Hope you had a nice weekend. I'm still in King Air school with very limited free time. Apologies.
v/r,dr

VAF POSTS & RV NEWS THAT CAUGHT MY EYE.....dr:
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When your RVator pals answer your 'mayday'
"You've got your friends and you've got your aviation friends," as former RVator Bernie Ockuly is fond of saying. No fewer than 5 RVators from around the Twin Cities responded to my "mayday" call this week as efforts failde to get the hinge bolt to engage with the nutplate on the right bearing hinge bracket of the fuselage on the RV-12iS. Yesterday I pulled it back, took off the counterbalance arm and tried to recreate the problem by trying to finger-tighten the bolt and I could feel it continually disengage from the threads. So I used a nutdriver with a socket to apply enough pressure to get the bolt to engage and then repeated it several times to be sure everything had been cleaned out and then tried to finger tighten again and it engaged fine. Oddly enough, I'd one this days ago too and while the bolt engaged numerous times, I struck out when trying to get it fastened when mounting the stabilator.
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What did you do with your RV this weekend (Feb 3-4, 2024)?


Sunset Over the Mississippi...Pete
The lowish clouds cleared just before sunset, but left a haze layer that was interesting to capture. 5GPH, loafing along at 130kts, not a ripple in the smooth air, snapping pictures near Hastings, MN.
What a great night!
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Pushrod Contacts Shroud Tube ...DanH
The rest of the story...
Apparently the pushrod-to-shroud tube contact (photo first post) is not unusual with the first generation Superior rollers. An engine shop buddy had three kit engines do the same thing. To get happy they machined the cases to accept 2nd generation roller lifters. Here the owner did not want that expense.
Measurements said -28 pushrods (shortest available without custom machining) would push dry tappet clearance out past 0.165", with some just under 0.190". The max for the 1st gen lifters, as Rocket Bob noted earlier, is 0.210". The idea is to get the hydraulic unit extended as far a practical to improve the geometry. Bill Ross ran it past the engineering department. They agreed it might work, so I gave it a try.
An absolute answer will require run time. However, visual inspection seems to show enough clearance to work...maybe We'll see.
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RV-12is Pre-buy...jcl777 PIREP
This is lengthy but worth reading. If you get down my way (TX42), will be glad to chat and go for a flight. If you'd like to talk by phone let me know.
Be very certain the airworthiness certificate is for an E-LSA, not E-AB. Ask me how I know. I had to get that fixed. My FSDO was extremely helpful making that happen. Turns out that even though I had a certificate, the DAR had *never filed the paperwork*, and the cert was incorrect. My FSDO contact had to chase down the DAR and was beyond helpful.
Make sure you see a transponder inspection in the logbook. I showed up to pick up the plane and one wasn't done. It got done on the field before I left.
Make sure you get the plans for *that* aircraft *at the time you pick it up*.
Take off the cowling and inspect for any fluid leaks. While you're there, check for completion of the SB for exhaust flat springs.
Check clearance of exhaust pipe to cowling.
(continue at link)


Request for pics of tidied-up wiring for installed PH Aviation Flap motor
I'm not using the WH-00125 harness. I used a few clic bond mounts to secure the wire and used a Molex plug for the connection. Probably could shorten the wires a bit.
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Check it out, my under wing taxi camera went live :)
I just finished pulling all the wiring in the wings and while I still have to connect everything at the wing tips, I did have enough time to ops check the underwing forward facing camera. Why a forward facing camera you ask? because with some taildraggers it's a hassle to taxi because you can't see over the nose very well. Since the G3X screens will accept a conventional video input it was really simple to install a cheap automotive backup camera.
If you have a screen that accepts video input, you can be the first kid on your block to have yet another kinda cool gadget of questionable value for the low low price of $30.
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Installing rebuilt carb
I’m installing a rebuilt carb on my o-320.
I’ve done a search and found torque setting for the parts on the carb but I’m looking for the torque settings for the nuts that hold the carb to the engine?
Also curious if there is any thread locker used for these nuts ? Should the washers under the nuts be replaced?
There are also 4 bolts that hold the plate that forms the top of the FAB on to the carb. These are safety wired in my current installation. Are there specific torque values for these?
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CHT’s on cyl #3&4 problems during the climb
I have an RV3 and for a long time my CHT’s on cyl #3&4 have been problematic in the climb reaching 415-420 range. Once in cruise all the cylinders level out within 5-7 deg of each other around 380. I’ve leveled out to get the temps down and then climb again. Even at an airspeed in the 140 kt range climbing at 700-1000 fpm will increase cyl 3&4 into the 410 plus range. I even have pulled back the power 2450-2500 rpm to 2250-2300 range. The baffling looks to be pretty tight when I checked close to 2 yrs ago using a light behind the rear baffle an a borescope through the front inlets on cyl 1&2. I can understand if the airspeed on takeoff is around 100kts, but after leveling off cruising at 155-160 kts and climbing at 140kts to see cyl 3&4 increase to 410 doesn’t seem right. Currently I have the air to my oil cooler shut down just to get oil temp above 170 deg so no air being robbed from there. My concern is cylinders 3&4 are going to need to be overhauled before 1000 hrs. I currently have 325 hrs of tach time


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