceable. el cheapo as
i am it would be nice if that's possible.
at 20 hours my skyview went down the drain and now that.
phase 1 doesn't run extremly smooth i would say.
any help is very appreciated.
January 8, 2021. Issue #5,252.
Wishing you and yours a happy, safe and RV-filled weekend.
DFW area contract pilot?)
Photo ...Lt Dan
Helps to have a friend with a good camera!
Hello! ...Monica checks in.
Just wanted to say hello and introduce myself. My name is
Monica, I live in London and have just taken on an 'almost'
finished RV14 project. I've owned a few aircraft, an RV6, a
beautiful RV7 (that I imported from SC) and two Christen
Eagles. Apart from relatively minor improvements/panel
upgrades, I'm new to building, so, a bit of a step up which
is quite scary.
Very much looking forward to being part of the RV14 build
community and will no doubt be asking for all sort of advice
and help along the way.
First Flight Mr. William Mahon
RV-7 Builder Gets Sidetracked ...in a good way.
2020 was a bad year for a lot of reasons, but one bright spot for me
personally is that over the course of the year I learned to fly helicopters.
Back in January I had never even sat in one of these contraptions, and by
Christmas I had earned my commercial helicopter pilot certificate with
instrument rating. Due to the incredible expense I don't foresee myself
doing any more helicopter flying just for recreational purposes, but this
was a satisfying goal to accomplish.
It was also a lot harder than I thought it would be! It's barely an
exaggeration to say that the only knowledge that's really transferable from
airplane flying to helicopters is the general aeronautical knowledge stuff,
and the only reusable skill is knowing how to talk on the radio.
To keep it RV-related, it's probably true that having experience with our
airplanes and their quick, powerful controls is a net plus when
transitioning to helicopters, even if there are still a lot of fixed-wing
habits to be unlearned; flying ever-slower on final and landing flat without
flaring feels very unsettling at first!
Thoughts on my
glass panel? ..Mark 9A
I'm planning my RV-14 panel. As you see in my draft
layout I have elected to use a 7" portrait G3X on the right
side. My plan is to have an adjustable tilt of anywhere from
0-30 degrees towards the pilot. If i'm flying with another
pilot it would sit flat. My experience from my last plane
was that flying from left seat, the right glass panel isn't
very easy to see and use - therefore putting a 10" panel
there is not much use to me. Now one may argue that the pax
or co-pilot would enjoy it. This layout has allowed me to
preserved panel space to the right for a glove box and an
iPad mount. Any thoughts or comments before I finalize my
Oil Too Cold ...Scott Hersha PIREP
Some of us just have really cool running engines. My
engine, like Don's runs cool. I tested my oil temp probe in
a cup of water with two other thermometers and all three
were within 3-4* of each other, and were that way all the
way from starting to heat the water to when it got to 200*,
so I'm confident my probe is OK. I'm running the standard
Vans 7 row Stewart Warner style Aero Classic oil cooler.
If the OAT is below about 35*, I'll have the shutter
completely closed, blocking all air at the front of the
cooler, and the temp might get up to 160*. During some acro
a few days ago, I saw 170*. I opened the shutter a couple
clicks (Bowden cable) and within 2-3 minutes, the temp was
down to 160, so I know the mechanism is working.
In the summer time, with no shutter installed I will
typically see 175-185*. The most I've seen on very hot days
after a long climb and some acro is 192*. I'm pretty happy
No Foam Insulation please !
I have an RV in my workshop that had a landing incident that required all
front and rear belly skins to be replaced.
This aircraft is only 3 years old and has only done 140hrs of flight time.
The builder elected to use Foam insulation throughout the aircraft including
the firewall. He did a masterful job of sealing every nook and cranny of the
The foam was a closed cell type that you can buy at any hardware store.
The foam was so well applied that it sealed in any moisture preventing the
normal evaporation of condensation. Compounding this problem was that no
skins or ribs were primed or treated with alodine. This was just bare alclad
The accelerated corrosion was heartbreaking.
Messed up motor mount threads ...Jeff Wright RV-12
Man, sometimes i just hate this plane. There have been SO many little
things and some big things too. Long shipping times, hanger rash, changes
mid construction. It just seems to go on and on.
Now I finally received my 912IS (after waiting almost 6 months) and right
off the bat there is an issue. The threads in the case for the upper left
motor mount seem bad. First I thought it was the mount. And then I thought
it was the bolt itself. So after trying another bolt I finally tried to
screw the bare bolt into the case and it only goes in for a few turns then
I'm kinda at a loss right now. Looking at the Rotax web site they direct you
to a "dealer". And of course there are none anywhere near me. At this point
I feel like taking a sledge to the whole dam project.
Any suggestions would be most appreciated.
January 7, 2021. Issue #5,251.
DFW area contract pilot?)
Refresh ...First Flight to First Flight
Old thread, but seemed like a good time to add a new post.
We have talked for some time about making the journey as our
first overnight trip and we were finally able to make it
happen. Glad to have the instrument ticket and a plane IFR
equipped. Sirius-XM and FIS-B weather was extremely useful
in making a change in fuel stops on the way home.
The Wright Brothers Monument is one of those places any
aviation enthusiast should visit. Flying into FFA in an
airplane we built was a wonderful experience.
VS Tip Camera Setup
I had to give it a shot mounting a camera with audio in
the top of the empennage... Seemed like a cool place to
If we can just get some good sunny weather here in upstate
NY to really check it out.. But it looking good..
Step 4 has you clamp the torque tube assembly to the work
surface and then lock the rudder pedals into the neutral
position. The result is that the rudder pedals are not
vertical, i.e. not perpendicular to the work surface, rather
they are canted in toward each other at ~4.5-6 degrees from
Step 6 then says "Use a square to make sure both the WD-1209
and WD-01206-1 are vertical (or perpendicular to the work
surface), then clamp the brake pedals to the rudder pedals
As described in step 4, the setup does not allow the rudder
pedals to be "vertical (or perpendicular to the work
So were we meant to unclamp the assy from the work surface
in order to align everything vertical with a square, so that
the brake and rudder pedals are parallel?
Or are the brake pedals supposed to be vertical while the
rudder pedals are canted-in, resulting in the brake pedals
not being parallel with the rudder pedals?
...or is the neutral angle of the brake pedals a matter of
Hmm, so maybe I was focusing on the wrong part of the torque
tube assembly being vertical...
Now I'm thinking that it's the two center brackets that are
supposed to be vertical and not the rudder pedals
So center brackets vertical, rudder pedals canted-in, and
brake pedals vertical.
Yeah, I think that makes sense now for the controls to be in
the neutral position
Hi everyone. Building the 14A and wondering what you're
using for the glare shield edge. Checked McMaster Carr and
can't find anything that would look good, thanks Denni
January 6, 2021. Issue #5,250.
DFW area contract pilot?)
Thanks again for goofing off
at work. I'll continue trying my hardest to bring you
a quality product. dr
Transient oil pressure spike ...rv6n6r RV-6
A few times in the last 20 hours, during taxi out on the
first flight of the day, my oil pressure has spiked briefly
over redline. If I pull the throttle all the way back it
goes below redline and if I wait a few minutes all will be
fine again including runup and throughout the flight.
Troubleshooting guides point to wrong grade of oil for the
temps or a stuck vernatherm. This has happened with OATs in
the mid 40s to low 60s. Oil is Aeroshell W-100, with
Camguard added so it shouldn't be that. I pulled the
vernatherm and all looks clean, the ball and seat are
smooth. I put a copper wire down the oil channel to the
sump, there didn't seem to be any obstructions, comes out
clean with no gunk on it. Last oil change I checked the sump
screen which was clean, as was the oil filter.
The only oddity I can find is that the vernatherm spring has
a flat worn on one coil, see picture. Also looking into the
body of the Vernatherm, there does seem to be some wear in a
spring coil pattern.
My questions are, could that flat and coil wear be
indicative? Seems like that wouldn't do it but what do I
know. Also if my oil pressure spiked that much (143PSI) for
a short period could it cause damage I don't know about?
I've had the cowl off since and there are no blown seals or
anything as far as I can tell. Other than this it continues
to run like a top. This is a Lycoming O-360-A1A with C/S
They Know About Shrinkage, Right?
Q: Elevator foam trailing edge rib tips ...stigaro
While I didn't make this mistake, I could see how it could
occur. I have access to a 11x17" printer and was able to
make a printout of the foam cutout templates from the
digital .pdf files on Van's website. After making sure the
templates were the correct size (be sure to print "Actual
Size"), I noticed that the paper plans provided by Van's
were printed about 95% scale. So, had I used the actual page
09-29 templates as supplied (or a photocopy), the ribs would
be too small. So don't assume the paper plans you receive
from Van's to have the correct page scaling. Maybe some do,
On another note, in my empennage kit, I was provided 5 PVC
foam blocks, 4 were 5.25" long and the 5th was only 4" long.
I'm not sure if this is how Van's is supplying these blocks
now or if was just unlucky, but after some repositioning, I
did manage to get all 3 ribs to fit the 4" block, but it's
pretty tight. I used a hot wire to cut these out as I'm not
sure a bandsaw would have worked.
There are a lot of reasons that a paper drawing can be out
A major one that people are not typically aware of is
shrinkage or expansion of the paper due to changes in temp
The amount of change can be significant depending on the
conditions delta compared to when it was originally printed.
That is one of the reasons for the scaling reference being
present on all drawings that are have full scale templates
printed. It should always be cross checked before using as a
template for any critical fit parts.
All of the processes described in the manual have been (test
kitchen) tested in our shop, so I can assure you that the
foam cuts very nicely on a band saw, assuming it is
performing reasonably (no weird tracking on the blade,
UV Dye Leak Test ...Freemasm
Fuel Lube (now called EZ turn) on the gas cap O rings for
the leak test. You'll be needing it at some point for other
applications anyway. A great product.
Different note: I leak tested mine with UV dye added to
ethanol free car gas before the back plate was installed and
again afterward. There's no mistaking a leak or it origin.
Didn't have any real ones, thank goodness. Be warned, the
fuel will wick along the skins. In the photo, it did so to
the unriveted backplate holes. Darn near *&^$ myself before
I realized what had happened. Good luck.
Quandary with elevator tips--what would you do?
Recently purchased a nearly complete RV-10 tail kit and
started work on Section 11. Started with bolting the h-stab
to the work bench, setting rod end bearings and attaching
the elevators. Both elevator tips interfered with the
outboard ribs/skin of the h-stab. Prior builder never got
this far so likely never noticed. After much head scratching
and inspection it appears they are not straight but
progressively "toe in" towards the stab (see attachments).
Tried adjusting the rod end bearings but didn't provide
enough relief. Asked Van's but they seemed perplexed. Have
an EAA Tech Counselor coming this weekend but wanted to get
some more opinions.
There's not enough edge distance to simply trim the
elevators so I *think* the best solution is to drill out all
the rivets in the counterweight skins, try to straighten the
ribs while still riveted to the rest of the elevator and
attach a new skin (assuming the holes will no longer align).
How would you folks address this
Door latch pin plates ...rdamazio RV-10
On page 45-17, the plans have you fabricate and install the
fwd/aft latch pin plates around the pins. I'm wondering: are
those still necessary if using the McMaster seal and the
Planearound pin blocks (which are larger/fill the gap
properly)? I don't really understand their purpose, so it's
hard to tell.
January 5, 2021. Issue #5,249.
DFW area contract pilot?)
Vlad's Ring In the New Year Flights...many pics
Van's Aircraft - Temporary Shipping Dept Closure Through January 15th
"Due to a recent, unfortunate COVID-19 exposure event, we
have sent our parts and hardware shipping team home for a
14-day quarantine period. That means we have only a couple
of people in place to try to support a workload that is
normally staffed by more than 10 individuals.
As a result, our shipping department is currently considered
to be closed until January 15th, with the exception of
bonified emergency shipments. If you have an aircraft
stranded on the ground or another similarly legitimate
emergency need, we will do the very best we can to help you
out. Note that this closure primarily affects shipments of
RV parts, accessories, and hardware. We will continue to
ship RV kits (larger crated items), which are packed and
managed by a different team. If we discover cases where
certain kit-related items cannot be included we will
backorder those individual items, if and when necessary, and
ship them to you when available.
Note that during this period our shipping team will not be
able to answer their phone. Instead, if you have an urgent
need, please email firstname.lastname@example.org and include
your order number and other specifics in your email.
We will continue to take web and phone orders during this
time, but be aware that we will not be able to ship
non-priority orders on our normal schedule. From a practical
perspective, for the time being we will not be able to
accurately quote shipping timeframes for orders affected by
this closure delay. We're working to partially staff the
department during this period, but will not be able to
achieve the same throughput until our staff returns. At that
time, the team will have a backlog of shipments to get out
and we will, of course, work hard to make that happen as
quickly as we are able.
Please understand that this is a complicated time for us
all, and especially difficult for the people who are working
here to try to keep things running. We ask that you please
be patient and considerate in dealing with our staff, as
they're all under a lot of pressure right now to keep things
afloat and moving.
We truly appreciate you and will do the very best we can,
given the unusual circumstances. Thanks in advance for your
support and understanding. We'll get through this together."
- The Van's Aircraft team
Trip to Grandma's ...AV8ER RV-10
Los Angeles KWHP to Dallas T31
Loaded up the family and a few bags (the RV-10 is a bottom
less pit when loading bags) to start the trek home from
RV-8 Status Picst ...D Weisgerber (Michigan)
New Years Day Flight ...Erimo (France)
CAVU from 22,000 Miles Up. ...so says GOES-East.
Lot of RVating in Texas Monday as you might suspect.
Light winds and 55F. A little band of snow out west
still on the ground from a few days back, but that's melting
fast. Western CO looks pretty snowy. One of the
nicer days in TX here in awhile.
Dense cool air and sharp horizons. Many RVs in the
sky. Good times.
Installation for Experimental Aircraft Course - January
27-29, 2021 ...Brad at Garmin
Once again the Aircraft Electronics Association will be
hosting an Avionics Installation for Experimental Aircraft
Course on January 27-29, 2021. The class will take place at
the AEA headquarters in Lee's Summit, MO (Kansas City
suburb). For complete details and registration information,
please visit the AEA Course Website.
This has been a popular training opportunity that includes
hands-on wiring and avionics installation fundamentals,
heavily focused on the Garmin G3X Touch system. Many VAF
members have attended this course in the past! It is a 3-day
course at a registration cost of $499. There are a limited
number of spots available and space fills quick!
*COVID guidelines and social distancing measures will be in
place for the class/facility.*
Let us know if you have any questions!
January 4, 2021. Issue #5,248.
Hope you had a nice weekend and got to spend quality time with
your RV. And so starts another year -
many RV flights in the books starting day one (below). On a
milestone note, the site here should get its 30,000th registered
forum account today or tomorrow. Some portion of that
have moved on to other hobbies or passed on, but that's the
nature of the gig. Nice round number, though!
I even got in a little .5 flight around the area Sunday in the RV!
A little cross-windy here, but no clouds and a sharp horizon.
Have a great week!
DFW area contract pilot?)
New Years Flights - add your flight ...Dvalcik gets it
Thought I would start off a thread for first flights for
2021. Hope weather is better where you are but I did get to
sneak off for a 50 min flight. 29 degrees and gloomy in the
My trip to Branson MO ...bhester
Last weekend I did a little trip to Branson, MO. I
updated my website with the trip report, nothing crazy just
a nice little trip, check it out! Near the bottom of the
page under Dec 2020.
2020 Eagles Nest Christmas Picture
Wisconsin Eagles Nest project added its 2020 Bah Humbug
Grinch picture to its historical Christmas pictures of past.
Sometimes you are to busy on framing the picture and you
don't notice the reflection in the background. I love the
reflection of our third plane "F3 Tercel" and our American
Flag in the background.
Fit: Milestones=Motivation ...ryan RV-7
Trying to get as much done in my home garage on my RV7
project before I need to worry about moving to a hangar. I
have some great experienced helpers close by that made this
a very easy process yesterday morning.
I'll do all the work I can with the wings on, then remove
them for later permanent install at the airport.
Next steps after the wings will be to permanently mount the
tail pieces, then install the gear and hang the engine, all
in the home garage.
Safety Briefing (Jan/Feb)
When there's no room for Clecos ...Freemasm
Sorry if something similar was previously submitted. It's
new to me (original thought even) Sometimes, clecos get in
the way; think match marking butt splice edges when skins
intentionally left "long" for fit-up.These super cheap pull
rivets work well. All aluminum including the stem so they
drill out super easy when done. The "dome" heads pull pretty
flat so their probably the only ones needed. Certainly worth
having a stash for build circumstances most haven't
encountered yet. It certainly cut down the iterations
required with making a tight butt joint. Just a thought.
Best of luck.
Oregon Coast / public benefit flying ...Randall
Feature on the North Coast Land Conservancy's website highlighting my
flying for that organization and LightHawk... nice to be able to do some
"good works" with my plane
System Schematic Porn
In my quest to be the nerdiest sim rat on earth, I
spent a few hours over the weekend gathering screen grabs from various AFM
and POH manuals for my Phenom side gig. Grabbed 'em, cropped 'em and hosted in a private
SmugMug folder so I can re-arrange and group them in the order I want
(Hydraulics, Electrics, System Logic, etc). Checked the box to be able
to view offline. Auto-populates to my iPhone and iPad.
So the RV tie in......I'm thinking I can compile something similar for all of the
schematics relevant my RV-6. Avionics, P-mags, ELT, govenor, etc. There are several dozen nicely
illustrated logic schematics and more that might be useful to have in a
single folder in my pocket at all times. I'll let you know if it pans
out. A small grab of some of the 60+ illustrations I built up
for the Phenom below...
Anyone prepping for initial or recurrent might find this appealing.